2012 Fuel pump failure (Resolved)

I just did my fuel pump today on my 2010 Double Short
when you tighten the ring your supposed to line up a marked rib on the ring with a dot on the tank tighten it two turns and then continue to tighten it until the mark ends up between the two arrows on the tank
its actually pretty flippin tight!!
also your supposed to replace the ring and gasket with new according to Toyota
I reused and it doesnt seem to be leaking yet but I have only gone for a quick rip
I have 240000 KMS and it and run it until the light comes on everytime before I gas up
I always only use Cheveron 94
Did you pull your Bumper to remove the bed?

 

I did not pull my bumper to do it. If you have a few guys with you it makes removing the bed pretty easy. As for the fuel pump seal all I did was apply the silicone paste to it, press the fuel pump assembly down after I lined up the notch to its housing location and hold it while I tightened the ring. After it was tight enough then I grabbed a hammer and a chisel (screwdriver works as a substitute) and just tighten til it went just past one of the integrated notches on the fuel pump assembly top hat. I let it be after that. Smoke tested it for leaks and none were found. Has been bone dry ever since with zero problems.

 

What does the source have to do with the facts presented? ALL of the stories in the previous post are real, do you deny it? Please do research before questioning the validity of what unions do to some companies in America. I'll ask you also: do you need some teacher's unions examples? Crickets......

 

As another update to what seems to be a never ending saga, my current working fuel pump is now taking its sweet time to prime the system while it pumps. It seems to be pronounced when the heat outside is above 80*. I have been sitting at the key turning the engine over for longer then it should ever take to start. I am not doing this again and am damn sure not going to chance myself being stranded like I was several weeks ago. I mosied on over to Summit Racing and ordered a

$133 50-1200 E85 In-Tank Fuel Pump, Black, 4.055 x 1.535 x 1.535"es

50-1200 green top AEM 320lph fuel pump (It's 100% E85 and standard fuel compatible and is good for any additional power adders you could ever throw on this truck.). Luckily I have pulling the pump assembly out from above the tank down to a science and this time It should take me no more then an hour or hour and a half to replace the current close to failing pump. I should get the pump either tomorrow or the next day.

 

As a final follow up to what seemed to be like an extended nightmare, I received the new AEM fuel pump one day after I ordered it from Summit Racing. I replaced it the following day due to schedule issues. WOW. What a pump. Got all of my start ability back and fixed extended cranking issues. As a small side effect, the fact that this pump rocks SO much, that it actually also gave 5th gear some unexpected extra balls. I noticed not only what so far seems like an increase in overall miles per tank but also no longer have to drop from 5th to 4th during steeper grade climbs on the highway on my way home and in general as well. The truck seemed to pick up some extra pep which is highly appreciated. I'm really enjoying the hell out of this new pump. This thing just makes the truck everything it ever was once again and more.

Now this time, case IS officially closed.

 

Excellent, you were very patient.

 

bout to swap the stock pump with a walbro 255, and have been searching for a while for a thread about changing the pumps out. do you have any pics or a place you found with a write up?

 

If anything like first gens, it's easier to lift the bed. Takes about 20 minutes to loosen the bolts.

Once box front is propped up, the sending in it and FP can be removed from top of tank.

A couple strong guys can take box off completely or a couple ratchet straps and a tree limb can lift the front of the box.