Home Improvement Today?

Question for you, if you were in my situation, my walls are 92" high, would you hang your 4x8 sheet's vertically? or horizontally still?

 

Horizontal , ceiling first then upper wall sheet , trim bottom wall sheet

 

Did my whole basement this way....it’s actually less joints.. downfall is to get structural integrity.... but it’s a basement... sorry been drinking... this makes no sense.....but to me!

 

That sucks! I hope your insurance is being nice and paying.

Both of my garage doors are insulated and skinned on both sides. Stronger for things like high winds, quieter, occcasionally I'll heat it in the winter thats when it's really nice to have insulated. I'm sure it improves home value as well.

 

I havent even talked to them. I got my policy from a broker so I plan to call her monday and see what (or if) the deductible is. The valve on what they took was only ~800-900 so not to bad all things considered. They also took the bigger stuff so less ot have to to move in another year lol.

Probably depends on the area. A lot of homes by me dont have insulated garages so adding it to the door doesnt really make sense.

 

Thanks for the tip/advice, if I end up doing it this will be the approach I take.

 

Had the whole gang at work today , used every one of them too lol

 

Is there any living space above? I've added insulation to 2/3rds of my garage (unconditioned attic area that I can turn into some storage space too) to stop the crippling heat from radiating into it from above and heating up the whole garage in combination with the metal doors that also radiate a shit ton of heat into it. Then the heat also rises up underneath the the 2 bedrooms above the other 3rd of the garage, which is a higher bay. From what I've seen demonstrated with thermal guns, foil coated garage door insulation can drop the radiant heat by 20 degrees F. Also, won't mind it being a bit warmer in winter.

 

single story ranch style.

good thinking though i would not have even considered that.

 

We almost died in this new house during a historical heat wave this summer. Master bedroom was the hottest room in the house, AC was running round the clock at times. That should be a very rare occurrence where I live. I was highly motivated. Discovered that above the bedrooms was only insulated to R fucking 19. And that soffitt venting is far from ideal. Local recommendations are twice that, R38 minimum. Discussed approaches with 3 contractors. Ended up placing some radiant barriers strategically, also.

 

R19 ceiling ?

 

Yes. Cellulose.

 

That probably worked well

Our wall code is R-22 haha

 

Finished up the bench assembly and fitting

I added some #20 biscuits to beef up the mitre glue joint and ripped a 1 1/2"x 1 1/2" rabbet in the back lower edge

The rip that came off the rabbet then was screwed to the wall which provided support for the full length of the back edge of the bench and allowed me to attach the bench by screwing through the rip and into the underside of the bench with some 1/4" x 2 1/2" GRK RSS screws




Mitre joint glued and clamped up




Out of the clamps and fitted to the concrete floor , happy with the grain wrap on the end



Bench fixed in place and concrete backer board installed underneath




Under the window there will be a shallow cabinet box that fits between the fixed gable and the filler on the wall

All the backer board gets a 24" x 48" porcelain tile , the area under the fireplace between the cabinet fixed gable and the waterfall glulam end acts as the wood box

There will be a matching piece of the 24"x48" porcelain that will be let into the top and front edge of the glulam in front of the fireplace , the same width as the chimney , to act as the non-combustible hearth

 

I think I'd look at prevailing winds also. Personally, I believe it's worth it to insulate, especially being attached, unless it faces east. Just my 2 pennies

 

Why east what am i missing here LOL

 

Just because our prevailing winds come from the west, so I wouldn't worry as much if it faced east. Except maybe during summer sun. IDK, makes sense in my head

 

Anyone have recommendations for certain brands for saw blades? We deal with mainly aluminum, around 4" hollow posts. Our main problem is I feel like we employ a bunch of idiots who don't pay attention (see below) so I just buy the general multi purpose "metal"
cutting Diablo blades because these guys will eventually run them through lumber, etc. Every once in awhile a coworker will recommend a blade that costs 2x as much but its made to do a specific metal but I don't buy them because I know they will come back from a jobsite thrashed.

See below. We were extremely busy one week so I basically had to go out and buy a new 12" miter saw, table, and blades for a 1 panel install in Downtown LA @ midnight. I get a call from the foreman at like 2 in the morning about how the saw is broken and the blade is missing like 7 teeth. He makes it work, and I inspect the saw the next day and the idiot left stock on the table and it sucked it into the blade channel and he didn't bother to clear it.

 

Damn. Im no where near the level of craftsmanship of ANY of you, but damn. Even I know better! I was doing a volunteer build project running the miter saw cutting porch spindles. Guy working on the chain link fence came to me and asked if I could cut the top tube rail of the fence for him... uh. no.

 

So I decided my attic is capable of holding non-heavy storage items. Heavier items can be strategically placed. The next step is to decide on insulation.

Currently there is no insulation in the walls or ceiling but it does have an insulated door. Id like to add some insulation up there before putting a floor on part of it. Is that messing with the performance of the insulation? Any ideas to put a floor down and not mess with that part?