Ordered the Magnuson SC from URD. No Plans for the 2.2 Pulley, do I "need" the 7th Injector kit?

I agree, it's a nice to have. Problem is, I personally don;t have AF ratio experience so I wouldn't know what which readings were bad and which ones were good. Guess that will all come in time.

Id love to hook up with the guy who did your tune, so when you have a minute to forward his info, that would be great!

Side note. Who should I pick up the boost and AF gauges from?

 

He didn't do any additional tuning for me but he did install the whole kit (7th, ecu, fuel pump, spark plugs, etc.) for an extremely reasonable rate. He does a lot of work for guys on here in our area, I'll pm you when I get to work...about to head out here in a few min.

 

Great, thanks!
Shoot, if the price is right I wouldn't mind paying a knowledgeable person to install the 7th injector kit

Just thinking out loud here, maybe installing the AFR gauge isn't the best idea to stay under the smog check radar here in CA. I would imagine any smog tech that gets in my truck and see's an AF gauge, might start asking questions ya know?

 

Another question.
Let's say I install the SC and the 7th injector kit. If I wanted to remove the SC down the road, will the truck still drive fine leaving the upgraded fuel pump in the tank or is it best to totally remove all the 7th injector stuff?

If I try to remove the upgraded fuel pump, I will have a fuel line that is now 1" too short right?

 

I don't think it would set off any alarms, an AFR gauge is good to have even if you aren't running any fuel management systems...a lot of people run it even with only the supercharger. And being that the Magnuson s/c is CARB certified now, you shouldn't have any issues with smog as far as that goes.

If you ended up removing the supercharger down the road, it would still run fine with the high flow fuel pump. There was a guy on here not too long ago that got the 7th kit before he got his supercharger and installed the fuel pump first. Of course you can't install the 7th because it plugs into the supercharger, but you could do the fuel pump no problem I reckon. I'm not sure about the spark plugs, those I would wait on until you do the supercharger.

 

Ok, I'm probably just being paranoid

Good to know, because once I put that fuel pump in I'm not going to want to remove it. haha

 

so is the 7th injector kit better than a meth injection kit?

i am in the same boat and am looking for fuel upgade system for my supercharger setup.

7th injector seems to be the same cost as the best/most expensive meth injection kit out there.

which 1 is better for these supercharger systems.

 

Nice meeting up with you, now your curiosity is satisfied with how a supercharger with methonal injection transforms the Tacoma motor,

 

They both have pros and cons
If your at sea level the 7th injection for sure
If at heigh altitude the methonal kit
Ideally both
A very good snow methanol kit progressive stage 2 is 500.00 and pretty easy to install and not time consuming, very straight forward
7th injection is 1000 and fuel pump needs replacing ECU modified and is time consuming and will not work
if you have an EGR like me.
7th injection you can tune the ECU
Methonal kit does not adjust once it has been tuned
7th injection sprays gasoline on rotor bearing, so bearings probably have a shorter life span
Methonal kit sprays water and methanol that cools the supercharger lowers temps by 100 degrees
Methonal kit you will not have a heat soaked supercharger, 7th injection gasoline cant cool the supercharger 100 degrees like a methonal kit.
Methonal kit you have denser air, intercooler type air
Both of these systems would be idea working together

 

The 7th injector also cools the s/c (according to URDs website) but the methanol kit does a much better job of that. I've heard mixed opinions on the effect of gasoline on the rotors over time, some say it wears the rotors others say they're unaffected because they are coated in Teflon and the gasoline isn't as corrosive in that small of a quantity to be considerable. At the end of the day it's up to you, running both would be ideal if you have that kind of coin. Methanol kits are cheaper to afford for sure. The URD 7th kit comes with new spark plugs and a fuel pump which is reflected in the price of course.

 

Dude, riding in your Taco, was a BLAST!

 

Upgrade the aged fuel pump, and most definitely change your fuel filter! If those haven't been done.

 

Here is a good link with lots of info, this guy has had both the 7th injection and the methanol kit.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/...tion-kit-writeup-get-10hp-under-150-a-222254/

 

Quick thread update.

Installed the Supercharger on Friday and couldn't have been easier. I think it took me 3 hours and that's with going over everything very carefully and cleaning around the areas that I couldn't access without the intake off etc.

Test drive felt good, but at 2k RPM's and heavy on the throttle it pinged like crazy. 91 octane, sea level.

Installed the 7th injector kit yesterday (Sat) which took quite a bit longer. Lifting the bed and installed the fuel pump was the easiest part, it's the careful wiring and hidden location of the PCU that took the most time. So I think the 7th injector kit took me around 5 hours. The most surprising aspect was the stock spark plug gap vs. what the URD instruction book recommended (.043"). So had to regap and widen the plugs quite a bit.

After the URD 7th injector install, ZERO ping at all (including heavy acceleration at 2k). VERY happy and do not recommend installing the SC without that 7th injector kit!

 

Wait, you didn't change the gap on the IK22 plugs that came with the 7th kit did you? They are meant to be at 0.032" (not mm) IIRC. The gap stated in the service manual of 0.043" is only for the stock KTR11 plugs.

 

Yes, I gaped the NGK plugs that were included with the 7th injector URD system to .043 as recommended on page 31 of the URD install manual. Did I misinterpret the manual?

*edit* I meant .043" not .043mm in my previous post

 

You want the smaller spark plug gap, not the larger.

 

But the URD install manual clearly states .043" ?? I'm confused

 

What is Spark Plug Gapping?

Another method of insuring proper spark is through gapping. The term “gapping” means to provide an adequate jumping distance for the spark to terminate. Gapping spark plugs is very important in both non-supercharged and supercharged applications. The average spark plug gap between the electrode and the ground is determined by the engineers that have designed the ignition. Usually, when an engine is converted to being supercharged, the gap is reduced to approximately.032 to .035. This reduction in the gap helps prevent what’s known as “spark blowout" due to the increased amount of fuel and cylinder pressure. The higher the cylinder pressure the harder it is for the spark to occur. The ability of the spark to actually take place is enhanced by decreasing the spark plug gap.

A very common problem that is seen time and time again is an application that runs smoothly until about 3,000 rpm. At that point, the engine usually sputters and the power that was being created has become non-existent. If you find yourself saying, "I can’t get this car to run…I have no idea what’s going on…it’s not running properly..." - Check the spark plug gap! More often than not, once you properly gap your spark plugs, all your worries seem to go away. It really is magic!

Quote from article here;
http://www.superchargersonline.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=27

 

Hi xtianCVMA!