Tiffany the Taco

So I've been looking into ways to install a transmission temperature sensor for an aftermarket gauge. The gauge I got uses an 1/8" NPT sensor, like most gauges.

The A340E and A340F use a M14x1.5 fitting that is threaded into the side of the transmission for the output line.
Part number 90407-16009

The end that attaches to the hose uses an M14 inverted flare. Adapting to this would be quite difficult.

https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/fittings/adapters/metric-extensions/af810-m14-02blk


I actually ordered the stock 90 degree union and I am planning on drilling and tapping a hole directly into it. This will not affect the placement of any of the hoses. I am not sure if the wall of the stock fitting will be thick enough for this. If it is not I will try to braze an 1/8" NPT fitting onto it.

EDIT: I was mistaken on the thread size for the transmission cooler lines. They are M14x1.5 and NOT M16. I confirmed this by measuring the 90 degree fitting I got from Toyota.

 

So I got part number 90407-16009, but it seems like it is actually the return line fitting. It was labeled as the outlet fitting on toyodiy.com as well as confirmed by Conicelli Toyota parts department. Looking at the drawing of the transmission lines, it is definitely the rear most line fitting on the transmission. All my research tells me that this is the return line that comes back to the transmission after going through the radiator. The line connects to the driver side of the radiator.

CAN ANYONE CONFIRM THIS IS THE RETURN LINE?

So now I have a change of plans. The only difference between the outlet fitting and inlet fitting seems to be the length of the runner where it threads into the transmission. The outlet fitting is longer to clear the stock transmission sensor. I ended up ordering the Vibrant Performance 10597 fitting to couple to my new return line fitting. This appears that it will make it the same length as the outlet fitting and I can replace the stock fitting with this 2 part assembly. I won't know if this will work until I get the part in, which may be next week.

This obviously isn't the cheapest solution, but I wanted something that could be easily added or removed. The stock fittings actually use a captive nut that can be cinched down to lock the fitting in any orientation. I am hoping that I can get the vibrant fitting indexed correctly by threading it into the transmission.

 

Plasti-dipped my roof today. Well actually I used the duplicolor peel wrap of whatever it's called. I only did this because the clear coat has completely failed and I want to keep it from going any further. At some point I may get the roof repainted, but that is still undecided. It's not perfect, but I think it came out alright.

 

Did this yesterday, I just stuck the slip joint into a vise and poured a little bit of ATF into the hole as I drilled. I'd bought two brand new bits for this, in case one broke. But it worked just fine.
x2 on steering improvement

 

Finally got my transmission temperature sensor wired into the output line. I used the parts that I posted above and it worked out. The inlet (labeled as outlet by toyota) union is closer to 90 degrees than the one I was replacing. The whole assembly was also slightly shorter, but it was still able to barely clear the stock transmission temperature sensor. I had to tweak the hard line a little bit to get it to line up, but that didn't take too much effort. I have a small leak where the jam nut connects to the black adapter. I think I just need to spin the toyota union into it further, but that means I have to undo the hard line again, ugh. I'll get to it at some point this weekend...

You can see the comparison here:


After getting it all back together I took a 30 minute drive around town and when I was done the temperature was holding around 200. I let the truck idle once I was back home and it dropped to 190-195.


After that I started installing my transmission cooler. It was pretty straightforward. I went with a trucool recommended by @gearcruncher.
https://amzn.to/3k74SGG


I will be doing the same drive around town in a little bit and will post the results here.

EDIT: Just did the same route around town and I could not get the temperature to go above 170. A 30 degree difference for just around town driving is a win in my book.

 

Here's a picture of the assembly installed. You can see the sender at the top. You can also see how close it is to the stock sensor.

 

Relocated my ECT switch next to the Diff lock switch. Also Installed a modified Land Cruiser Rear Heat Switch to use as an offload light switch. It will be trigger from the high beam but also be able to turn on whenever. To mount these in the dash I had to carefully cut the holes and then epoxy the mounts to the back that I got from the junkyard.

 

Some shots my of Bussmann RTMR fuse/relay box.

 

Painted my front bumper chrome pieces to match the truck. I also coated the plastic part with rustoleum truck bed.

I first sandblasted the chrome, then etching primer, then auto primer, then base color, then 2k spray max clear.
For the plastic I scuffed with red scotch pad, adhesion promoter, auto primer, then truck bed.

 

That bumper came out nice! I've debated painting the plastic section of mine with something as well now that it is so faded. I'll be curious to see how well that bed spray holds up. Nice WOrk

 

If you want a quick solution, just hit it with a heat gun. It will make it look like new!

 

Got my front two front windows re-tinted since the driver side delaminated on me.

 

I got a 55w H3 HID kit and converted my old Hella 500s.

I'll get some night shots later.

 

I've had the rustoleum truck bed on my flares for about a year. They are a little faded compared to the bumper, but they look great otherwise.

 

Hosed her off

 

Yesterday I towed my trailer from Tallahassee to Sarasota and got to test out the transmission cooler. I took US 19 most of the way since it is a little slower and less crazy. I was taking some of my sculptures and plants to my parents house since I will be moving to Philadelphia in November for a new job at University of the Arts.

Once I was cruising around 65-70 in lockup, the temperature would level out around 182 degrees. This is pretty close to my coolant temperature, so that makes sense. The highest it ever got was 200 in stop and go traffic in the towns on the route. Keep in mind this temperature is at the outlet from the torque converter, so it should be the absolute hottest.

The truck did great towing the load and didn't struggle even going up the skyway in St. Pete. And I even got 18 MPG which I couldn't believe. Normally I would get 21-22 on the highway.

 

Got this ARE MX Series truck cap/topper in North Port for pretty cheap. It's made for a regular cab so the curve doesn't match, but it doesn't really bother me that much. I just cleaned all the windows so I can see a little better out of the back. I may try to find another cheap cap with windoors to see if I could swap them out.

 

Put a new gasket on the topper and painted the inside black.

 

Added some Yakima rails to the topper. Used 54" ones and they just barely fit.

 

Love your build!

I got a question for you: what kind of perforated sheet did you use for your grill, and do you notice any significant reduction in light output from the Hellas because of it? I want to Satoshi my grill as well but I'm on the fence about what kind of material to use. Don't want something too transparent, but also don't want a light blocker. Thanks!