Imminent Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) failure in 2016s?

The part number is what matters....I don't see it on that...the one you want is part # 90919-05098

 

The last 2 numbers on mine are 89, not 98.

 

That's the old style one, 98 is the new version

 

I guess I'll have to send it back (if they'll take it). That's weird that a previous post (pg 12) detailed his change out with the old part number and says it works better with increased mpg. I guess his "new" part hasn't failed...yet.

 

Some people including myself had success installing this part. Several months ago, we found out that there was a "new" part ending in -89 that had new markings. I think this was an internal correction before they released the recall.

Fast forward a bit, recall is out, with the correct fix being the -98 sensor. Who knows if there's a difference between the two, but if you're going to swap it out, might as well do it with the newest component. I wonder if -89 will continue to be manufactured, intended for those trucks which did not get too much anti corrosion coating.

Currently sitting at the dealership getting my new sensor installed. They have games so it's all good.

 

At least for those of us not included in the recall, I saw no difference between 89 and 98. I highly doubt there's any reason to get the 98 over the 89. The only reason I'd got with the 98 is if you were, in fact, in the recall range.

However, if you have one outside of the recall range (later than the recall range that is) and got an 89, you likely just bought the exact same part. Okay to keep in your truck for peace of mind, but very likely a waste of money otherwise.

 

Did you happen to measure from the tip to the base of the flange where the metal sleeve is (where it would contact the block)? I think this is the dimension they changed.

Edit: but I think that would be on the 98.

 

Agreed. I replaced my stock w/ the 89 sensor and it was amazing the difference in idle, MPGs, etc., It did resume bogging behaviors over a period of about 4000 miles, and when the new sensor was released I bought it and replaced. Initially felt better, but was likely just the ECU reset as the bogging and weird shifting stuff has returned. Can't tell any appreciable difference between the 89 and 98 sensors but I have a reliable back-up "89" in case I need it in the future. Looking forward to OV to hopefully fix this stupid ECU

 

I have a 2016 with over 25k, Should I be worried?

 

Some feedback after getting my "new -89" swapped for the "new -98". No noticeable difference. MPGs are unaffected, pedal buzz in unaffected, throttle response, all that good stuff.

I'd hate to spread bad info out, but I think that as of today, the -89 and -98 are the same part.

I managed to give my original production CPS back to Toyota, while keeping my -89 with the hash marks for backup.

Edit: My truck was on the Recall.

 

While there may be no noticeable difference in how your truck behaves with the -89 or -98 sensor, they are definitely not the same.

 

Curious how you know this? Again I'm speculating, but it makes a ton of sense for toyota to generate a new part number for the sensor, ensuring that no old stock could possible be used for the recall repair. Also ensures they can continue to sell the rest of the -89s to unaffected trucks. Oh, and you can't claim reimbursement if you did the fix yourself prior to the recall. Just theories, but I'm sticking to it until @OVTune ever comments.

 

Just trying to put others at ease who have the later version -89 with the "hash" marks in their unaffected truck, and are considering purchasing the -98. Don't bother, IMO.

If your truck is on the recall list, don't be a dummy and go get the repair.

 

I disagree...these trucks have so many drivability issues, that it's worth $100 for the peace of mind to know that you have the 98 part # to eliminate that as a possible cause (even if only partial) for the poor drivability. My truck was built in 4/17, MPG and throttle response, two things the CPK has significant effect on, are terrible. I think an aftermarket tune is ultimately going to be the answer, but it can't maximize it's effectiveness if it's getting bad info from bad hardware...so even if there is only a 5% chance my CPK is a problem, $100 to eliminate that possibility on a $36K truck is well worth it ($100 is only .2% the cost of my truck) before I spend $800 on a tune to fix the known software issues.. I'll be changing mine next week. I hope to get some improvement...if not, then I'll have piece of mind that I've eliminated all known possible hardware issues and then the aftermarket tune can do it's job properly...I hope.

 

Replacing the 'hash mark' sensor in my truck with the -98 sensor has definitely improved throttle response ... could have been the ECU reset? Time will tell, but there is a distinct difference in how the truck responds.

 

NO sorry I didn't.

 

I measured it from every dimension I could think of including the metal sleeve. No changes from 89 to 98. My guess would be the change happened between 89 and the one prior (sensor involved in the recall)

 

Several folks mention that the ECU reset rather than the new sensor may be the reason for change (improvement) in drivability. Does the sensor replacement procedure require a reset?

 

Install directions on the recall state to disconnect the negative battery terminal before replacing. Good idea to do this anytime you are unplugging sensors given the potential of electricity being in the system while you're messing with those damn clips

 

I am pretty sure the proper procedure has you disconnect the battery which would also reset the ECU.