I’m Using the Taco Fulfill Mod Addiction While Searching for the Perfect Beer

Last night we went grocery shopping at Fry's. 3 hours at the store. 30 min finding Greek yogurt ,milk, cereal, and some vegetables. 2 and a half hours eating deli chicken at the bar and drinking.

The Fry's bar had Lagunitas Sakitumi (saki to me) on tap. I had a taster, then got a pint. It is unlike any beer I have ever had. They brew it with Sake yeast and rice. Good flavor and at 9% even if you hate it...you will love it eventually.

After 1 of those and 2 Big Wave Longboards, had to have the missus drive the truck home. I'm glad we did not have to Uber from the grocery store. That's just sad. (in a happy way)



Beer Advocate
https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/220/299286/

 

Yep one of my favorite beers for sure too... get it while it lasts.

 

I just got my bed cap on Saturday and installed it yesterday. Nice cap. This cap adds some heft to the tailgate. The spring that lets the tailgate drop slow will hold it so it won’t slam, but it is much faster. Faster than this OCD truck boy likes. I could be a pussy though.

MobTown Bed Cap install

Tools Needed (Standard): T30 Torx Bit

STEP 1: Use a T30 Torx Bit to remove the factory screws from your OEM tailgate cap along the inside of the tailgate. Then lift up on the plastic factory cap slowly working from one end. The cap is held in place with male clips into the tailgate.

My Step—remove the torx screws and use a plastic spatula or a plastic interior prybar. To pop the clips on the OEM bed cap.









2: Use a T30 Torx Bit to remove the two factory screws from your tailgate along the top side.



STEP 3: Using the supplied gasket, install it on the underside of the cap following the curve of the part.

My step- remove 6 in of the adhesive tape cover and run the gasket around the curve of the bed cap using your thumb and fore finger (like you are making an OK sign) pull the remaining adhesive cove off as you need as you move down the gasket



STEP 4: Place the Mobtown Offroad cap on the tailgate lining up all the holes. If you are using the factory plastic tailgate skin, the Mobtown Offroad cap will slip under. If you have our metal reinforcement skin, the cap will sit on top of it.

My step- Install the cap on the outside of the OEM skin. It won’t fit any other way.

STEP 5: Reverse Step 1 and Step 2 and install the factory hardware.

Point the cap on the tailgate with the two second from the outside inside, do not tighten let them float. Close the tailgate and install the 2 top screws. Tighten until the screw cannot go anymore by hand. The gasket should crush a little. Then install the remaining screws on the inside. Be careful not to overtighten. The nut plates are plastic.






Last Step--Drink a frosty beverage. Lagunitas Undercover Shut Down Ale

 

watching for this one! we're kind of sake nuts over here (my wife and me), so this goes to the top of the list. TIA

 

Every once and awhile I get this wild hair about A Cold Air Intake. I know Gen 3’s have one. I just feel there is something more. I was surfing Tacoma World and found this.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sound-clip-urd-ypipe-and-trd-catback.502356/

Instead of spending $450 on the TRD CAI, replace the parts that turn the factory CAI into a TRD CAI. I already got the TRD filter last October. So I bought the Intake Flow Accelerator ($25 from ToyotaPartsDeal.com). The intake is much bigger and not blocked by the mud deflector



Below is the 20 min install.


INTAKE FLOW ACELRTOR INSTALL

(no instructions included with the part, it’s the seat of my pants time)


Parts list


INTAKE FLOW ACCELERATOR Part No.: PTR03-35160-AE
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...ta&Model=Tacoma&Year=2017&Submodel=&Filter=()

K&N Air Filter Refresh Kit (I had it apart, The Air Filter was black)





Tools

12 mm Socket wrench w/ long extension

Carpet knife (I also pulled the charcoal filter)

Coffee (sorry no beer…I did this on Sunday morning at 9AM. Lines must be drawn)


Step 1

Remove Air filter and access and pull 3 bolts to remove the Air Box.



Step 2

Scruntch (technical term) the Intake Flow Accelerator so it looks like this. Place the Intake Flow Accelerator in the hole in the fender with the thin slot facing up.


Scruntch



In the fender



Step 3

Place the Air Box on the Intake Flow Accelerator and bolt it in. Replace the Filter. Cut out the charcoal filter from the upper air box as you want. Close Up shop.



