03' Taco Drivers power window ~ Intermittently stops on UP only

03 Tacoma Dbl Cab - Drivers window. Always go down, occasionally stops while going up. Wait a little bit and try again and up it goes. Totally random, only does once in a while. Worried it will eventually happen one of these times and NOT go back up. It/s almost as if something has to reset ~ and then it works again. Do these window motors have a thermal overload that locks it out ? Thanks for any and all suggestions !

 

I do believe your year PWM has thermal protection but it shouldn’t be coming on until about 30~45 sec of lock. Try removing the master switch in your door and cleaning the terminals. Also clean terminals of the power window motor and harness. I doubt it’s the motor. Could be something in your master switch.

 

There was a member that posted this recently. www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1997-tacoma-extended-cab-power-window-problem.510644/

This sure sounds like a window motor problem but nowadays with relays and more and more involved than just straight power to the part, I'm sure it pays to follow the procedure. Most manuals can be found online for free somewhere.

edit: I don't see you're particular model here but you may be able to glean enough info. from another model to get started or someone else may chime in with an actual link to yours.
http://workshop-manuals.com/toyota/

 

I would suspect relay or switch. This type of PWM (Asmo gs-34) doesn’t break in a single direction and the thermal protection (PTC) doesn’t start working until it is under constant high current (+20 amp). If the window moves at all you won’t see more then maybe 7 or 8 amps.

 

don't forget the driver's door sees the most rain so yea, certainly look at switch there first.

 

OK Ill give the switch a look. does the switch panel come out without removing the door panel ? Thanks

 

It should. Google then YouTube. I’m sure there is a video.

 

yes pops out from top not sure if you move forward, backward or straight up though and every model I fool with around here is different. i'd have to go out and do mine to see.

 

Yep front pops up, then slide forward. Now what to do with it. Hahah Disassemble a bit and use compressed air to gently blow out contact area ? Will mess with more when I get home. Thanks for the replies and I’ll update more later.

 

I am currently trying to figure out the same issue lol anyways here is my switch panel the two rockers are the passenger switch and the 2 bars on each side (4 total) are the drivers side. All that black gunk on mine came off with eletrical contact cleaner...however my issue persists




Edit: the picture is taken after the protective cover is off the switch panel

 

Mine had the same issue once, for a couple days then it went away on it own. I'll figure it out when it comes back.

 

Didn't have time today.. Ill end up putting this off until it sticks down. And it will be cold. And raining.
Ill post back when I get into this.

 

As post #10 suggests... start with cleaning the contacts on the master switch assembly. That solved my exact same issue.

 

well... the black marks are showing excessive current draw. take the door panel off and remove the glass from the lift mechanism and slide it by hand to get a feel for how difficult it is for the window to slide up and down... on mine, the spot welds that hold the lower rear guide had pulled through and that was causing the binding. I took the rubber guide off the door frame and turned it inside out to see the wear... when it gets to where the "felt" is all gone and you are sliding glass over rubber, thats a problem too. Clean them really good and silicone lube them and let it dry.

While I was in there, I took the door latch assembly off and cleaned it and lubed it... 1 finger lifts the pull to open the door now.

 

^this

 

Same here. Just happened once a couple months ago but no issues since. Keeping an eye on this thread.