Tiffany the Taco

Didn't see these when I quickly browsed the site do you have a link for them?

 

Here you go. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DRingAnchor.shtml

These take 5/8" shackles since the hole is 3/4"

 

I'm looking for some opinions on where to mount a transmission temperature gauge.
I have already purchased this glow shift gauge: https://amzn.to/3YGnKLN

I will set it to red to match the rest of my dash.


I am trying to decide if I want to use a single gauge pillar pod:
https://amzn.to/3IBrvwc


Or cut a hole in my dash where the stock ECT switch (or clutch start cancel for manual) is located. I have measured this space and I should be able to cut a circle and conceal the square hole where the switch is. I would then move the ECT switch next to the locker switch. I edited this photo I found online to show the location I am talking about. I am not opposed to drilling into the dash at all, so don't let that deter your suggestions.


I am honestly leaning towards putting it in the dash instead of the pod. I really don't like the look of the pod and it really makes it stick out.

 

I modified a 94 Landcruiser rear heat switch to make it into a SPDT aux light switch. This involves opening the switch and reversing the LEDs. You then run your main power output on the ground wire, and your ground on the original power input. The 2 outputs that were originally for the heater will now become 12v+ inputs. I will run one to the high beam signal and one to a constant 12v signal.

This way I can have the aux lights come on with the high beams, or choose to turn on the lights whenever I want.
Some would refer to this as an on-off-auto switch.

I also modified the LO label to make it say ON and swapped in a fog light label for the center from another switch that I had on hand.

Before:


After:


I found the wiring diagram for the switch in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-heater-switch-pin-out.148815/

 

Wiring hacks are cool.

 

I like that overhead console. And the USB power. Actually, I like a lot of your truck and am going to shamelessly copy you.

 

Have at it! Keep in mind that you have to figure out how to mount the overhead console. It only mounts with 1 screw at the back, the front has tabs that slide into the place where the stock map lights go. The back of the console has to be pulled basically up to the roof sheet metal without any clearance. This is why I decided to weld a nut to a thin piece of steel and then epoxy the steel to the roof.

 

So the front tabs slide into existing spots? Then I just need to figure out how to mount the back nut to the roof. And cut out the headliner.
Did you run power from the dome light or up from the dash through the pillar?

 

Also, what gen 4runner is it from?

 

Yes I ran power from the dome light. I had to modify the wiring on the console to get it to come on with the dome light when a door is opened. If you don't care about that then you can just wire it straight to the dome.

It is from a 3rd gen 4runner but I am not sure of the exact years that it was offered. The one I got on eBay was advertised as 99-02, but I know 3rd gen spans from 96-02. There is another version that was for models with a sunroof and it contains the sunroof switch.

 

Started making a mount for my new bussmann rtmr fuse block. I actually just cut and bent one of the mounts that comes with it. It bolts to the vsv on the evap canister. My vsv sensor mount is broken, but it should clear a new one. The back of the block mounts to the pinch weld on the firewall. It barely fits, but there is clearance for everything!

 

Probably a stupid question, but what the hell is going on there with the tie downs strapped to the steering wheel?

 

Haha, I believe that's to prevent the wheel from turning to not damage the clock spring. It's not my picture so I can only assume.

 

Cleaned out my blower motor today. A piece of rubber that I had jammed between the windshield and dash had fallen into the motor and it sounded like it was farting. Also, you can see how filthy it was after 18 years.


Also got a pic of the commutator on the motor. There are at least 1/16" deep grooves in it. I have never seen a motor commutator worn down like that. I'm surprised it still works perfectly.

 

Pulled my steering wheel and installed a roll pin to limit the play. Like everyone else says, I don't know why I didn't do this sooner. It's very easy and if I was going to do it again I could have the wheel out in 5 minutes.

I took the truck for a drive and there is an immediate noticeable difference. I haven't had it on the hwy yet but I will see soon enough. I followed this post and I don't really have much to add to the process except BE CAREFUL DRILLING! I actually broke 2 drill bits in the shaft. I was able to drill from the other side and use a punch to push the broken bit out. I believe that the shaft was moving slightly when I was drilling which caused the bit to bind and break. I suggest a drillpress if you have one.

 

Changed my oil and finally replaced the o rings on my oil filter bracket. They have been leaking as long as I have owned the truck (8 years). There has always been Oil all over the side of the engine and steering rack. That is about to change! The o rings that I pulled out were hard as rocks!

 

Toyota has a hell of a sense of humor. Or maybe it's just me.
Looks like a monkey grasping his wanker.

 

Have you seen the 4 cyl water pump?

 

Haha took me a minute to see what you were talking about. And yea the 3rz water pump is a joke.

 

Good call. I didn't see that initially