lBJ bolt threads stripped, now what?

(Updated on post 19)

so, I'm overhauling/upgrading my front suspention with mid travel Kings, and total chaos UCAs, everthing is going relatively well, I get everything back together, and I torquing everything down. I'm doing the lower ball joint bolts that hold the Bj to the spindle and one of themstrips out.

Not the bolt, the spindle threads!

I wasn't even turning it very had and all of a sudden it starts getting easy to turn. Too easy.

So just wondering about my options here. Anyone think a thread plug is a good idea, or should I just replace the whole spindle?

 

I would replace

 

Yeah, def leaning that direction...

Probably go oem for this part, unless anyone knows of a good "upgrade" part...

 

Replacing the spindle becomes a big issue because of the wheel bearing.

If it is the threads for only one of the four lbj bolts, you might consider repairing it first. A lot simpler and cheaper.

 

You could drill and tap it for the next size up. You'll have to clearance the hole in the lbj assembly as well for the larger bolt.

Which bolt is it, inside or outside?

 

Any Good thread replacement will work just fine .

If I fix head bolts it will be fine here.

Are you sure it was not the bolt threads ??

If you decide to change the spindle I would take the old one if you were not so far away

 

Drill and tap for sure with a larger stronger bolt.

 

The mounting pads are pretty thin. I would'nt chance it.

I tried giving away a pair of 2004 4WD spindles a while back, but no one would pay shipping so in the scrap bin they went

 

How about using a Heli-Coil?

$45 Heli-Coil Helicoil 5543-10 M10 x 1.25 Metric Fine Thread Repair Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5543-10-Metric-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRG34

 

I feel that this is one of the few places a helicoil shouldn't be used.

 

Why so Tell me your theory .

I have used thread replacements on things taking far more torque then these 10mm bolts.

Always willing to learn new things

 

These bolts are very sensitive. I wouldn't trust anything other than a new spindle

 

Was that intended for me?

Well these bolts don't need a tremendous amount of torque to begin with, 46ft-lbs, iirc? And the torque wouldn't be my concern.

Especially off-road those bolts see a great amount of shear force. And without knowing the metallurgy of those heli-coils they may deform and warp under the stress. I don't know for sure if that'd happen....but that'd be my concern.

 

I'm pretty sure it was the spindle threads. The bolts threads looked fine, but granted I was ina hurry to get it rolling again since it was in the way of my camper trailer and we were going camping the next morning!

The bolt looked fine, with some metal shavings on the first thread (not part of the bolt), so maybe the threads are fine and maybe I just cross threaded it. Like I said, I was in a hurry and maybe just cross threaded the first thread. If that's the case maybe I'm okay, but after looking into how much of a PITA it can be to replace the spindle, I need to take a real close look at what is damaged, and haven't had that opportunity yet.

It's the outer rear bolt, closer to the wheel, on passenger side.

 

you could chase it first, then reassess. Tap is cheap enough to give it a shot.
If you're young enough, you'll need it again sometime.

FWIW: i wouldn't trust a helicoil there either....maybe permacoil (?) Whatever Toyota advised using for the Camry headbolt problem. I really don't advise that either w/o checking into fully but sure not heli.

 

Is this what you're talking about (permacoil)?

https://www.threadkits.com/perma-coil/

Is so, what's the difference between that and a helicoil?

 

I really couldn't tell you but I was under the impression they were glued (epoxied) in. I may or prob. am mistaken about that. Both seem to be S.S. but Toyo. def. rec'd using the perma over the heli. for head bolts.
That was in a case of trying to save a engine block that would have been very expensive to replace not to mention labor intensive.
I believe I'd just pick up a used spindle and move forward w/o worry.

 

Can't see any. All need to remember that helicoil or "any-coil" are one time deal. Even when you successfully put the bolt in, it can't be removed without the coil damage or removal. This solution is for desperate who wants to do cheap quick fix and pass on the problem on the next guy. Remember you will have to be able to torque the bolt to factory setting and even tho, helicoil'ed bolt will not have the same strength as the original one.

For the best and permanent solution is to replace the faulty part. It is pita, but what is not. For temporary solution would be drill and tap the hole for the next size bolt (maybe close imperial size will work, I duno). Stay away form any coil unless you do it for someone who you do not care.

 

Ok, so It's been a little while since I could get back under the truck, but it turns out that all 4 bolts were 30mm length, on both sides(!).

So, ~6 years ago I replaced the LBJs and didn't think anything of the bolt lengths, I just reused the factory bolts, or at least what I assume were factory since I bought the truck when it was like 1.5 years old.

So, all 4 inner bolts essentially had only 2 or 3 threads engaged for 6 years, and 40,000 miles, many road trips, wheelin, etc... In other words, I dodged a serious bullet with that one!! Damn.

A trip to Oreily had me back with some m10x1.5 bolts because that's the size that fit their bolt sizing thing. I went with 10x1.5 even though I had read the size was 10x1.25, get home and, yeah, it reslly IS 10x1.25, so return those and head to Ace instead for some grade 10.9 bolts (30 and 40mm length) and a tap to chase the threads, some blue threadlock, and everything went back together flawlessly, and torqued to spec.

 

The threaded area on the OE bolts is a tad short of 1.25" long. The calipers say 1.23" or 31.25 mm. All 4 are the same length.