Crank Pulley Bolt Removal - Easy Way!

I'm at my wits end trying to get this bolt off so I can put on the new crank pulley. I tried the method in the OP by ordering the pulley holder and buying a breaker bar and 22mm socket to use with my floor jack, but both M8x1.25 bolts broke off in the threads of the crank pulley (which is another issue I will need to take care of). My Kobalt impact gun (which came with my compressor) says it will output 350 ft-lb of torque, but the bolt won't budge. I bought another Kobalt gun this morning from Lowes that says it will do 700 ft-lb, so going to try that tonight.

If that doesn't work, the only option I can see is bumping the engine, but where does the breaker bar sit against the frame? Driver or passenger side? Top or bottom side of the frame?

Thanks!

 

Bump start was pretty easy. Righty tighty-lefty loosey

 

Hate to ask but where did you put the breaker bar? Does it go on the driver or passenger side? Above or below frame?

 

I did underneath passenger side frame

 

Thank you! I was about to break out my tripod and put a camera on it just to figure out which way the engine turned

 

The bump start worked! Did everyone else's pulley slide right off? I bought a pulley removal tool set but this thing came right off the shaft by hand.

 

Im gonna try my mac mini 1/2 on this bolt tonight as i finally got the parts. But i can tell you that it should slide right off just as you stated, torquing on the other hand may be tough. Gonna try the chain bolts to frame rail trick, if that doesnt work im shit ouutta luck i think

 

Bump start worked awesome for myself. Just sounds gnarly for a second when you do it. With manual trans putting it in gear worked for tightening.

 

did you do anything about the fuel piece to make sure the eng didn't turn over?

 

Pulled fuel pump relay, turned over motor until fuel lines depressurized and then pulled both ignition fuses.

 

My mini 1/2 mac gun took it off in one button press no problem (645 ft lbs of off power) when i Torqued the bolt down all I did was have a co worker put a flat head screwdriver through one of the opening's in the pulley and push against the engine. He held with both hands and click, Did 205 ft lbs no problem on that thing.



Whoring out new tools

 

I unplugged each coil and removed the fuel pump relay.

 

Nice. As part of this rebuild I am doing, I had the radiator and a/c condenser removed so I had plenty of access to the front of the engine. For tightening, I ended up using my Harbor Freight electric impact (which says it will torque to 230) and bumped it a few times. Might do it a couple more times before it all goes back together.

 

Having the radiator out makes a huge difference! But yah i was just about to put the gun back on it and give it some ugga ugga's because the bolt and pulley holder shit was pissing me off a little

 

Thanks for the write up

 

I also had to removed the crank shaft pulley. I tried a half inch impact and it didnt have enough ummpgh.. So I did the ole breakerbar on the frame trick. Worked like a champ. On the 2005+ tacoma's. You need to put the bar on the top of the drivers side of the frame, or the bottom of the passenger side of the frame. I actually used a breaker bar, and a pipe slid through the handle.

 

To the next guy that removes this bolt or plans on replacing the front main seal. This may be something you may want to do if you hate oil leaks.

I have the distinct pleasure to have two very good friends that have 'gotten across the finish line' more than once - one was responsible for a program that made Toyota Trucks famous and another that is a NHRA car builder and spent 20 years racing fire breathing dragons. Their collective advice was:

If replacing the seal

Shorten the spring on the main seal by 4-6 turns - once you take the spring off, you can 'unscrew' the spring and with some flush cuts and shorten the spring.​

Very carefully clean the edge of the inner most edge of the lip of the seal with acetone and put a very small bead of Ultra Grey RTV on the circumference - just enough to ensure the spring does not fall off on installation.

Clean every mating surfaces of the mating surface where the seal will go, the bolt, the stub end of the crank, the harmonic balancer (and SC pulley if equipped) and the washer.

Thinly coat the the outside diameter of the seal (where it mates to the engine) - install the seal.

Then thinly coat the stub end of the crank, the inside mating surface of the harmonic balancer (inside the keyway), the mating surface and ID of the SC pulley (you are sealing between the two pulleys so that it won't weep), the shoulder of the bolt and the inside surface where it will mate to the washer (keep the threads free of RTV), the engine side of the washer and assemble it all back together.

This should keep from having a weeping leak over time.

 

Will 50mm bolts work? Anything over that has a shank on it at my hardware store?

 

Just buy a crank puller or see if you can rent one at autozone

 

My local autozone did have one. They had to order it, I just picked up.