Subway4X3 Shameless Copycat Build

I was asking for a friend

 

Tell him put the tires on. If they rub, then cut. I think he can handle a grinder.

 

he didnt want to cut

 

You have a friend?

He's a pussy

 

You are getting nastier as you age....

 

Wait'll I turn 60

 

thanks for the info

I can certainly handle a grinder. just don't want to cut up my truck for tires.

nope, not gonna do it

well aren't you a peach

 

here is a Speedway Blue cap for you!

https://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/6179309030.html

 

and here is another one

https://buffalo.craigslist.org/pts/6168556297.html

 

David- anyone you know that can take a look at this cap for me?

 

@Sandman614 ?

 

I have been planning to do the rear brakes for the past several months. Too late! The the rear brakes started to grind last week.

The passenger side shoes were worn to the base metal and the drum was completely scoured and grooved. One of the shoe hold down pins broke from excess corrosion and stuff imploded inside the drums.



Got the spring hardware kit since the entire rear brake assembly was 13 years old and was never, ever serviced.


Upon further inspection, the wheel cylinder boots were mildly torn, so I changed the wheel cylinders as well.


Then I noticed the steel lip of the backing plate was all bent out of shape. I probably fcked this up while trying to manhandle the drum off of the backing plate. Thanks to @stairgod for guiding me on how to back down brake shoes by using the adjusting star wheel from behind the brake assembly. The drum came out quite easily after making that adjustment.


Couldn't hammer away at the bent metal because of limited clearance, so I used a pair of vice grips to slowly get these metal lips back to a reasonable semblance of straight. Tested for drum clearance prior to installing the shoes and springs. Success. No rubbing!


Passenger side done after 5 hours.


Drivers side took 1.5 hours. I raced a turtle crossing the road in front of my property. He still beat me.


Drums immediately started to rust, so pulled them off the next day, prepped and painted with a can of BBQ paint I had handy.

 

After a long weekend of wheeling at the Toyota Takeover at Rausch Creek off-road Park and getting stuck in the pretty muddy mucky stuff on day one, I knew I had to clean the winch line of abrasive grit within the fibers.


Freespool the line into bucket, add water and a tiny bit of car wash detergent, swish around, dump water. Lots of dirt and grit. Repeated 5 times until water ran clear.


Hang to dry, then re-spool under tension.

 

Previous alignment numbers were 3.6 Caster, 0 camber, 0 toe. Readjusted the locator plates on the SPC Light Racing upper control arm ball joint. Now is 2.6 Caster, 0 camber and toe.

 

any feedback now after coming down on the castor??
I have zero zero and 3.5 now but was thinking of bringing it down just like you have as well.

 

Why did you reduce the caster? It was too stabke at highway speed and you missed the twitchiness?

 

Steering felt heavy at 3.6 Caster.
At 2.6 it doesn't feel twitchy at all. Feels like how the car drove for its first 12 years of life, when the Caster has always been 2.5 ish.

I think factory spec is 1-2.5 Caster.

 

Finally installed my "pre-owned" Mobtown Offroad Tailgate Reinforcement Plate and Cap. Had to bring it down to bare metal, primed with self-etching primer and rattle canned with Rustoleum Bed Liner.

Pulled the plastic plugs.


Drilled out the square holes to make 13/32" round holes.


Painted exposed raw edges with metal primer to prevent rust.


Installed 1/4"-20 Nutserts



Finished installation with 1/4"-20 stainless steel button head bolts and SS washers.

 

While the tailgate was open ^^^, I lubed the latches with a teflon based dry lube.

 

Gusseted spindles:

Welding work performed by @Sub-Zero , with assistance from yours truly.

Used the smoker grill to pre-heat and post-slow cool down the spindles:


Welding the gussets:


Prepped and painted with high heat enamel: