Rear suspension upgrade. Very close, clarity on details?

I've been poking around TW, resources shared here and elsewhere, learning and gathering parts slowly for upgrading the rear suspension on my 2002 Xtracab 4wd 4cyl SR5 for about 6 months now. I'm looking for input from those who have completed this process on this truck or similar trucks. Let me break it down for you. I have these parts now ready to install:

Bilstein 5100s w/bushings
the (4) bolts w/washers to replace old hardware
(8) washers to replace old hardware (for shocks)

OME Leaf springs
OME greasable shackles
OME spring bushing kit to use with OME greasable shackles
(2) stock bump stops (one of mine was missing when truck was purchased, other one fell off when I looked at it)

I also have a 1" block lift kit that I initially bought when I was only going to do the rear shocks, before the stock leafs turned to a frown face, or actually more like this emoji :/

Now I think I probably won't need the 1" block lift if I'm installing the OME leafs. Am I correct in my conclusion here? Do I still need the 1" block lift? Could use the U-bolts that came with it either way, or sell it and get shorter u-bolts?

I'm thinking to get a couple of leaf spring main eye bolts, just in case.

Any idea if I need the extended brake lines? It seems like the amount of lift makes the extended brake lines unnecessary, but I am not sure.

Rear brake proportioning valve kit? Might it be unnecessary as well with this amount of lift?

How about that OME exhaust bracket? Seems like that is needed with these leafs, or people cut the exhaust pipe short. I'd kind of like to avoid cutting the pipe.

Any other input? I'm trying to be the most prepared I can be in a practical sense before I decide to start this job.

For some reference points, I have a fiberglass high top camper top (seems super heavy - could it be 300 lbs?), hitch (50 lbs?), bike rack more often than not, with bike (75-100 lbs?) and often have 200-300 lbs of tools or other objects on a regular basis, as well as haul heavy loads in the bed maybe 1-2 times per month as needed. Those heavy loads are what wonkified the stock leafs. I often drive on dirt roads that are in various stages of disrepair, and some abandoned town roads, as well as a very steep and treacherous offroad old logging path that increasingly gets worse, which I drive on 2-3 times a week up to daily during some short bursts in the summer for work and fun. That stretch of road is mainly my intention for improving the suspension on the truck.

I appreciate all the sharing of knowledge and experience

 

It looks like you have done your research!

Extended rear brake lines - definitely not a bad idea - I'm not sure if they're necessary with this amount of lift though.

I'd avoid the 1" block. You'll be getting 2-2.5" lift (If I remember correctly) from the OME Dakars already, and a block lift will make the truck ride rougher.

You will want a brake proportioning valve relocation bracket - It is a good idea with any lift. Bay Area Metal Fab has a nice one for $20 (I got mine from them for $10 due to a minor powdercoating defect) or you can make your own by measuring out and drilling a few holes in a piece of steel for the less expensive route.

As far as I know, you need the exhaust bracket if you don't cut the exhaust pipe.

Glad to see someone's doing their research and actually informing themselves before buying things, unlike so many people nowadays!

 

OK, I'm getting a set of new U-bolts so I can keep the 1" block lift kit as one set to sell off later.

Going to order the main eye bolts. Getting the brake proportioning valve relocation bracket after reading up on it and seeing some pictures. Thanks for the tip!

I'm starting to lean more towards cutting the tailpipe at this point, but so far the pictures/videos I've seen where people have cut the pipe have been with the spare tire removed. I'm sure there are people who have a cut pipe with the spare tire on the hangar. If its cut the way I've seen it, the end of the pipe is awfully close to the spare tire. Has anyone had any sort of negative side effects with the distance between the spare and the end of the pipe? Probably fine? My spare is a 265/70/R16 never used, so full tread (though it is still a 15 year old brand new spare tire). I've got to do some work on a rotted bracket on the exhaust I just noticed yesterday, so maybe I'll just slice off the end while I'm under there.

I think I might risk waiting on the extended rear brake lines until after the install to see if I need them... unless someone can convince me otherwise !

 

Not sure about the bilsteins extended length, but it they're close to the length of the 60062/65 nitro chargers you'll want to go with the extended rear brake line.
I also recommend dumping the rear exhaust after the diff. If you angle the cut just right it won't affect the spare tire.
I also recommend the axle relocation leaf plate in a 3/4-1" offset. Dakar's like to move the rear 3/4 to an inch forward. The plate will move the axle back and center the wheel in the wheel well.

Good choice on the Dakar's. I have about 40K on my pack and about to add a fourth AAL to accommodate my trucks added weight

 

Oh and you may want to think about axle shims or carrier bearing drop, or a combination of both. If you have vibes after the install. You can reuse ubolts if not re-torqued at the 500 mile mark...

 

Long journey to this point, but today I had the rear suspension installed including everything I said I had in this thread, plus the later purchased BPV and minus the 1" block kit (anyone want to buy a new 1" block kit?!? Selling!). I had a trusted mechanic install it. I didn't deal with the exhaust yet, and actually just forgot about it before I went to have the parts installed today. The leaf spring is resting on the exhaust and seems to be the source of this new knocking noise during articulation. Still going to slice that shit off. Now I see clearly the need for an exhaust bracket relocation or extension, and how cutting off the exhaust at the spare seems a much better idea to me. Anyways, the rake from doing only the rear suspension and doing nothing to the stock front suspension isn't as aggressive as I thought it might be, but can definitely see the difference and feel the difference of the angle of sitting in the drivers seat while driving. I think the likely 250-300 lb fiberglass, steel reinforced hightop cap probably calms down the lift a little. Going to wait until it settles a little bit and install new Bilsteins in the front later. Will post pictures soon !