Problems raising/lifting seats!

I used a discipline called mensuration to determine the length of the OEM bolt (25 mm overall, including the taper threaded nose), and then applied mathematics to the challenge of calculating the required length of the new bolt, so as to pass through the spacer and retain the same engagement length within the captive nut in the cab floor. The result was that a 60 mm bolt, once the 8 mm reduce diameter locating "dowel" at its nose was machined, would provide an identical mechanical match-up to that provided by the OEM bolt.

OEM bolt at top:


As to the OEM bolt's strength I was able to determine from the bolt head's single slash marking (see below) that it is what Toyota refers to as a class 6T fastener. The FSM specifies a torque value of 32 lb·ft for a 6T flanged bolts (unless otherwise specified), and while I could not find any specific reference as to the strength of Toyota's "6T" class I was able to backtrack the recommended torque and determine it is a metric grade 8.8 equivalent--this is equal to an SAE grade 5 fastener (120k PSI tensile strength). Toyota's class 8T bolts, having 4 "slashes" on the head, are class 10.9.



I.e. the class 10.9 bolts (150k PSI tensile) I used are considerably (25%) stronger than the OEM bolts.

I did not calculate the column strength of the aluminum spacer as I am quite comfortable, based on 45+ years experience, that it is quite adequate to the task. My guesstimate is that it could withstand 50,000+ lbs before buckling or fracturing.

Bottomline, I spend none of my time (waking or otherwise) concerned about the safety of this modification....

 

I'm not quite sure of what the technical term would be but my biggest problem is the fact that the bottom of the seat frame bracket is no longer against the body of the cab. That not only helps stabilize the seat frame but also gives it structural strength and integrity. I understand the new bolt is stronger but no you're making the bolt and spacer the entire structure of that seat frame. In an accident your not only decreasing the integrity of that seat frame I would assume but also changing the dynamics of the design and strength of the design and directing it all towards that bolt. I don't have any schooling on any of this and I'm not trying to undermine you or your knoweledge. You seem like a smart guy. I'm just thinking perhaps you overlooked a few things? From an engineering perspective perhaps it would meet whatever criteria they use when they design something like this from not only a structural standpoint but also a safety one. Bottom line assuming you're the only one driving it, If you're fine with the liability then it doesn't matter what anyone else says. I hope you never find out in an accident if/how it changed any dynamic or variable. Also for the sake of anyone else who may ever be in that seat, I hope that them and yourself never have to find out either.

 

Curious on this as I have been wanting to lower my seat, which I realize is not possible after looking at the seat. We would need an entirely new assembly for that. The content of this thread though brings up this question:

Has anyone considered/examined the impact that altering the angle of their seat may have on side airbag deployment/coverage?

 

The 1¼" diameter spacer provides the same mating area (actually a bit more) as the pressed dimple in the seat bracket--that is why 1¼" round stock was selected--and as the clamping force of each bolt torqued to 27 lb·ft is over 8,000 lbs., when combined with the very short moment arm (32 mm) introduced by the spacer the redesign has no meaningful impact on the integrity of the structure.

Others may believe otherwise and for anyone who cares to do a complete stress/strain analysis I'd be pleased to as best I can provide the dimensions and characteristics of both the OEM and modified mountings.

I do not need to run these numbers because as Spock said:

"If I let go of a hammer on a planet that has a positive gravity, I need not see it fall to know that it has in fact fallen."
Star Trek Court Martial 1967

 

I am an extremely defensive driver (and even more so when on a bike) and spend most of my time driving so as to not crash; and not worrying about what will happen if I do. It has worked for almost 60 years now. in that time I have been involved in three public road crashes, the most recent in 1974:

• In 1969 I ran over some roofing debris in a a 1965 Opel Kadett wagon and lost both front tires and one rear, four people in the car. We flipped end-for-end once and rolled twice--we all walked away;
  
  
• In 1972 was driving a 1968 Fiat 850 coupe and was back-ended by an elderly man in a late 60s Buick--the car was totaled I was OK;
  
  
• In 1974 I was riding a brand shiny new 1973 Kawasaki H2 Mach IV 750 and came around a right-hand turn on a country road to find a full-size GM station wagon on my side--rather than hit it head on I went off the road to the left and kicked off the bike before it hit some rather large oak trees. Broke my left hip when I landed on the pavement;

That's it, after I lost the (uninsured) bike I decided I could not afford to crash anymore and have seen to it that it does not happen. It's why I no longer participate in organised bike "runs"; my caution at stop signs, red lights, congested traffic, etc. annoys too many others--but that's TS, I am still alive and unfortunately too many of those I have ridden with are not...

