3.4L Back fires and I need help

So here's the latest update:
I posted my problems and what I've done to the truck on to a local Toyota Facebook page where I got a lot of good ideas and things to check from some people, and one was to check the wiring harness to see if I may have a wire that is grounding its self through the insulation, so I started pulling apart the harness looking at each individual wire for abrasions, specifically the wires going to the injectors and MAF sensor, but I did not find anything and it was getting dark and snowing so I called it a night. Then on my way to work the next morning the truck was running really good (compared to what it was) it was still back firing and hesitating, but not till 3500rpms and not nearly as much.
So I'm thinking that it's somthing in the wiring harness that isn't grounding its self as much because I may have moved the wire a when I was inspecting the harness. I still have not found anything, but I will keep updating

 

Good morning @AK1stGen this makes me think of a wire shorting out on my ‘98 S10 2.2l DD w/ 550k+ . I found a wire rubbing on my valve cover, it looked like a squirrel knawed on it! This had gone on for a while to, I’d changed plugs, wires and such and couldn’t shake the problem. I repaired the wire, put a heavy electrical tape wrap, added a fancy heat shield made out of heavy aluminum foil . Hopefully you’ll find it before long. Good luck.

 

Did you get your fuel gauge fixed? Go back and correct that and make sure everything else looks good down there. Report back later.

 

Nope havnt fixed the fuel gage yet, the temperature has been dropping below 0 and that makes it miserable to work on the truck, but next weekend I'll have a shop to pull it in to.

 

Thunk I found a solution:

 

ha! Someday I hope to be somewhere warmer, but I still have a lot to explore up here

 

Hope you get your issue fixed. I'll be driving my truck up there if all goes well - would love to explore some of AK.

 

I've had a truck where the crank sensor was not throwing any codes, but would drop out at around 3000-3500 dependent on temp. When it dropped out it would missfire and backfire like no other. If you have a scanner hook it up and watch the live data. See if the RPMS fluctuate by a lot when its at the missfire/backfire range, the Tacometer doesnt respond quickly enough so you'll likely not see it without a scanner

 

Let me know when you do, I'll show you around!

 

Thanks, I've considered replacing the crank sensor even though there are no codes, but I'll hook my scanner back up tomarow and I'll let you know what happens