Anyone ever actually change their adjustable shocks (CDC/DSC/clicker)?

So looking through numerous threads I see some people install shocks with adjusters on them (ICON, Fox, King all offer under different names). And then never ever say they change them. Usually someone asks in the install/build thread and gets a response "Love 'em, but haven't set them to anything other than 4" (or the max or min adjustment value). And then silence follows...

So, does anyone own an adjustable shock and actually adjust them??? I may be failing a search, but here and on a few other forums I can't find a single post about anyone ever reporting actually using the adjustment feature on these shocks beyond a few people cranking them max or min right after install.

Would love some real world reports of people adjust these. Was thinking of getting adjustable shocks myself, but not so sure now...

 

I adjust mine from time to time.

My rear leafs are pretty bad so I have my rear set stiffer than the front. I will move it to an even harder setting when I have stuff in the bed. I will usually keep the setting reasonably soft up front for most day to day driving and set them a little harder when I take it out for fast dirt road driving.

 

Just installed mine a few weeks ago, and still in the process of changing periodically to see the results. Currently at 7, which results in faster lane changes and good for highway use where there is less wind gust steerage than at 4, still soft enough to tolerate our wonderful roads in eastern PA. Going to keep dialing up till I see negatives. More than like will hit the rocks at 2 for traction. I tend to be patient.

 

Thanks guys for the feedback! @Fifthwind, would love to hear how you like them in a few months after doing some rocks.

I'm going to have to continue to ponder how much I'm likely to tinker vs. the cost. My truck isn't a daily driver so perhaps just the proper valving with a non-adjustable will be sufficient.

 

I really haven't messed with mine yet. I'm running the 2.5 extended travel cdcs up front, OME dakars out back, with 10.3" travel icon 2.5s with CDC. Superbumps from and back. However my rears are valved 25% firmer than normal for carrying a four wheel camper in the future. Had I not planned to vary the weight of the truck so much I probably wouldn't have bothered with adjusters.
For now the rears are full soft. Fronts were initially on 4' but after installing the ST Maxx tires (very stiff) I lowered the front to 3. Unfortunately when I've been home, my daughter was sick and I didn't get to take the truck out and play at all. Hopefully within a couple weeks I'll be home, removing the upper overload from the dakars and make at least one run out to the dunes to test it out and try different settings.

 

I don't have them on my set-up, but this thread could be useful for the future when I need to get mine rebuilt to help me determine if I wanna go that route or not.

@T4C0CH40S might have some input, but he's currently out puttin his truck to good use in Moab!

 

id like to see this thread come back alive. Interested in getting the fox DSC remote res.

 

Some interesting things to add, such as compensating for temperature. At 100F I dialed from 8 to Max as the ride was getting a little soft, and likewise, as the temp has dropped I dialed back down to 8, and will be dialing down to 5 or 6 as it drops into the 20's this weekend.
Rock Crawling at moderate temps is OK at Min, but I dialed up to 2 in in warm weather for better response.

 

Yeah. I have touched them when I went wheeling out in the dunes at Pismo Beach earlier this year and earlier in the year as well. They respond well to the changes in adjustment, BUT they come at a huge cost: Capability of playtime. I have made several hard runs out there with the shocks cranked all the way up and they go from barely warming up at fully open to getting very very hot to fully closed after only driving a few miles through whoops and dune-like terrain. I like them a lot, but there is no good replacement for correct valving. At some point I'll be pulling apart the rears to revalve them or upgrade them to 12" (instead of 10") stroke shocks and I'll still have them in place in order to act as an anti cavitation device.

 

Subd

 

This is exactly why I chose not to by the adjusters, most people don't use them and those that do set and forget. For me, it's better to get them valved correctly initially then done.

I used the saved money on UCA

 

I have a street set of tires, slightly smaller diameter and 10lbs lighter, due to lower sidewall rating, and a set for off roading.
I adjust for the different tires, seasons, and terrain.
Only takes a few seconds, but I do have a high clearance front bumper.

 

sub'd a thread that the last post was 2.5 years ago might be the definition of 'old news'.

As far as adjustable shocks go....... They are useful if your driving conditions change. The more often they change, the more useful they are.

Ones I've had on race prepped street rides I enjoyed, but really only changed them on race day, once I learned the behaviour on the street and track. "Maybe" a bit softer on interstate runs.

 

Yes subbed because I started reading and I didn't finish and didn't want to lose the thread

 

There are three scenarios where adjusters are useful:
You're sensitive to ride quality and use the adjusters to get it where you want it and never touch them again.
You occasionally carry heavy loads and want to stay in control, especially off-road.
You see different types of terrain; washboard needs soft valving, whoops need stiff valving.

If none of these describe you, then save some money.

 

I adjust mine pretty often. If im down in oregon and rippin around the dunes its full stiff front and rear. Playing on trails about mid way maybe a bit stiffer in the rear. Just daily driving about mid way or softer.

I do wish I initially had gotten a bit stiffer valving and my rear Alcans have always been a bit too soft. Overall for a daily driver, multiple use truck, id say worth it.