Anyone switched to synthetic and wish they hadn't?

My 2014 has about 35k and it due for an oil change. I've always used Castrol GTX 5W-30 and the previous owner (just a couple of oil changes) had it done at the dealer, so whatever they use, Castrol bulk 5W-30 I think

Anyway, my wife drives a 2016 Mazda CX-5 and it calls for a moly synthetic

$52 0W-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0W-20 oil. I see Pennzoil makes one that meets these specs and was wondering if it would be a problem to use in my Tacoma?

Anyone else running thinner synthetic oil? I still plan to change it every 5k, but it sure would be nice to just have to buy one oil vs two.

 

Syn, dino, good, cheap oil. It all works. Just is how long do you want to go between changes. Switch between, or do what ever you want. I have a fleet of cars and trucks. Run what is on sale, many have over 100K with no problems.

 

I guess I'm more interested in changing viscosity/weight and the added moly. Just a lot of changes all at once vs just using whatever.

 

Agreed. Oil is oil is oil. Pick one and use it.

 

Im not going to lie in the old days I put 300,000 miles on a truck and maybe changed the oil seven times. Do what you like (I thought it was 70,000 between oil changes )

 

OP what ever you do, stick with an oil that Xw-30 for your v6, its designed around an oil that 30 weight at operating temperature. so 0w-30 5w-30 or 10w-30 will all work fine, preferably if you are using synthetic run a 0w-30 cus you can (regardless of climate) as it will offer the best startup protection. FYI a 0w-30 oil is still to THICK at 100*F ambient temps on a "cold" motor to properly lube compared to its 30 weight property at operating temperature. That stated, its MUCH thinner than a 5w-30 or 10w-30 so it will lube much better till the motor warms up.

 

I would stick with something that has a "hot" rating of 30. The VVT in the trucks is set to work on oil pressure and a thinner oil might change its behaviour. Or possibly not.

5w-30 for normal conditions. If you're in Alaska or somewhere very cold you could try 0w-30 so the oil stays thin on start up.

 

Check the manual for the CX-5, it may allow you to use a thicker oil in a warm climate.

 

MQ oil should not be run in engines that do not need it, as it could wreck your emissions sensors and cat


SkyActiv engines require 0W20-MQ. The MQ oil has Moly added to reduce friction.

I have no idea if tacoma emissions systems can handle added Moly, but since all that crap
costs thousands to replace, and a ghost fart can kill them....I'd keep MQ oil out if it


synthetic hell yeah use synthetic...but with Moly ? not sure and no clear answers
other than.... MQ is out of spec as far as the Manual goes....it is not mentioned, therefore roll the dice. I don't like to play dice with this motor...no MQ for me but always Mobil 1

 

If you still plan on changing your oil every 5k its a waste of money to run synthetic. The point of synthetic is to increase your oil change interval.

Nothing bad will happen when switching to synthetic. The claims if leaks are okd wives tales.

 

Then get rid of your truck which calls for 5W-30 and buy a vehicle that calls for 0W-20.

 

Syn, no syn, doesn't matter. The viscosity is important and I would not run 20 weight in a truck designed for 30.

 

* Use the weight of oil the owners manual calls for.

* Regular oil works, but synthetic works better. That has been proven beyond any doubt.

* Synthetic not only works better, it can go longer between oil changes and will cost less in the long run. Lots of guys with 300,000+ miles with 10,000 mile oil change intervals with synthetic. If you insist on 5000 mile oil changes then you are wasting your money on synthetic.

I've never understood that logic. I buy oil in 5 qt jugs. Two jugs of 5W30 oil costs exactly the same as one jug of 5W30 and one jug of 5W20.

 

I use Mobil 1 synthetic and change every 10k miles. You'll waste more money doing 5k changes, the oil still looks decent at 10k. If you want added insurance cheap, just change the filter every 5k and the oil every 10k. Filter costs $6 + a quart to refill what's in there.

You can flip flop synthetics and regular as much as you want, it's pretty well documented that doesn't actually hurt anything.

In my diffs and transfer case, I run regular 80w-90 non-synthetic because I plan to change it every 10k - 15k miles, mainly due to water driving, towing, and offroading. No sense wasting money on expensive stuff I change out all the time.

For engine, I use Mobil1 0W-20 Syth because I like it. But I have a 3rd Gen. Use what the engine was designed for, in your case 5w-30 or at least xW-30.

Basically as long as you are monitoring the situation you really can't go wrong. Super short intervals are fine if you want to spend the $$, if you gives you the peace of mind you're looking for. I'd imagine I could take my motor oil to 20k if I changed the filter a few times, but why bother, I can buy 5 quarts of m1 0w-20 syth for $22 at walmart.

 

It is nice that 3rd Gen Taco and 5th Gen 4Runner use same 0w-20. However, still use different filters, so to the OP, unless you buy two of the same engines you're gonna still have some things to "manage."

When my oil filters come in I take a sharpie and write T4R and Taco on them so I know which one it is without needing to remember part numbers. Buy sharpie, write on Jugs, problem solved

 

Good information above on watching your oil weights. I like synthetics but I dont always use them. They are great oil in in gear box/differentials. Uniformed molecular structure gives them great longevity in areas that you don't change oil frequently. I have good luck with the Redline product line reducing friction loss in the drive line but in the engine when the change interval is done more frequently- you wont regret using the synthetic however there is a argument the cost does not off set the negligible benefits over straight oil or a blend. I usually buy a name brand product that is on sale and bounce between synthetic or blends.

 

Oil!

 

Your 14 and my 15 are the same. I use M1 5w-30 and a toyota filter at 5k intervals. The oil is good for 10k but I
don't like to push it. All oil is NOT the same. Use good oil and the engine will last a very long time. Except for the Gen 3 trucks. They suck.

 

You ask 3 questions. Syn vs dino, syn vs moly syn, and viscosity change.

To answer your post title, no.

Run correct viscosity, run correct SAE rating.

Don't bother running syn unless you are severe duty or are willing to change your OCIs to 10k. Otherwise you waste $ and resources.

 

Spoken like a future Gen 3 owner hating on 4th Gens in 10 years The cycle of life continues.

They might be underpowered but so was the 22RE and that turd of an engine wouldn't die.