HELP!! 2013 ZOMBIE TRUCK...3 DEAD BATTERIES...Electrical nightmare

Looking for even any sort of ideas on this...

I have a 2013 DCSB 4x4, 65K miles, no mods other than wheels/tires. Regular 5K maintenance.

4 weeks ago I noticed it was beginning to have trouble cranking...and after a few days I woke up to a completely dead battery. Jumped, took it straight to the dealer, asked them to do a complete check to find the source, to which they spent all day and just said it needed a new battery...GREAT!...not so much.

Two days later all of a sudden the alarm remote stops working, then the next morning, battery completely dead! Jumped, then back to the dealer, this time they claim "we must have given you a bad battery, you're good to go buddy!"...I say there is no way and ask them to look into the alarm remote issue, to which they said "our system shows you're truck doesn't come with a remote key"...I left and two days later third battery is now dead, and i've lost all respect for that dealer.

In the midst of all this I noticed a few more things, if I turn the car off with the a/c running, the a/c keeps running, lights and all, until I turn the controls off. Also, the "P" park indicator remains illuminated with ignition off, keys out, doors locked. ALSO, when I switched the day time running lights on (orange lamps in headlights) the blinker lights are on as well, with the car off??? WTF is going on???

I took it to a local shop with no luck, in fact that spawned the latest problem, the A/C won't blow cold anymore.

So in all this is what I'm looking at:

- Trouble cranking
- 3 Dead batteries
- Alarm remote not working, tried new batteries
- A/C Keeps running
- "p" park light stays on
- Running lights also turns on blinkers
- A/C blowing cold

I'm going to attempt a parasitic draw test tomorrow, but this seems beyond just a draw, possibly software or shorted circuts, etc...

Appreciate any help!!

 

one possibility is the one or more of the diodes in the alternator are bad.

 

Yes, I think I'll look into that too, was reading those could be an issue

 

No if the diode trio is toast it won't allow the current to change from AC to DC. This would only correct a dead battery issue and there's more going on then that . I'm thinking ecu with a draw some where. Do you have any buddy's with the same truck if so maybe try swapping ECUs to see if this corrects the problem. Then test for draws and see how much amps your alternator is putting out.

Think about the computer that controls all your issues

 

Someone messed up your alarm install. All the things that you are mentioning are things that are regulated under the steering column. If the alarm system is drawing power that would explain the dead batteries. Do you have any after market alarm? stereo? maybe had your vehicle submerged in water recently? I would peak under there to make sure that everything is connected and all the grounds are tight. This is assuming the battery terminals, alternator, and such is all in order (charging at the right levels will ensure this). Are you the original owner?

 

maybe have autozone or batteries plus test out your electrical system for you.

 

i would look at the alarm install

 

Alarm install / ignition switch. When stuff stays on when the key is off, wouldn't it make sense to start there?

I've ripped more alarms out of vehicles with electrical issues than I can remember. When is the last time you heard an alarm going off and you ran to help? Oh, you just ignored it too? Well, that shows pretty much how useful they are.

 

The guys are right, a bad diode sometimes will allow current to flow from the battery to ground............via the alternator. Get a v.o.m. and check it.

 

Alternator, if your battery doesn't keep a charge always go there first

 

Disconnect the alarm from the the 12 volt source and see if anything changes

 

Certainly sounds like a parasitic draw to me. I don't have time to look at it myself right now, but i would be looking at a wiring diagram and finding if there is a common power source for the things you mention staying on are on a shared circuit. it almost sounds like a relay stuck or possibly a module not powering down for some reason. As other people have mentioned, ditch the aftermarket alarm and put everything back to stock to start.

 

This this right here.

When the alarm went in the ignition wiring was messed up.

 

Thanks everyone for the comments...

UPDATE: Did a parasitic draw test tonight and long story short, reversed that issue and a couple others. No idea how but here's what happened.

Battery checked out, 12.5V key off and running was 13.99V so alternator is working.

Draw test showed that 1.35a, so something is pulling power. I started pulling and found the ECU-B, IG1 No. 2, IG1, and 4wd, circuits were all drawing about .2a each. Still was a bit inconclusive so I decided to close things up. As I was closing the fuse box in the engine compartment, I heard a clicking sound, pulled the cover off again and hooked up the multimeter again...started pushing the edges of the box around and checking the harnesses and CLICK, draw disappears! Do it a couple more times and no more clicking...bad connection or ground??? So I look in the dash and all the light indicator problems are gone as well...and to top it off my (factory) alarm remote just starts working again...although it is doing a couple strange things so I think it needs to be reprogrammed.

I'm leaving the battery connected overnight and drive it tomorrow to see how it goes. Only sticking point is the A/C is still not blowing cold...the hunt continues.

 

Check to see if the compressor clutch is engaging when the AC is turned on. If the answer is no then you could have a F134a coolant leak. The clutch is interlocked with a low pressure switch.

 

It is my understanding that you have to wait 1/2 hour when doing the parasitict draw. I was told that it takes this long for all of the modules to shut down to get an accurate reading. There should be enough harness to where you can pull the fuse relay board out of the mounting box and twist it in your hands to see if that makes it come and go... there could be an internal issue inside the board.

 

My 2013 with 49,000 just starting not cranking and then it would start it happened a few times and auto zone said I needed a new battery, then they said it was the alternator went to my own mechanic
and he said both were fine probably ignition switch which was also replaced on my 2002 tacoma after many miles I am watching this to see what happens before I do
anything else.

 

there is a post titled "Why am I burning up BCM's" in this forum...

 

Dunno if I've honestly seen a failed alt in a Toyota that didn't have a battery light on the dash