new to lifts need help

hi to all

i know this has been talked about.
im new to the truck side of lifts. i use to have a 2000 jeep tj. that i lifted myself. from searching the forums theres a big difference. ie do i real need to get new a arms or dont i

i have a 2017 tacoma trd off road double cab. iam looking to do a small lift.
i dont do much off roading. i do get plenty of snow. i would like something that i dont have to put in a sye slip yoke eliminator in. im not planning on doing any tire upgrades.

ive been looking at the rough country 3 inch lift.
im not sure about the block for the rear.
is it better to get an added leaf spring.
http://www.roughcountry.com/toyota-suspension-lift-kit-745c.html

any information would be great
thanks for your time

 

This is not meant as a discouragement to lifting your vehicle. Please note: this is just to inform you.

If you are not willing to spend thousands of dollars, I don't recommend that you mess with your suspension's ride height.

Here is the scoop. If you change your ride height, you need to fix all of the suspension and driveline geometry you just threw out of whack. Non-negotiable.

Let's start with the front... Raising the front requires you to correct the roll center, camber gain, bump steer, Ackerman steering, and then an front end alignment. The first 4 cost a lot of money. Don't forget: if you have a 4wd, then you need to correct the driveline geometry you just messed up. Again, money.

Now for the rear... Raising the rear cause less trouble than the front, but you need to be diligent none the less. The most important thing you need to correct is driveline geometry. With a 2 piece driveshaft, there are a lot of angles to be mindful off. These must be corrected when lifting a vehicle. Roll center needs to be considered as well, but this is very minor. Last, a front end alignment to correct the faster you just through out. Finally, you need to test for vibrations in the driveline and correct as needed.

Failing to correct the geometry after a lift results in a realization that you paid money to make your vehicle worse. Though, to be fair, it may look a little nicer.

 

Haha too funny.

OP if you stay under 3" you don't have to do anything mentioned above, except maybe a new alingnment. Your driveline angles are ok up to 3" safer around 2". When you start to get crazy with long travel kits and spring under conversions then you need to change some other things.

You can look into basic OME kits which give around 2-3" of lift for around $1200. King also makes direct bolt on OEM replacements.

Better suspensions cost more. Popular brands are King, Icon, OME, Toytec etc.

I recommend replacing the driver side needle bearing from ECGS as you may get vibrations after lifting. The stock needle bearing is weak. UCA are not required but recommended for certain lifts as it will help with alignments and articulation. Keep researching until you find what you need.

I DO NOT recommend spacer and block lifts.

PM Marie at @HeadStrong Off-Road

 

I mirror this! OME Nitrocharger is a great and well loved kit. you could do the 887 coils and not have to worry about UCAs. If you want to spend some change, or can, look at icon/king/fox (in no particular order) but also don't skip over the OME BP-51, may bueno

 

Here is something that may help. I have to say that Marie from Headstrong off-road is a great source for info.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...2016-tacoma-presented-by-toytec-lifts.395798/

 

@HeadStrong Off-Road FTW!

Talk to Marie. She won't let you buy a pos lift.