LED Lighting Conversion

That's really odd, my fob works as it should albeit not have the range. When I walk up close to it the interior lights turn on for me locks and unlocks

 

I used all VLEDS and everything works as before.

I suggest you take the bulbs out and go back to stock. Hopefully that fixes your issue.

If not, sorry to hear about the issues. Good luck tracking the problem down.

 

Looking for advice/input on ways to wire side led lights so they come on with dome light or cargo lamp

 

So from what you are saying, I should be able to replace the front blinkers and leave the rear blinkers as incandescent and not have hyperflash issues?

 

Bingo.

Did it last night, worked fine. The rears are dual filament so you'll need to figure out which circuit runs the running lights and add a resistor to the other side if you want to get LEDs eventually.

 

Thanks for the assist @freeriderchad108 !

I wish the OP would update the original post since some of that has been found to be suboptimal. For instance the dome light being too long at 31mm and the underpowered H11 headlights.

I did end up finding that Philips also makes resistors so I bought a set of the

$17 Philips 18957B2 21W Vision LED CAN-Bus Warning Canceller, 2 Pack

21w variety.

They also make a

$16 Philips 5W Vision LED CAN-Bus Warning Canceller, 2 Pack

5w variety which is smaller. @freeriderchad108 do you think the 5w variety would work? Probably cause a lot less heat.

 

so a little lesson in resistors. You made the same mistake as many before you and I'm trying to save you from burning down your truck.

The wattage rating has nothing to do with anything but it's ability to handle heat. A 12v power supply with a 6ohm load equates to 50w of heat given off by the resistor. If you have a 12v power supply and a 6ohm load/resistor and it is rated for 5w, it will burn in a smokey enraged pixel fairy fashion.

The thing you should be looking for in a resistor is its load rating (wattage) and it's resistance (ohms). Them math is then pretty simple.

Watts = Volts * Resistance

If Watts < Volts * Resistance; you should be fine

If watts > Volts * Resistance; you need a higher watt rated resistor at the same resistance.

If Watts = Volts * Resistance; it's going to get very hot during continuous use. I'd look for a higher watt rated resistor at the same resistance.

 

Thanks! Glad I went with the higher wattage resistors then!

 

I'm glad you looked at my response! don't wanna see a burned out taco posted next week

 

A year later, how has this worked out for you?

Those H11s are supposedly for fogs only, so I'm curious how they worked for low beams.

 

Sylvanias LEDs have always been my favorite. On the pricey side but I feel worth it

 

I'm in the process of doing a complete Philips and Sylvania install. I'll write something up when I'm done.

 

Anyone have tips for the front side markers? I can't get my hand in there from above.

 

Hey @808HITACO, did you ever figure out how and fix your issue?

 

Thanks so much for these pictures and the write-up! This made it so simple and worked perfectly.

 

So I installed Philips 7443 LED turn signals and resistors in the tail lights. No hyperblink at all.

Then I installed Sylvania 7440a LED turn signals in the front without resistors and I get hyperblink. Wondering if I just need to bite the bullet and get resistors in the front too. I was hoping to avoid that.

 

I tried the low beam bulbs mentioned in the OP and took them out. I couldn't even tell they were on from the drivers seat. The DRL were noticeably brighter.
Even with fogs on, there was no distance to the lights. I couldn't even get reflection from a license plate on a car 20 feet ahead of me.
Needless to say, they are getting sent back.

 

I have the popular HID kit in 35W, not sure I can mention the vendor and they are great but will try VLEDS micro LED bulbs when one of these hids goes.

 

Welcome.

 

Got the light bar, strobes, ditch, accent, and running board LED's install finished up