Largest tire size?

Also keep in mind - our front braking system is a single-pot caliper braking system - other Tacoma's are four-pot, and have larger swept rotor diameter. Brakes will overheat more rapidly, and fade sooner.

Not trying to harsh your buzz when it comes to the 5-lug, but a man's gotta know the safety limitations.

 

$4000 is a high estimate. Find deals, buy used, and know people. For everything you want, new tires and a regear. Probably $1500 more or less.

 

I figured the brakes were probably different from the 6 lugs as well. Luckily my camper has a brake system on the trailer to help with that. I plan to get the wiring setup to use it. I haven’t checked to verify yet, but the manual says there should already be a plug-in under the dash on the drivers side to connect a brake control box for a trailer.

 

I’ll definitely be shopping around before handing over any cash if I decide to do a full lift setup with the suspension upgrades and regearing. It’s something I would like to do, but at the same time I would hate to put that kind of money in something that is going to be a work truck.

 

Do you plan on off-roading it? Regearing is honestly optional. Highway speeds, off-roading, Inclines, passing speeds, etc. Bare in mind you can do without the regear if you run high speeds in 3rd gear. I ran 32s on stock gearing fine. I personally like going fast and acceration so I regeared to 4.56.

 

No real plans for off-road. I mainly just want a larger tire to get more rubber on the ground and to add a small amount of lift. Only plans for the truck is some minor work hauling some things in the bed and I’m considering towing a small camper that’s only around 2800lbs.

 

4.56 on 32" diameter tires? Are you running 32x11.5R15's or similar? I'm thinking at 4.56 with that amount of rubber down, your truck should now be pretty much capable of climbing trees. 32" calls for 3.93 with the 3.31 manual, and 4.30 with the automatic.

I'm 'mildly' overgeared at 4.10.. with 31.7" tires it calls for 3.93 for my manual, also.

With my limited driving experience in it so far, it's the perfect match.

 

33x11.5x15 4.56

My truck still struggles in some areas from all the weight added, but for the most part it's amazing.

 

Just got some Cooper Discoverer AT3's in 235/75/15. Gave me about 2 inches of lift. No black box mod yet, might look into it this weekend.

Speedo reads ~5mph less than actual at highway speeds. Anyone try to correct the speedo and odometer with larger than stock tires?

 

Stock wheels? That's the largest tire you can run with no bumping/rubbing and no modifications. But it only gave you 1" over the OE 215's. Yes, it's a 2" larger diameter, but the 'lift' is based on radius.

Should not be needed unless you have aftermarket wheels with poor fitment.

AFAIK it can only be done with a Hypertech Speedometer Recalibration Device Part Number: HYP730107

 

Thanks for the info, Billy. Yes, they are the stock steel wheels and the truck rides much smoother now. I will look into that part.

 

Just an FYI .. your total height gain is 1". Your tire diameter increased by 2" from OEM to upsize - you then divide that by half to get the difference in ride height.



Black-box mod is really only needed if you start pushing tire diameter above 29.3" with no spacer/aal kit. You should be able to run as-is without removing them at this time.

There are electronic 'speedo healers' out there - not a cheap solution at around $200.00 or more. The speed sensor is on the output shaft of the transmission, and counts rpm's of the driveshaft to calculate speed. A corrective regear to the final drive ratio that the new tires call for, would correct the speedometer mechanically.


I am mildly overgeared, so my speedometer is still off.

 

Hack -- is there a way of calculating the extent to which a re-gear will correct the speedometer?

 

In theory - putting in the correct gearing for the correct tire size, should be the correction.

I believe i indicated before that I noted that my speedo was off, immediately after my regear. I do have a differential in indicated vs actual - but in the opposite direction - it's indicating that i'm going slower than i really am.. I am mildly overgeared (calls for 3.93 vs 4.10). My powers of observation are definitely fallible.

My driveshaft is rotating faster/engine revs are up a little higher than with the original OEM tire setup and gearing - and the speedo is reflecting that correctly.

 

@HackD When you wrote about 29.3 working on similar bs/offset, are you referring to factory bs/offset or more neutral/negative offset?

 

@Clearwater Bill -

Can you elaborate on "poor fitment"?

I am looking to upsize from stock 215s to 235/75R15 or something similarly sized on 16" wheels...

Just purchased Pro Comp 7069 15x8 (-19 offset) a little over a month ago, then found out 235s won't fit properly on 8" wheels...

So, I'm thinking 15x7 or 16x7 would be better...but just wondering if a more neutral/negative offset helps or hurts the fitment on upsized tires. My thinking is more neutral / negative offset would allow larger tires to have more clearance. Is that right?

 

OP, did you end up pulling the trigger on new wheels and tires?

I'm in a similar situation with our '07 2wd AC...except we're going to be doing some occasional off-roading in Baja...

Other than that, it's our daily driver/ utility vehicle...

Did you have any luck sourcing wheels that will clear our brake calipers?

P.S. - Thought occurred to me earlier that it would be nice to have a post/sticky with aftermarket wheels that will fit our 5 lugs...not sure if that animal exists at the moment...

 

The original OEM offset/backspacing figures.

 

10-4, HackD.

Does a more neutral / - offset help clear calipers and allow for a bigger tire?

I'm thinking it would, but I'm trying to understand the offset - tire size relationship.

In my mind, I'm thinking that if you bump wheels out with a neutral or neg. offset (0 to -19), the further out you mount the wheel, the more room the tire has for clearance in the wheel well.

Is that correct or am I not getting it?

 

That is pretty much correct. It does comes at a potential cost.

The 5-lugs use what are considered "FWD Passenger/light van" rims, in terms of offset and back-spacing figures - they are designed to sit closer under the fenders, more integral with the rest of the running gear - than "LT" rims, which are designed to bring the rims out closer to the fender edge. The 5-lug rims are designed for the weight/centripetal forces involved with the more inset rim assembly - so if you start pushing out the rim/tire package in distance and weight, and the axle stub bearings experience additional stresses not designed for... that's the cost.

I went into my rims, at a time i was in need of emergency upgrade of tires - found a package cheap and went with it. I had some concerns going in to the additional upgrade of 235/85R16 (from 225/75R16) about excess contact with chassis/suspensions inboard, and had 1.5" spacers at the ready - but the new tires work with minimal rubbing at hard lock. Not a concern except for entering or exiting my own driveway carelessly.

Look into Ford Ranger spec rims - they are probably a happy medium in terms of offset and backspacing in the +10 to 0 offset range.