Step 4

Finish with some home brewed Dunkin’ Donuts Coffee. I use to drink Starbucks bagged coffee. The Dunk is cheaper and…

I don't need you to tell me how ****ing good my coffee is, okay? I'm the one who buys it, I know how good it is. When Bonnie goes shopping, she buys shit. Me, I buy the gourmet expensive stuff because when I drink it, I want to taste it. But you know what's on my mind right now? My new Cold air filter.



Mmmm

 

Did you notice any benefit/noise from the accelerator? Seems like a cheap CAI fix haha.

 

Bosque IPA (when in NM)

 

I have not noticed any noise.I feel the truck is running better and smoother. no numbers to back it up though.

After 1 tank of gas the MPG is about the same. The engine seems to be more responsive. I did clean and oil my filter and I have a ETC always on mod. I'm going to give it another tank to let the ECU relearn the new O2 increase (suspected increase) I'm also thinking about setting up my pad with the OBD port to check performance then. Reverse the intake mod and recheck. I should have did this before.

 

I posted this on Mesojdm ECT mod post back in September.

I drove about a week with the ECT switch on. I noticed more power and that I was getting about 1 to 2 more on the MPG, (sometimes 4 more MPG) I was at 17 MPG. With ECT 19 to 20. I have seen 26 MPG I think I was in grandpa mode.

I think the increase is because I did not have to stomp on the gas to get the engine and the transmission up to speed. I drive about 60 miles per day with 15 of that on city streets the rest is on the freeway commuting. My standard freeway speed is 75 and up to 8X MPH. Any slower on the 101 in Phoenix will get you pushed off the road.

I pulled the trigger on parts and built this wire harness to the OP’s spec. Except on the Red power line I put a “Return to Dealer Switch” to take it back to specs. Thanks for the idea Sig916.

Also thanks to Mesojdm (OP) for doing the research and development. The steps below are his gen 1. He developed a solid state gen 2 that no splices and gets power form a fuse tap.

Coupled with my psudo-CAI...I’m really stoked about this.

Adendum--I drove in to work today 24 miles on the freeway and 7 on the city streets. I got 21 MPG and enjoyed the power.


Parts
12V relay--

$10 Absolute RLS125 12-VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A

Absolute RLS125 12-VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A $4.14
Pac TR7 module-- PAC TR-7 Universal Trigger Output Module for Video Bypass $16.50
Switch-- Gadgeter 20 Pcs 12V 20A Amps On/Off/ 2 Position Terminal Round Rocker LED Toggle Switch Blue & Red $10.98 (bag of 10)
16 awg wire
Relay connectors
(other wire maintenance consumables... positap connectors, zip ties, wire tubes, Heat Shrink, splices, etc)


How To:
1)Wire up Relay;
Pin 86: Ground
Pin 85: -->blue wire of Tr7
Pin 30:--> Pink wire on ECT button (pin 4)
Pin 87:--->White/black wire on ECT button(pin 1)

From TR7 - Blue wire to SPDT pin 85;

Blue ground to Aux Power Outlet (cig lighter) ground

green wire and red wire to red wire cig lighter power

Red power wire from the Aux Power Outlet (cig lighter) has a “Return to Dealer Switch”

Power from the Aux Power Outlet has a harness to the “Return to Dealer Switch” Not shown below.


I built the harness as shown above. It is different from OP’s, just my preference. It fit great behind the AC panel. It took about an hour to build the harness and 30 min to splice in.


Install

Step 1

Remove the bezel around the stereo control head. Use a plastic pry bar. It just pulls off.

Then pull the AC panel with a plastic pry bar. Loosen the plastic molding beside the steering wheel and pull easy. This one is a bear. Disconnect the 3 plugs for the Push to Start and AC on the panel.




Step 2

Pull the plugs for the ECT and the Aux Power Outlet. The Aux Power Outlet has quick connect prong type connections in the plug.



Step 3

Positap the Aux power wires for power and ground as per schematic

I was thinking about taping directly into this. I ended up splicing using positap connectors. This would have been easier because ther was little slack in the wires even after trimming the protective wire sleeve back.

