Turbo BS Thread

SO I received communication back regarding the 2TR manifold & DP set (directly from the manufacturer that OzBoost uses) that the set is $275 USD plus shipping, which even if it were $100 to ship, it's still cheaper than going through OzBoost. Last quote I got from OzBoost was $450 for the manifold and $150 for the DP plus shipping! I've attached the screenshot of the communication, because I'll probably pull the trigger on this next week! Hope this info can help people considering adding some 'Murica to their 2.7!

Also, my message to them is a generic price inquiry- the Engrish is second-to-none on Alibaba sometimes hahaha

Choo-choo noises here I come!

 

is that made for a t4 turbo and does it have a spot for a wastegate or was it designed for a turbo withan internal WG? I cant remember. that's a fantastic deal.

 

So when you guys were sourcing your pipe for the exhaust where did you have the most success getting stainless mandrel bends? I’m in the NE so I think stainless is a must to protect from rust

 

I know the OzBoost kit uses a T28 flange turbo that's internally gated. Once I order and receive the manifold and DP, I'll decide what turbo to go with and weld new flanges if need be. I kinda want to go external gate, just to be more annoying lol.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T25-T28-TO-...ash=item5ae2d28fec:g:QosAAOSwTapV4PBE&vxp=mtr something like this would save you from having to cut up the manifold and it would be great if there was enough room between the plates to ad a wastegate. if there is enough head space you could just get those two different plates and have your own adapter made with enough space to ad a waste gate flange like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-to-T4-Tu...ash=item1eb6c6b63a:g:eYgAAOSwHoFXuZYy&vxp=mtr

 

That's the plan, depending on the size of the turbo and fitment of the downpipe. I figured that I'd use the flange adapters if needed, but depending on how much space I need to adjust will determine if I cut the pipe and weld a different flange on. Personally, I'd rather a welded flange to avoid any possibility of leaks, but the adapters are a nice easy way to get it done.

 

www.stainlessheaders.com

www.burnsstainless.com (look for specials)

www.spdexhaust.com (all components that I have purchased are manufactured in America)

www.reidwashbon.com

 

If you can get a turbo with the turbine housing that has a v-band inlet, that would offer the most flexibility. Bar none.

 

That's my plan! Just still trying to see what turbo would give me good early spool, and offer some headroom down the road.

 

http://www.yonaka.com/Piping_s/119.htm this is where I got most of mine all 316ss

 

Thanks guys

 

Am I correct in understanding that it would be to my advantage to install the AEM FIC before I go boosted, to get baseline readings and such?

 

Yes

 

How much control do you need ?

That is what you need to ask yourself

 

All of it

 

you may wanna rethink they way you word that, or at least be careful what you wish for haha. you will wind up with more in you engine management than the rest of your turbo build put together, also the stock ecu does half way know what it's doing you just need to help it along, so you really just need to be a delegator more so than a control freak IMO

 

Redic.

And, I may have to get one!

 

I’m going haltech so it’s not like I’m deleting the ecu but I do like the control the haltech should offer

 

Sorry i wasnt paying attention, i thought u were the one asking about the aem and then saying "all of it" so i was a little confused... Im really hungry if that is a useable excuse

 

Are you using the PNP harness that Paradise sells with the Haltech or are you wiring it in yourself? Either way you can run the Haltech in parallel with the stock ECU so that you'll have complete control over your injectors, timing, and idle. Your stock ECU can control the other things like speedo, a/c, etc.