Help with a slipping clutch after transmission change.

My bell housing was dry and the inside was wet with oil- go figure. Must have been a very recent leak.

 

Interesting...
I spent some more time looking around the transmission and did find another seep on the seam? of the bell housing, so I took a few picture if that helps.

The first one is right by the starter motor on the drivers side front, second pic is the one is coming from ABOVE the filter, and I know I didn't spill that much when I last changed it. And the last two are obviously the tcase and the underbelly of the bell housing, both leaks are new since last night (100 miles tops), and look like fresh oil.

Starting to feel like switching the engine and drive train oils to synthetic was a really bad idea, at least on this truck. Gonna get it in the shop asap and have them take a look

From what I've read if it's a main seal it could be seriously hurting the engine, can anyone tell me how dangerous/dumb it is to keep driving her with all these leaky spots and slippage?? I haven't noticed any weird noises or high temps, but the clutch slip does seem to be moving into lower gears a little bit (third over revs a tiny bit now if I push it)

Sorry for the essay, but I'm pretty worried about this since things are springin up all over the place.

 

Also I know she's looking rough under there, this baby was rescued from New England last fall, so besides the new frame everything is pretty rusty already.

All I see for the clutch adjustment is the hydraulic cyonder on the outside of the bell housing. Is there a separate adjustor for it or is that not possible with the hydraulic cylinder??

 

That last pic looks ominous for the clutch- Looks like you will have to replace those seals when you take offf the tranny,

 

I would look at T-SB-0066-11, this service bulletin shows you're not alone with a premature failure. You do have the 4 cylinder engine correct?

 

He is driving a 2005 Tacoma. It is 12 years old, no where near a premature failure of a wear item.

 

Was the clutch slipping before the fluid change?

 

Yeah although I wish that was it, this truck has 106,000 miles on it so I doubt I'll get much from the dealership even if that is the problem

Not at all, it seemed totally fine before the fluid switch. The transmission had started to get a little notchy especially with the colder mornings which is why I changed it out, but everything else seemed fine, the clutch felt like it had plenty of life left. Started slipping RIGHT after the change (within 20 miles)

I's it possible that low fluid could cause this? I filled it til it was coming out of the hole, and jacked it up to make sure it was full but when I looked this morning it took another quarter to half a quart ( I'm already about half a quart past the Toyota spec for the trannys supposed fluid capacity.)

Got more red line coming asap but could it be something as simple as very low oil?

 

Not trying to be pessimistic but the transmission fluid level should have no bearing on whether or not the clutch slips

I stand by what I said earlier. It is a strange coincidence that the slipping started happening after the fluid change, I'll agree with you there. But still bet on the clutch.

 

If you lost a quarter to a half a quart of oil you have a pretty good leak going somewhere...

 

Yeah at this point I'm pretty convinced I'm going to need a new clutch and to swap out the seals while I'm in there (obviously all the bearing's too)

Anyone have any favorite clutches for the 2nd Gen 2TR-FE's? Id like to get something beefier than the original, and hopefully keep it under 350, but neither marlin crawler or act seem to make one for 2ng gens

 

I guess I shouldn't have used the word premature, I was simply stating they have a known issue with updated parts shown by the TSB which never implies any warranty.

 

Aftermarket options for the 2TR-FE are limited. LCE has their own line of clutches. URD sells Competition Clutch. If you want OEM, then RockAuto will have what you need.

 

Thanks for the info man, that's too bad but it does make sense for the 4 cyl.

I've been reading that the Napa clutches are a decent option, but I'm seeing two on their way site for the 2TR:

The Napa brand one which goes for 140, and an OEM spec made by Daikin for almost 300. Does anyone have any experience with either of these, I'd know if the cheaper one is as capable as the Daikin?