ARB Rated Recovery Point

The part is currently on backorder from what I have been told. It either sold out or still hasn't been released as near as I can tell.

On a side note for those that have the ARB bumpers on their 3rd gens or are looking at it. Make sure the front passenger side mount clears your ac line by about 15mm before you leave the shop. I apparently got one of the first versions of the bumper with the old mounts(square in shape), that they did not notch a 45 degree angle on the corner. It does and will cause you to loose your ac, you can see my pic below. Toyota will recommend an entire AC replace if this happens as it is exposed to the environment (moisture/dust), FYI, this is not a cheap repair.

Now that being said, Toyota is replacing my entire ac system as they cannot guarantee there is no other issue with the AC system as I drive in harsh conditions (dusty hot dry one day, slick, wet snotty clay the next) which some of the parts are backordered until Sept/OCt due to this screw up by the bumper install shops tech, thankfully the install shop is covering that on their dime and a few other things that were screwed up by them.

Anyways something to be aware of if you are buying the ARB summit bumper, the first editions of these the mounts are incorrect and can cause issues with the AC line on the front passenger side coming off the bottom side of the radiator.

In the attached picture the new version of the mounts where it contacts the AC line are cut at an angle so there is no clearance issues. Basically from the emails i have received on this and the numerous apologies from the shop and ARB, is that this has been addressed in the newer versions of the frame mounts. What baffles me is why in the hell sell a bumper with the old version of the frame mounts?

I'm not overly happy with all his, but the shop and ARB are working together to fix and repair my truck. Sadly I have no AC for the summer months.

 

Also the recover point should and will work with the pro skid plate i believe.

In the photo's below you can see how the TRD pro skid plate works with my bumper(no modifications). The recover point is on the passenger side and attaches to the frame mounts/external bolts on the outside. There should be no issues with installing the recovery hook with the pro skid plate. Now with other manufactures rest shocks, I cannot say it will, but I cannot see why not. You may just need to mount the rest in a different spot?

First pic is the ARB show truck showing where the recovery mount is. The TRD pro skid plate is about the same. 2nd and 3rd pics are of my truck. Wish the shop did as nice of an install as this truck.

 

surprised no one has one installed in this thread yet since its been a few months

 

its backordered and was only released in July according to their bulletin.

On a side note I notice that bumper is different then mine. Hmm

 

we need a group buy

 

I want it. Will there be a passenger one to replace the dumbass loop that's there now?

 

Thanks for the heads up. Definitely something to watch out for.

If I go with the ARB bumper then I have to get this recovery point. But first I need to check clearance with my mobtown skid plate as well as my shock reservoir brackets.

Waiting for someone to be guinea pig.

 

Not sure what kind of coilovers you have up front, but with my kings, the resivoir brackets were in the way of the extra supports that go on the side of the frame and attach to the bumper. I had to take these off to be able to mount the resis.. just something to keep in mind. Also, my truck is a 2nd gen so there could be differences between the 2nd and 3rd gens.

 

I have the same King setup as you do. For the third gens the resi bracket mounts between the frame and the sway bar, essentially relocating the sway bar bracket.
Where did you install the resis if the ARB bumper needed to be in that location?

 

I've done quite a few mods to my ARB bumper:

• Added a beefy "stone guard", which is basically a skid plate to protect the radiator and aux. oil/trans. cooler. ARB wants $80 + Shipping for one of theirs in 18ga. stamp steel, but I fab'd one up for about $20 using some 3/16" A36.
  
  
  
  
• Then I welded some burly 1" recovery points to the bumper. ARB does not add any shackle mounts on their Tacoma bumpers and I only had the stock tow hooks up front. I wanted something that would be more in-line with the frame, and also handle the weird angles/weight that goes along with winching.
  
  The (2) recovery hooks have been sufficient up until now, but I also reinforced them while I had everything off.
  
  I notched and cut the bumper, and slid the 1" recovery mounts in, welded the face (front and back) and also ran a fat bead along each side, top and bottom. The location I chose allows them to be semi-recessed and not stick out too far, but it also allowed me to get maximum contact and footprint to weld on, so these mounts are welded in-line with the frame for maximum shear/torsional strength and will provide a much better pull angle in relation to the winch line.
  
  
  
  
  

 

I installed the resis in the location they were meant to go and just took off the side reinforcement brackets. I plan on fabbing up some kind of bracket that will take the place of the ARB brackets, yet still let me use the resi mounts

 

Badass looking recovery points!! Did you have the pieces that you weld in machined or did you buy them somewhere? The lack of recovery points is my only complaint about the ARB bumper

 

I originally bought a set of 3/4" shackles from Relentless (I don't think he is still selling those), but my brother machined me a set of 1" thick ones. I just had to drill the holes out for the shackle pin.

