[DEZ TOY FAB] 96-04 FIRST GEN RACE KIT ***J-ARM UPGRADE OPTION***

The time has come and the prototype is getting laser cut as I type this. I've decided its time to hook up my first gen brethren with a better LT option. This kit comes with fully fabricated lift spindles no more junky (deadly) ball joints, full sized hardware, cheap stronger hubs, bigger brakes, massive travel numbers, fits 35s, and it's bolt on!!!


Kits come with grade 8 hardware, FK joints, full heim steering, brake lines, and limit straps. All kits come powder coated.

Uses second gen tacoma hubs and brakes.


The bolt on version cycles over 15 inches metal to metal with a short body 8" king coil over. Will be bumped and strapped at 15 inches of very functional wheel travel.

***DROOP***



***RIDE HEIGHT***


***BUMP***


All plate is laser cut and CNC bent



Here is the kit shown with the J-arm option that cycles over 18 inches metal to metal and will be strapped at 17.5 inches and allows for a 3.0 secondary shock on a first gen Tacoma!


***DROOP***


***RIDE HEIGHT***


***BUMP***



***SHOCK TOWERS INCLUDED***




COMPLETE LT KIT MINUS HUBS & BRAKES: $4,200

J-ARM OPTION WITH SHOCK TOWERS: $350

HUB, ROTOR, and CALIPER COMBO: $650

8" KING COIL OVERS WITH SPRINGS: $1,100

10" KING COIL OVERS WITH DUAL RATE SPRINGS: $1,350

SHIPPING: $250


Thank you to my Tacoma community for always supporting my shop and products!

 

Looks awesome! Now, if there were only some axles sticking through those hubs

 

This is awesome to see!

 

Sorry I have no plans for a 4wd "race" kit. I will be producing a standard (tc, camburg, ect) style 4wd kit down the road though.

Thanks man! I'm beyond happy with this front end.

It's about time these trucks get a true race kit with no bump-steer and a lot of ground clearance even at full bump. The pre-running down in Baja has really shown me how important that is coming though some real nasty (rocky) sections.

 

I will eventually be in the market for a race kit for my 1st gen. Questions:

It looks like you kept the factory anti-dive with the J-arm? Any reason why? How is the caster gain with it as is?

Width per side?
Camber at bump/ride height/droop?
Caster at bump/ride height/droop?
What size wheel/backspacing and tire is it designed around?
Ground clearance at bump with said wheel/tire?
At the time of purchase would you be interested in designing it with a 2.5" hub?

Thanks for taking a minute to answer my questions.

 

if only you were a year and a half sooner haha. i wish i could run your lit but its too late to turn back now!!!


would highly recommend this kit because of the jarm. it allows you to miss the brake booster which has been a bitch for me on my kit!!!! cant wait to see some productions of this kit out and running!!!

 

Great questions!!

The J-arm has a reduced anti-dive angle vs factory specs in order to gain a bit more travel. I feel the anti-dive serves it's purpose on these trucks as in reducing the amount of front end drop under heavy braking.

It's about 4.5 over per side

I'm working late tonight but I'll try and get on the computer later to post those specs.

It was designed to work with a 16" wheel with zero offset and 35" tires. I suggest 17" wheels for more tire selection.

About 8" of ground clearance to the lowest point (cam tab) with no tire compression.

I could do one with a standard 12 bolt hub block with no brake tabs if you like.

2.5" hubs are massive overkill on your truck unless your adding a couple thousand pounds and 600 horsepower lol

2.0 hubs are more than enough if you go that route.

Thanks man!

The brake booster is still a mother F&^%&er but I'm designing a bracket to raise it up 2.75"

The main reason for the J-arm is 3.0s

 

I fucking need this in my life...




I wish i knew if i was going to be employed. I want this so fuckin bad. go perfect with a future 4 link read and LS swap..

 

Losing the 4x4 cause race truck?

 

Uniball conversion upper and lower?

 

Oh for the love of god....



4wd is all i want!

 

I've been internet fabrimacating for years....

As I'm sure you know the general consensus is that anti-dive can screw with other factors in the geometry and is discarded... I tend to agree with you and prefer some anti-dive as well.

No rush on my questions

overkill = 2jz race truck project... and one spare hub to match all four corners

 

i freaking need this..... between this and the burg race kit and im leaning more towards this

 

only the shock towers are extra right? is there different options for the jarm mounting? or will i have to go with a engine cage for the jarm

 

Camber
Bump / Ride / Droop
6.5* / 1.3* / 2.4*

Castor
Bump / Ride / Droop
13.5* / 7.2* / 2.4*

You will need to build an engine cage for sure but tabs and gussets to center the j-arms mounts will be included.

 

updates on this?

 

lol I pm'd him last night asking about an update on the 4x4 kit in the works. In for updates