Then positap the pink wire and the black/white striped wire as per schematic

The power lead to the TR7 module has a splice where I added a harness for a “Return to Dealer Switch”



Step 4

Drill a hole to start the hole for the “Return to Dealer Switch”. I used my drimmel to make a starter hole (my bit walked a bit. be careful) then used a sanding bit to make the hole bigger until the switch fit. Drill a little see if it fits…Wash rinse, repeat till the switch fits.

Then I fed the 18 in harness through the dash to the ECT on harness. I cut about 4 in off the “Return to Dealer Switch” harness. I wanted to be sure it reached (this was my second attempt at the “Return to Dealer Switch” harness. (The original one was too short)



Return to Dealer Switch” In a inconspicuous spot. It looks like a security system switch.



I followed this up with a 19 MPG warp 10 trip to my local pub. Looking good...

More to come.

 

Beer you say. Spent 3 years stationed in Butte, Montana. Some of the best damn beer in the world comes from that part of the he world. Quarry Brewing, Butte brewing, Muddy Creek. Headframe Spirits. Damn I am thirsty all the sudden.

 

The Toyota explanation of the ECT is it changes just the shift patterns. I have been driving with the ECT on for 7 weeks (6 with the Mesojdm's splice in mod). I have noticed better throttle response and lower gas mileage on short trips (10-13 MPG). My highway mileage is great (20+ MPG). Also wheeling is more responsive. I got 16 MPG for the hour at Box Canyon< I usual get 11 (I was raging on it).

This was the first couple of weeks and before my pseudo-CAI mod above.

About three weeks ago I noticed and increase in millage on short trips. It increased more with the Intake Flow Accelerator and the ECT. I'm pulling 17 MPG on 5+ mile trips in town and 22 mpg on the freeway.

Below is just my opinion...man



I suspect that the ECU is changing fuel and adjusting to the increase in air in the engine. I even suspect that the Atkinson-cycle is curtailed with the ECT on. I have no proof except at low RPM's I feel more power. I also feel that the idle is using more fuel. I feel that these items cannot be explained just through changing shift points. Although, I also have noticed that 6th gear shifts at 75 MPH and remains until 65 MPH.

My thoughts on this is give me the ECT power at while driving and an Atkinson cycling at idle and low RPM. We need a reprogram that incorporates the ECU, gear box and the other tech to give us the best of both worlds. Also, please give us the $25 Intake Flow Accelerator.

Toyota's Explanation and use of ECT powerhttp://www.whiterivertoyota.com/blog/benefits-of-the-toyota-tacoma-ect-pwr-button/

 

I've had Butte brewing and Muddy Creek. I'm thirsty too. Stupid work getting in the way of my drinking.

 

If you ever get the chance again, hit up Quarry Brewing and Headframe Spirits. You won't regret it.

 

have you been following any of the Orange Virus ECU tuning going on? i have the MT, so it's different. but seems as development has come along for the AT's this is the preferred option over the ect mod or ssp. just wondering... I'm not following the AT's much since the MT's got our own tune & thread. but i can say that even with the AT dyno'd tune file ported to the MT's, it is worth paying for. and then some. ultra fun driving over here.

 

I have looked at it. I'm just not looking to spend $750 right yet. I'm also happy the the current status.

My wife drove the truck a few days ago and asked "What did you do to your truck?" She said it drove like her '06 4-Runner. I showed her and explained the mods. She was Air Force too, so she has a clue. About half way through she said "That's hot..." My explanation was over. Just like my story.

 

I bought a Carista from Amazon ($39.99) to see if I could reprogram some of the features of the trucks A/C and lighting. I also wanted to stop some of the nuisance warnings. It worked great.

Below are the items that you can change on your Gen 3.using the Carista OBD II fob with my Galaxy pad. I You also can run engine faults and monitor some outputs from the engine. I purchased the 1 year version for $29. I was thinking about reprogramming other cars.

I reprogrammed the warning beep for locking the doors when a door is open, the seat-belt chime, lane change blinker count, the parking sensor and the AC system. Another tech item that personalized my built for the masses truck.

