TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

See

 

Back to what is important.

AFR sensors are designed to be more precise than oxygen sensors, but the issue here is that in doing so, it also results in decreased life expectancy. They last way less time in comparison to an oxygen sensor.

In short, they are shit. Precise, but shit.

Oh and to @Torspd and @Lucario Runner it is true. Increasing rev limit on an engine is usually asking for issues anyways. If you introduce boost, you are only turning the engine further into a ticking time bomb ready to blow.

 

Back when I had a stock trd sc my afr gauge maxed out at 10.0. So im pretty sure that helped damage mine

 

Until built to withstand increased stresses.

 

Mine has been going to 9.3 on occasion every here and there. My sensors are still golden. 83K. You probably just had defective sensors that died too quickly.

Yep, but at that point you have already dug into the motor deep enough to correct such. (in some cases one would call it deficiencies) For the people who have not, you really should not be increasing the rev limiter and introducing boost combined unless you want to punch a hole in the block and lose a piston.

 

Guess who gets their 2.3 pulley tomorrow.

 

Speaking of pulleys, what's going on with the 2.5?

Been away for the past week so I have a lot of catching up to do.

 

I still have it. Still running it. I love it, but I want to try out this 2.3. If I like it enough, I'll keep it on.

 

Cause HP is an addictive drug.

 

Sorry, clarity isn't my valentine this early in the morning. I meant about the GB.

Are you upgrading anything for the 2.3 or are your current mods sufficient for the smaller pulley?

 

B madd

 

Did a little burnout that I recorded. Saw my revs go to just under 6000 even though I am an auto. So I emailed scott and he said we can set whatever rev limiter I want. Pretty cool and didnt know the ucon could do that.

 

This thread blew up quick! I see that ratiotek kit is only about 30$. Sounds like a great investment. Any downside to it? Also what exact valvebody do we have? I see I can buy a valvebody for an a750, a750e fairly cheap off ebay. Why not just use the ratiotek on that to save downtime on the truck?

 

Thats that route I took

 

This is the style valve body you want.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H...36_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=valve+body+a750

If you are looking at it from this position, from left to right:

Green connector, black, then gray.

If you see those connectors you know you are looking at the right valve body.

 

Easier than the bare valve body on eBay yet twice the cost. I'd say is worth it as it's less to f**k up.

And you're happy with the difference?

 

He hasn't gotten it done yet. I am waiting for his parts so I can modify them and then send them back to him when done.

I AM happy with the difference though I'll tell you that much. It seriously wakes the truck up a lot.

 

Didn't take any special equipment to install? Just precision?

 

There is a thread on here that has the directions. You pretty much are adding 3 or 4 springs and drilling 3 holes from what I have seen. I might be able to dig up the post for you if you’d like.