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Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Home builder 68, Aug 31, 2017.

  1. Aug 31, 2017 at 6:38 PM
    #1
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    Alan
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    1995 Tacoma DLX 2.7 4x4 auto
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    1995 2.7 auto 4x4
    What happened... Truck died while driving.
    Had no spark
    Changed distributor
    Truck started right up!
    Tried to drive...truck sputtered and hesitates!
    Cel came on code for TPS
    New TPS
    Still runs like crap! And getting same code for TPS
    Took to shop...
    Shop says its the MAF. Drove home with MAF disconnected and truck will accelerate!!!!
    New MAF...runs same! Like crap
    So...I changed fuel filter...nothing!
    Got another code...crank sensor
    Put new crank sensor on...still!l runs like crap
    New code cam sensor...well it doesn't have one...guy at shop said new distributor is bad....so I returned it and got another one....nothing runs the same!
    So I put a used computer in and still runs like crap!!!
    Here are the symptoms as of now:

    Starts right up
    Stumbles and stalls up to 4 to 5k then runs fine....
    Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!
     
  2. Aug 31, 2017 at 6:45 PM
    #2
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    1995 Tacoma DLX 2.7 4x4 auto
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    Sorry I forgot to mention I also put new cap rotor plug wires and plugs....

    Thanks!
     
  3. Aug 31, 2017 at 7:19 PM
    #3
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    1995 Tacoma DLX 2.7 4x4 auto
    Header
    I forgot more info. Truck has 190k and only goes to 5k while parked not driving under a load. Driving is difficult as you can maybe go 40 mph if you ease into it.
    I've owned the truck since new so Its my baby.
    Thanks again for any help!
     
  4. Aug 31, 2017 at 7:21 PM
    #4
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    Does it run better when first started from cold? Edit: does it run good cold then like crap when warm?
     
  5. Aug 31, 2017 at 7:26 PM
    #5
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    Yes, a little better at idle. Otherwise the same studdering and stumbling.
    Thanks!
     
  6. Aug 31, 2017 at 7:27 PM
    #6
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    Good spark plugs?
     
  7. Aug 31, 2017 at 7:28 PM
    #7
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    Yes I presume I used copper oem from AutoZone. Gap at 32
     
  8. Aug 31, 2017 at 7:31 PM
    #8
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    So, it runs good first thing then when temp rises like crap?
     
  9. Aug 31, 2017 at 7:32 PM
    #9
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    Honestly runs like crap no matter what. Lol
     
  10. Aug 31, 2017 at 7:35 PM
    #10
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    Igniter comes to mind with no spark but I don't know if you have one. Edit: stuck egr made my old truck run like crap. How old is the battery?
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2017
  11. Sep 1, 2017 at 5:45 AM
    #11
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the reply!
    Battery is new also. I may replace ignitor as it is cheap. Guy from shop stopped by this morning before work and put his computer on it again. It is telling him truck is running rich???
     
  12. Sep 1, 2017 at 6:19 AM
    #12
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    Vacuum leak, maybe
     
  13. Sep 1, 2017 at 6:30 AM
    #13
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    I will spray some starting fluid around the intake after work and see it the engine reacts...it all stems from when the module in the distributor went out????
     
  14. Sep 1, 2017 at 7:38 AM
    #14
    vern650

    vern650 Well-Known Member

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    Spark plug wire not seated correctly or faulty wire? Cracked spark plug? Those are just a few more ideas
     
  15. Sep 1, 2017 at 8:08 AM
    #15
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    I will double check those. I am also going to check the timing again...
    Thanks!
     
  16. Sep 1, 2017 at 8:11 AM
    #16
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    SAW 2.0 Coilovers Wheeler's 5 Leaf + 3 AAL Bilstein 5100s LCE long tube header Flowmaster Delta 50 Muffler FJ Trail Team Wheels 4Runner overhead sunglass console 4Runner leather seats All LED lights Red/Clear Tail Light Tundra Brakes HID Projector Retrofits 4Runner Auto Up/Down Windows Bullet Liner Cargo tie down system E-locker axle swap w/4.56 Gears ARE MX Cap Prinsu Toprac Custom heated turn signal/puddle light mirrors Volant Intake Tube
    Ok, instead of throwing parts at this, maybe you should think about what happened a little more.

    The truck died while driving: Does this mean that one second it was running fine and then it just shut off?

    All of these issues make me think this is electrical. If the truck was running fine before it died, I doubt all of those things went bad at the same time. How good is your battery ground, engine to chassis ground, etc?
     
  17. Sep 1, 2017 at 8:15 AM
    #17
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    1995 Tacoma DLX 2.7 4x4 auto
    Header
    Thanks for the reply. Yes, truck was running fine. It sputtered a few seconds and died. It would not start. So I pulled a plug and was not getting spark. I then changed the distributor which comes as a unit with the module. It started right up but has not run property since....I am taking it back to another shop next week for a second opinion.
     
  18. Sep 2, 2017 at 6:17 PM
    #18
    Home builder 68

    Home builder 68 [OP] Member

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    1995 Tacoma DLX 2.7 4x4 auto
    Header
    I FIXED it!!! I manually adjusted the timing like I did on my old Porsche. Manually it was about a tooth clockwise off. So I adjusted the rotor counter clockwise one tooth 1/8". But......it is now giving me a po336 which is the crank sensor. I just put a new crank sensor in! And if you stat it and let it idle on its own...as soon as the rpm goes below 1000 it dies...but if you manually take the idle down by using the gas pedle you are OK???
     

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