 

I doubt very much that something as crude as an air bag is that precisely aligned--consider that the one in the exploding steering wheel can be re-aligned through a considerable range of vertical angle and distance from the driver (aka, adjustable steering wheel)...

 

Well like smitty said, proceed at your own risk.

Last thing you want is to get hurt or killed in an accident and have the insurance company fight you or your family because of something like this.

 

Wow Cliff...I am super impressed with your skills! Any chance I could get two of these bolts from you. I will gladly pay you handsomely for your time and effort. I really want to raise my seat and have no issue rewarding you for your work! Please let me know! Rob

 

I purchased some 2 inch foam and cut it to fit in center of seat and back and placed it under some 20 dollar seat covers. Fits well and adds a lot of cushion to an otherwise stiff seat. Went on a 12 hour trip much less strain on the back and butt.

 

Higher?! It's uasully lower with a Taco. Seats are set on the high side from the get go...sup?

 

Of Course I am a cheap person. I also purchased some cooking grill aluminum from walmart at a cost of 1.50 each for 2 painted them black and zip tied them to the rear of my grill to keep rocks from messing up my ac condenser. Cheap solutions that work for me. I also purchased a cheap rug from walmart with rubber backing that with using the tail gate bolts laid on top of the plastic tailgate making so it wont scratch the tailgate and really makes for sliding things in and out of the truck bed easier.

 

The front seats in my '09 DCSB were low as crap at the rear (seat bottom tilted toward the rear)--I felt like I was sitting in a one of those damned Adirondack chairs (I have never found them to be comfortable):



I had first gotten one of those "memory foam" pads from Walmart mentioned earlier in this thread. It was better however after reading a post here or on another board realised that just raising the rear of the seat would do pretty much the same thing. Even with the 30 mm spacers It still tilts toward the rear more than enough to keep you in place:



You can see the as yet unmodified passenger seat (SWMBO is on my case about that), and the difference in the seat bottom angle.

I like it--but as has been made obvious by this thread we have differing opinions as to seat comfort--nonetheless we still all use them to support the same "...hole".

 

Just the bolts, or spacers too? I can get the bolts at the local Ace Hardware ($2.45 ea. IIRC) and turn down the noses relatively quickly, however to make more spacers I'll need to order some 1¼" 6061 round stock--used up the last of what I had to raise SWMBO's seat. I usually get that from Amazon where small lengths do not cost much ($12 for a foot of 1¼" free shipping with Prime). It takes 20 minutes or so to make each spacer as my retirement machine shop is not as grand as some I've access to in the past..

Let me know via a PM whether you want just the bolts or bolts and spacers, and how long you'd like the spacers (which affects bolt length)...

 

Way to go Cliff nice to see a fellow member helping another ...!! Thumbs up to you my friend...

 

PM sent.

Wow Cliff! Man, do I appreciate your willingness to help me with raising the seat on my Taco. It has been making me nuts!

I was thinking I'd like to raise the seat 3/4". What are your thoughts? I don't really need the spacers since I found washers that fit perfectly.

My e-mail address is: rob4092 at cox.net if you want to discuss this via e-mail.

I can pay you anyway you want....PayPal, cash or check in an envelope, etc. Just let me know how much!

Again, thanks so much!!!!

 

PM sent also, at 3/4" rise with proper bolts washers should be OK. What OD and ID are they?

 

I don't know what that means. I got them from Ace Hardware. Should they be okay????

 

This is a perfect example why we should 11 way power seat option on this truck

Toyota can you hear us now

 

The rocking chair describes how the seating is perfectly

Problem is, when you're driving you're not drinking a beer coffee or tea. You're actually working, tensed and looking out for the other (idiot) guy

Well at least on the pavement, but let's not forget we're supposed to be offroading!

 

Cliff, I am planning on using these bolts for the front of the seat, not the rear. Will they work for the front of the seat or rear bolts only????