Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

Or cut the rod and zip tie it all the way for the most rear brakes.

If you're using the bracket, I would go as high as possible.

 

This is on my long list of things to do along with removing the ABS unit. The bracket is only a temporary solution, got it from another member for like $20.

Good to know, thanks Brett!

This is what I am at now:



And @Squeaky Penguin this is what the shackles are looking like. Unfortunately don't have time to swap this week before an event this weekend but will def go with the shorter shackles by Moab.




Also got the bad u joint swapped in my spare drive shaft.




Now I can actually count on it to get me home if need be. @Digiratus you carry a spare u joint right? Do you carry a ball joint press too? Doing that u joint was a bitch even with the press kit and an impact. I can't imagine needing to do it on the trail. One of those hitch receiver bench vises are looking really good right now.

 

Good to know. I guess I hadn't thought that through very well. If I'd lost a u-joint on the trail, I prolly wouldn't have been able to swap it out.

I did pick up a spare driveshaft though. Its from a '96 with the 3rz and a manual. Unfortunately, the front half of it is shorter than mine by a couple of inches so I will be carrying just the back half in the OSK as it is identical to what I have now.

 

Honestly it would have probably not been as bad with a freshly serviced shaft. Could probably do it with a hammer and some sockets, which is how I partially set the new one in. The new ones in went in nicely after I cleaned where you press them into. But getting the originals to pop, holy hell it took a ton of force. That being said, I am still carrying a spare u joint as well. May not be able to swap on the trail, but would be able to take it to a shop to swap if needed and will be better than getting a shit joint put in only to need to replace it later.

 

Judging by the angle of the rod at the valve, that is currently in the least amount of brakes position, or close to it. Going up will get you more brakes at ride height.

As Old Brett set the stupid valve doesn't work very well, so I would just get it all the way up so you have the most braking power all the time.

Doesn't look too bad, but the angles would improve with the stock shackles.

 

But that cost monies. I'll have to check if mine is actually working or not. If it is I'll keep it if not I'll swap for one of those adjustable valves.

 

All this brake nonsense sounds confusing. Silly first gens

 

Well last big wheeling trip down before Moab and nothing broke! Diff's are running great, lockers are all great, suspension did awesome. Last big thing left is the steering rack.

Before the trip I adjusted the bump stop height, cleared the dakar's and adjusted the BPV. I was pissed though because I had to loosen the u bolts to change bump stop height since that nut isn't welded in place.





The first trail I ran was going backwards up yellow jacket ridge. Pic of @ToyRyd04 going up for reference since I have no pics of my truck on it.




After we completed that section he noticed his diff plug was backed out, and then I looked and saw mine was too.



Went back to camp and tacked our plugs in place.




Thankfully no oil leaked out. Don't have many other pics of myself other than these:





Videos coming soonish.

 

Two vids:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvoXJQTV-Sk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JH4dv_bnCQE

 

Moar vids and pics:

https://youtu.be/HEheKENJw0Y
https://youtu.be/5YGNWotRQJA
https://youtu.be/MdSrBGWKkGw



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfR9dh4x0U0

 

Some stuff in the works...

Spare case is officially full. No way I can get an alternator in there without removing some protection.

Contents include:
LH OTRE
RH OTRE
ITRE
drive shaft and CB
u-joint
CV
2wd kit



It's a heavy bitch but I can still move it by myself.

I got this after someone broke their valve stem at takeover and @Subway4X4 fixed it with this:



Also got a CKMA-12 from @M192



Trying to retrofit it without pulling the main harness for the switches going into the cab for the CKSA-12. Should be doable after opening up the harness on the CKMA today.

Opinions on being able to run this thing on my bussman? or should I just use it as is with the inline fuse? I saw it's 40 amps which is a pretty beast fuse.

 

How's the ride with the dakars, shackles, and 5125? im looking at doing the same setup. Will just need dakars to complete its heard they ride stiff without weight in the rear.

 

Another option if you're not pressed for time (I'm all about having options) is to use this $6 valve puller if you have an open bead, can break off the faulty valve and carry a few inexpensive valves. Saves the Colby valve for more time sensitive situations where you need to get up and go...

 

If the in-line fuse is easily accessible for troubleshooting any possible problem with the CKSA-12 and possible fuse replacement, then go with the in-line fuse. It's probably gonna be an easier installation. If not accessible, then your Bussman might be a better choice. I've got a shitload of spare 40 amp fuses that I bought for my ARB compressor in-line fuse. Let me know if you want a couple and I'll shoot them over your way.

 

I want.

 

I dig that spares case, Mike!

Do you have a post in your build you can link to that goes over your 2WD kit? I think that's a really great idea.

 

This be what I do

 

Holy shit that is one bling spare case!!

 

That's a unique way to wear the shock boot.

 

I have some cv hub stub shafts if you want them.