How much should I expect to spend buying these suspension parts plus installation?

How much should I expect to spend buying these suspension parts plus installation?
Greetings,

Location: Clark County, WA State
Model/Year: 2000 Tacoma 4x4, 4-cylinder with an automatic transmission.
Lower ball joints, both sides.
Upper ball joints, both sides.
Sway bar.
Sway bar end links.
Steering rack.
Tie rod ends with rack.
Alignment.

A technician at a Toyota dealer recommended the above after I asked him what components would ensure better tracking, but when they quoted me the price it was expensive. The above components are not worn out but because of high mileage (over 180k) was his reasoning.
Any help is appreciated.

 

IMO, for a 17 year old truck there is no reason to go to a dealership for those repairs.

For the most part, most of that stuff probably should be replaced, especially if it is all original. Unless it's bent, there's no need to replace the swaybar itself (it's just a metal tube...). If the steering rack isn't leaking and doesn't have any play, don't bother replacing that, either.

As for the cost of the parts, it really depends on you. There's an ever constant battle over OEM vs. non-OEM parts. To give you an idea of cost differences, an OEM factory lower ball joint will probably cost $120 (each) or so, whereas a decent quality "off brand" can be half that. I've had MOOG brand on my 2004 double cab for nearly 7 years, and they're just fine. Some people like the piece of mind of full on OEM spec, but you're going to pay for it. 99% of the time, if they are installed correctly and properly maintained, you'd be fine with just about any brand (just don't get the *cheapest* set).

The other cost to incur is labor. Most of those parts are relatively easy to replace as long as you know how to turn a wrench. You can rent all the tools from Auto Zone for FREE, too.

So: if you go with, say, MOOG brand ball joints etc... and do the work yourself it'll cost maybe $300-$400 (?). If you go to a dealer with all OEM factory parts, it'll probably be a grand easy, probably more. Or, take teh middle road and take it to a local mechanic and have them go over it.

 

Thanks, the dealership quoted me $3,200 for everything I typed in my original post.

 

It all comes down to just how hard your Truck is used

For my 2000 I went with all Toyota Parts I thought the parts themselves were not bad .

Every thing but the Rack and sway bar .

This was about 160,000 miles

It is the Labor that is expensive

 

I replaced all of those parts on my own for waaaay less than 3k. I'm just a diy mechanic, no professional training. Just YouTube videos and this forum.


If you have some time and know how you could do those in the driveway.

 

$3200??? I'd tell whomever quoted you that price to shove it high, high, high, where the sun don't shine and I'd tell him in those exact words.

Why don't you just get a few quotes from the on-line dealers? That way you'll have something to make an informed decision with. Camelbacktoyota.com, Toyotaofdallas.com, midatlantictoyotaparts.com, and several others come to mind. Make sure you have the correct part numbers for what you want to buy.

About dealers (after 73 years, I hate dealers as much as I hate banks and insurance companies):

My wife just took her 2016 Hyundai to the dealer (from whom she bought the new car) for its first oil change. Had 1,431 miles on it. That's 14 hundred. When she bought it she was told several times that the first oil change would be free. When the work was done, the dealer did an inspection (i.e. Easter egg hunt) and "topped off" the fluids. I topped them off a week or so before she went to the dealer.

When all was done, the dealer charged her $55 for parts and labor and topping off the fluids. At 1431 miles. And told her to come back in 3 months for a "service". That just goes to show you that dealers are a bunch of f***ing thieves, especially when they see a woman coming.

I told the wife that she should call the service department and squawk (and I mean that woman can squawk!). She did, and she managed to get all charges reversed.

Never, EVER, go to a dealer and ask, "How much would ___(something)_______ cost me?" You'll get screwed. Big time!

 

I kinda had the same ? in my post about my '98 w/328k.

 

none of that stuff is hard to do on your own if you're a shade tree mechanic. If you're doing all of this to make the truck track better you may want to hold off on all of it. You're tossing a lot of money at things that may not fix the issue you're trying to chase down. If you're replacing these because you want peace of mind, then go for it.

What don't you like about how it tracks?

 

Not too mention that the dealer seems to feel that any fluid besides the washer fluid would need to be 'topped off' at 1400k... seriously FU stealership

 

When I went for and oil change to a dealer I always told them that if they want to top-off any fluids I'm only allowing them to top off the fuel tank and windshield washer. They never did.

Topping off fluid is the most stupid thing they do. Why would you want to top-off power steering or clutch fluid if it doesn't leak? If it does, the top-off is not a solution. The only thing you need to add in bug-free car is gas and windshield washer. Anything else should not be missing.

And the worst, the worst ever thing they do is adding a brake fluid. It is actually doing more damage than good. When your pads are wearing out pistons in caliper move out taking oil from the res. The reservoir has enough fluid to fill calipers, and when it gets to warning light level you know you need to look at brake pads because they are almost done. You will never get the warning light when dealer will top-off the brake fluid.
And when you need to change pads, you have to remove excessive fluid anyway, because the res will overflow if you push pistons back.

Stupid asses.

 

I would have to hold the steering wheel slightly to the left when driving down a straight road and then it would begin to veer right after letting it lose in my grip and after about a second.

The problem was fixed with a camber and toe adjustment.

 

I had a very similar quote from my dealer a few years ago. I needed inner tie rod ends, but Toyota (this dealer anyway) does not sell the inners alone, you have to buy the rack with inners. I'm sure some of the other components suggested match your list. I said "no thanks", and had my mechanic friend look at it. He told me what to order (inner and outer tie rod ends), and put them in for $200. I could have done it myself, but I was busy with some other projects.

There are plenty of service centers (dealerships included) which seem to "over-service", or overcharge for repairs, particularly for female customers. I see this with my sister's vehicle all the time (not at the Toyota dealership, but usually some small shop). Unfortunately, she believes anything they tell her, and doesn't always ask for advice (or take it when given).

 

My dealer told me that there is a knocking sound in my rack. Because they can't order exactly the same rack (by my vin number) they will have to rebuild it for .... over 2500 dollars. I just told him that unfortunately he has no clue what he is talking about. You don't rebuild rack because it knocks - this is the rack guide faulty design and it knocks since the warranty expires. I fixed the issue myself spending 1 hour and less than 80 dollars on the OEM rack guide (new design).
I learned to never believe car dealers and doctors. They both have no clue till "patient" is cut open, but they talk out of their asses like they know everything.

 

And this is the biggest bullshit he could come out with. I have 318k miles on my 22 years old truck. All parts above are still original and no problem with tracking.
If you don't have any worn parts (making loose) in front suspension and mothing is bent or damaged, if rubber is not torn or cracked then simple alignment (that is 80 dollars job or so) will fix the tracking.

 

One just has to remember all dealerships are independent so are not all created equal some are much worse.

So if the management tells the service writers to up sell they do or move on to McDonalds or Walmart

At my Dealership I know a few of the Service writers most all don`t care for the fact it is just part of the job.

Kind of like do you want Fries with that or would you like to Supersize your meal.

Then you still have a choice to move on

 

Thank you for your input with pricing. The tracking was fixed with a camber and toe adjustment for $150.00.

 

Good to hear that.