Long Travel BS Thread

Yep it should

 

Dammit man, messing up my game plan with that! What are your bypasses? I'm planning to get some king triples.

 

mines a conventional style wishbone 3 link since I ditched the stock fuel tank so i might not be the best reference. I believe Im 49.5" on the links, stock style 2 piece driveshaft, off hand i cant remember angles.

 

Thanks Cliff, that's still helpful.

 

Then why even bother?

 

Just a set of Fox 2.5x8’s triples with a piggyback reservoir

 

A wishbone upperlink, personally I think works better than the two seperate uppers on our trucks cause you can't really get the correct "perfect" geometry for em. Less link steer too. I'm building mine to be a wishbone style setup too, along with my Roomies racetruck...

 

So you are going to link yours? I was curious if you were going to do something with the rear since your upgrading the front

 

Saw my new setup today. DB lift with lift spindles, camburg ucas and probably some 2" blocks in the rear on 33's. Probably about 6-8" of lift in the front and uca looked like it was almost at full droop. Wish I could have gotten a picture.

 

Yep.... I have the trailing arms all cut out already.... just got to get more parts

 

Sweet!!! Gonna be one beast of a truck when done. Well it's already a beast

 

Getting close to starting the reassembly process....out with the old(on the ground) in with the new new

 

Anyone ever used safety wire instead of the clamps for outer cv's? I've been having issues with my outer (large side) clamp not being tight enough and under hard driving with turns, it's popped off twice now. Both sides on tonights run. I was thinking of using a double wrap of safety wire instead, since there's not enough room to use a hose clamp and clearly the proper cv clamps don't get tight enough.

 

Safety wire is most likely going to cut the boot... use those baby hose clamps?

 

Tube bender and die would set you back about 6 bills. Then just your material.

 

That's my only real big concern with using it. I have used it hundreds of times from wiring bolts for race bikes to a more applicable use in this situation of wiring handlebar grips on mx and road race bikes, so I know the feel and what I'm looking for in the rubber when setting the tension, but on grips, you aren't necessarily worrying about a component that is being flexed and turned side to side so much, just a rider with a death grip on their motorcycle. I am currently using this style of clamp https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ATM803407291 and even after the last time of stretching it a smidge to get to the next tighter slot, both of them pulled off tonight. And I rub where you clamp these at the LCA at droop

 

And regardless of if it's a good or bad idea, I am probably gonna do it at least to get me to and from work tomorrow since both sides popped off and I don't have any spare clamps laying around to throw on in the morning. Plus I need it fixed by Saturday am to go do some rock crawling. I blame my bad light bar relay and @dirtaddiction for inviting me to hang out tonight. If i would have had lights, I wouldn't have fallen so far behind that he had to stop to wait for me, and I wouldn't have done 70mph through a section that I had previously been comfortable doing 50mph through.

 

Just put on the small hose clamps, the worm gear style ones

 

Not enough clearance at the lca otherwise I would.

 

I had the same problem with clearance to the LCA, regular worm drive clamps were dry humping the LCA badly at droop. Solo advised me to add a 1/4" spacer between the LBJ adapter and the bottom of the spindle and it opens up a ton of clearance. Paul said that they often weld on a spacer in that location during builds but that a loose spacer with the correct size longer bolt is fine.

Here is a photo from when I was mocking it up with washers to figure out how much of a spacer I needed. You will need to buy 10mm longer grade 10 bolts too. I found 1/4" motor cycle axle spacers online, 10mm longer bolts locally but in black oxide still need to replace with some zinc.

Note - this will lower your front end 1/4", NBD that's what all those threads on the shock body are for.