 

so just picked mine up, I will say its a hell of a lot bigger than I thought. and I love it.
Some on here probably know I'm particular about rated points as I've seen failed rigging at work so I know the dangers.

This is obviously rated and holy fuck is it ever beefy.
must weigh close to 30lbs alone.

I'll probably install it over the weekend or friday so will update more then but for the time being here's some pics

For reference I have size 13 feet.

 

I should also mention the way the attachment point is, according to ARB its angled to the same amount of steering. so at full lock you can pull at the same angle.

Its also a bit more to install than I expected. Need to drill a hole on the frame bigger to 19mm. all hardware is metric as well which I love.

 

I am following this closely make sur to put up some good detailed pics of the install! I tried looking under my truck for where this would install and something looks way different and I can put my finger on it.

 

Subs

 

Will do
Dunno where you saw the instructions but you need to drill some stuff larger for the hardware

 

They changed it from original pics we've seen. That's why everyone says it sticks out too much but I've seen the new one in person. Not bad at all

 

So did the install today. took about an hour and a half
First and most importantly, for those that really think the OEM tow hook is good for a snatch recovery...well I hope no one is injured when that thing lets go. I thought there were three bolts at least holding it, there's not. Only two. They may be long but still its not a tensile load put on them but a sheer load and I doubt those two bolts will hold when you give a good tug on it.
When I took the factory one off was happy knowing I never had to use it yet. What a piece of shit. Was really light and does not feel strong at all.



Now for the install, you do need to trim fender lining, and have to drill one of the holes larger.
Its a mix of smart designing and stupidity. Smart design, you don't need to hold the whole weight of the hook when installing it for long and at no point do you need to put in a bolt while holding its whole weight. The first bolt you install based on instructions is an M12 bolt that goes through the frame in the hole you drill bigger.



Once drilled you hook the recovery point onto that one bolt and then you swing it up to install three new M12 bolts that go into the two existing holes for the factory point and then one into the nut beside it. Up until this point the install is simple, and relatively self explanatory.


Now for the stupidity. Firstly, when installing this if you have the tool to remove those little push in things that hold some of the fender lining in, remove the whole lining. If you don't just go buy one and remove the whole lining. It will make the install so much easier.
I don't have the said tool so I ended up doing this.


Just undid the one screw on the bottom holding the liner and the two on the way up the liner that are right by the flare. Will give you enough to pull the liner out a bit to get your hand in there. But you might get the inside of your elbow scratched up pretty bad like I did when reaching in.

Now the really stupid part with this bolt is they supply you with a short one. The portion you are bolting to is boxed but they don't provide a bolt to go all the way through instead, they provide a stupid nut/washer type thing on a long piece of metal they tell you to bend then poke through the hole on the inside and then you'll need to line it up and screw the bolt in the fender into it.
For one you're not only using a portion of the boxed part to hold the recovery point not the whole thing. secondly its a royal pain in the fucking ass to get it in the right spot and screw in at the same time. With the fender lining removed it would be easier but still stupid idea.

I should've gotten a picture of it before putting it in but all it is, is a nut welded to a flat piece of steel to act as a washer.

Also if you have a mobtown skidplate or any skid plate for that matter, would likely be easier to do without it on. I didn't have to remove mine but was a pain in the ass when torquing all the stuff. I would've dropped it, but seriously that skid is a bitch to mount solo so just didn't want to fight it.

Also instructions never mention anything about removing the tire but yes you definitely have to remove it in order to work on this.

Once you get all the bolts in its time for the easy part.

ARB provide a torque spec of 57ft-lbs for all M12 hardware.
I only torqued the four easily accessible bolts as I didn't remove the fender lining.



And you're done. Love how its angled in a way to match steering angle.



As per instructions, also states when doing a recovery the bow of your shackle should be in the recovery point and your strap around the pin of the shackle. That way it will allow it to move easier when doing angled pulls.


So for those wondering if it was worth the almost $400CND I paid for it, totally.
I've seen failed rigging and its scary. Also if your factory point fails off road, if you're lucky enough to not have any injuries, you now have no tow point and will need to start thinking of another way to pull the truck out. This point will also work great if you have a winch and are using a snatch block to get your full line out and are hooking back onto your vehicle.


If you do go off road, this is worth every penny. If you just stick to the streets and mall crawl hard with your 'bros', save your money, go buy some vape juice and starbucks. You'll enjoy it more.