ARB compressor wiring

I need some help figuring out how to wire my the ARB compressor I just installed. The supplied harness is great if I wanted to hook up the compressor and locker solenoids with all the integrated switches, but I don't. I am only using it for tire inflation and don't want to run wiring into the cab and cut the dash up to mount a switch. I have to pop the hood to hook the air hose up anyway so it just makes life simple to have the switch there as well. The easy way is just simple positive/negative connections to the compressor with a switch, but I want to keep the pressure switch working.

Would I wire an on/off switch between the thin black wire from the battery and the red wire running to the pressure switch? That would allow the Dk. Blu wire to trigger the relay and activate the compressor?

 

Since this is a prewired harness does it tell you anyplace just which pins on the relay are the coil and which are the contacts .

A wrong guess will cause some interesting fireworks

Where do you plan to mount your switch?? under the hood ??

I would just build what I need and not use this harness .

If I did not need to run off to work I would draw it out to make it easy

 

I'm a little confused by the question but it's probably more so that it's 2AM here and I can't sleep.

I don't believe that it'll be that simple. I understand what your trying to achieve, but the switch needs to complete the circuit and "ground" the relay in order for the compressor to turn on. Notice how the thin blk wire is spliced completely into all grounds?

When I worked my switch up, the compressor wouldn't fire until I tapped into the lighting circuit for the illumination. I'm assuming because it's all integrated somehow through the switch.

I would treat my on/off switch as the isolation switch and illuminate/integrate the red-yel, blu-white wires somehow. Honestly it would be difficult to make your own harness as the ARB one is very well assembled with the fuse and relay in line.

Why not utilize the ARB switch mounted to a nice looking panel under the hood and just find an illumination source at the fuse block instead?

 

There's already a thread that shows this information. Let me dig for it, I did the same thing.

 

That's an option but I'd prefer not to have 20ft of wiring bundled up where only 4ft is needed. I could cut and splice it all down to an appropriate length but I'd still be left running a bunch of wires for an unnecessary illuminated switch.

 

I ended up trimming about 30 linear feet of wire from the harness to get what I needed working for me. The blue-white wire for illumination is deleted as well as all the wiring for the two air locker solenoids. The red-yellow wire was connected to the battery instead of a switched source. I tidied it up a bit after this picture but that's the general idea.

 

I'm starting this as well.

Power to the compressor is done, just working on the easiest way to do a switch.

 

Ok, just started this process, I guess I am completely lost here On this harness!

 

Hey guys looking for some help, maybe someone had this problem before. I'm running into some interesting issues with my twin ARB which sounding like it's choking while running, (running very rough) after just a few uses. It was professionally installed/ wired and switch pros is used to control the on/off. Last time it was turned on it blew both 40A fuses. All equipment including the switchpros is brand new. Initially I thought it was the compressor, shop exchanged it with a new unit, same thing is happening. At this point I'm thinking of getting another wire loom and testing it out directly bypassing the switch pros not sure if it could be causing this issue. Another thought, would a possibly bad car battery cause this sort of issue? The ARB is ran with the vehicle being on so I assumed that it has nothing to do with battery but I'm really lost at this point ;/

 

is the pressure switch wired up? How about the amperage setting on the switchpro circuit? What’s it set at...

 

There was no pressure switch installed. Honestly I have no idea about amperage setting on the Switch-Pros. Not sure how it can be checked. The very strange thing is that it worked flawlessly when I picked it up from the shop and than something has gone bad and there was no additional things installed of any sort. My guess is the main battery perhaps has something to do with it if it’s dying and not delivering enough juice to the compressor but with the car running that seems unlikely besides the truck starts just fine every time so the only other puzzle would be the Switch-Pros end of things.

 

If you log onto your Switchpro you can see your battery voltage and each circuit amperage. Your last 4 circuits are the higher amperage circuits.

 

Will do that tomorrow. Good tip ! I’d assume the off road shop did it right and installed it wired to a higher amperage circuit since it was operational from the start.

 

Yea I would just start from the beginning and trace everything out. Process of elimination

 

I’m trying to connect my ARB compressor to my switch pro and I want to use 1 locker. Can I connect the black to negitive on the battery and the yellow wire to a high amp switch and red to a high amp switch speratley? My theory would be that the locker has to have the compressor on to work anyway. So, on the switch pro I can turn on the compressor for inflating tires. I would then turn the compressor and the locker on at the switch pro to engage the locker. Would that work?

 

Yes, as long as your switch for the locker can safely handle the air solenoid current and the switch for the compressor's relay can safely handle the relay's current.

 

No pressure switch? Is this running and building up pressure until it air locks? That'll pull enough current to blow fuses, never mind being dangerous and hard on components.

 

Right now there are three wires coming out of the ARB compressor at the locker. Black,yellow,red. Black is ground, yellow is the power for the locker and red is power for the compressor. Now there is a harnes theat comes with it that makes sure the compressor is running before you engage the locker. I plan on not using the harness. I want to be able to turn on the compressor as one 35amp switch on the swich pro and then engage the locker as a second 35 amp capable switch. This way I would be able to run the compressor solo. Will that work?

 

Yes that works fine. With the black grounded the low side of the locker air solenoid and the compressor relay are grounded. From there if you put 12VDC on the yellow wire the air solenoid will actuate. If you put 12VDC on the red wire the compressor relay will actuate and run the compressor. Look at the wiring diagram in the first post of this thread and you can see how ARB daisy chains the switches such that the locker switch doesn't have its supply voltage until the compressor switch is on. You're just not doing this. It's fine.

If you want to run the compressor without the ARB relay you'd be wiring the red/white and black/white at the compressor motor into your 35 amp switch pro circuit. But you still need to come up with a slick way to use a pressure switch.

You can run the compressor solo with the stock ARB wiring as well. It's designed for airing up and actuating the locker/s.

 

Thank you for verifying. I’m gonna pull the trigger and try it out. I’ll send pics of the final product.