Doors and Warnings

Blink turn signals when locking/ unlocking with remote

Beep when locking / unlocking with remote

Warn (beep) when the door can’t be locked because it is open

Panic function on remote

Relock doors automatically if you unlock but not open a door

Re-lock doors automatically if you unlock, but don’t open a door within .5 sec t o10 sec

Unlock doors via remote (all or Drivers)

Unlock doors via physical key (1 press or 2 press)

Seat belt warning Ding driver

Seat belt warning Ding passenger

Lane change turn signal auto flasher count

Remote low battery warning

Mute parking sensor when stationary for more that 3 sec

Parking sensor beep volume

Activate parking sensors in neutral

Enable rear parking sensors when Drive or neutral

Dash Display mode

Daytime running lights

Coming home lights duration

Auto headlights activation threshold

Instrument lights dimming sensitivity

Instrument lights restore sensitivity

Turn on interior lights when you unlock doors

Turn on interior lights when smart key is in range

Interior light control


Environmental Sys

Temperature Dial Calibration

Auto On A/C when AUTO button pressed (if needed)

Deactivate front defroster when AUTO button pressed

Open vents to outside air when ignition is turned off

Fan reaches its target…Slow, Med, Fast

 

After I bought my truck we started going to the gym. So one evening I was waiting for the missus and walked into Harbor Freight. I have a truck and already had a money pit. Now I needed tools for the mods. This started my obsession with my garage. I have made it into my sanctuary. Work bench, tools beer fridge even some lawn chairs and a coffee table. I spend a fair amount of time here. On Sundays I set up a TV and watch the game.





This could be a Where’s Waldo seek and find. Can you find all the Harbor Freight tools.



Flags from Jamaica, Ireland, Arizona and Oklahoma University. Extra points for the beer fridge.





Where I mod… and check the mail. Oliver approved.



The lawn chairs and “coffee table” Yup…Harbor Freight's stool.



I have the service cart. It serves us well as a bar next to the beer fridge.



Whats in the beer fridge. Longboard Big Wave, Lagunitas Brown Shugga' & Lil Sumthun', Dos Equis Amber, Yuengling, Coors light (my mother in-law's, she makes me sad)

Also wine for my sister.

 

I just came back from baseball spring training in AZ. I towed my 1680lb T@B trailer through the desert up many hills. I used the ECT setting in “S” and 4th gear. It drive amazing. I was 500 rpms slow but had more power. All the way ther and back, just over 700 Miles it never down shifted into 3rd gear. My average mileage went from 12mpgs to 17mpgs. This is extremely significant. It meant my transmission stayed cool never rising above 199 degrees even on the longest climbs.(I have installed a Scan Gauge II to monitor temps).

It clearly has more torque at lower RPMs. I’m pleased.

 

I researched a new exhaust. I looked at the TRD, MBRP, Magnaflow and Borla. I found the Borla on Amazon for $572. A little pricey but less than the TRD.

My main concern was the sound. I heard the MBRP and Magnaflow was a little “tin canny” and had a drone. I listened to You Tube videos. Pretty useless. Eventually I found a post about the URD Y-pipe and the Borla Cat back. (I cannot find it now). The Post talked about the kit and adding a resonator.

I ordered the Borla and installed it. They even gave me a Borla hat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073FGXL83/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The install was easy and by the instructions. Very easy, especially with the KTI KTI54055 Exhaust Grommet Pliers.

Buy this tool. It removed the muffler hangers in about 20 seconds. I’m really glad to have it.

---------------------------------

First I soaped up the grommet. I drank ¼ of the water bottle, squirted some soap and shook it up. Then I popped a hole in the top and used it like a squirt bottle.

I squeezed some in the grommet where the pin was



Then I used the tool to pop it out. Simple…





I drove to around after the install and thought it was loud. I have noticed a gas mileage increase. I think it is mainly because of me noticing the RPM sound. When I rafe on it, the truck sounds like a race car. Real deep growl with no drone. It hits at about 3000 RPM and winds loud at 5500. I’m happy. More to come on the performance, I have the Intake Flow Accelerator and air filter from the TRD Air Intake. Its TRD Pro'd out

At less than 3000 there is little to no sound. The HOA is happy too. Although, they did hit me up for major maintenance of a vehicle in my driveway. 30 minute install…come on.

I still need to take the missus out. If mamma ain't happy...then nobody is happy.

 

Hey OP! not sure how much brewery exploring you have done around the valley, but my family still lives there and I grew up on the west side out by Buckeye.

If you haven't yet, you need to check out:

- Four Peaks Brewing
- Saddle Mountain Brewing
- State 48
- 8 Bit Aleworks
- Tombstone Brewing

Some of my favorites that I always hit up when I go home.

Cheers!