Damaged oil seal right out of the box?

Just got a wheel bearing/hub assembly and it looks like the oil seal got damaged during shipping. I’ll post picture below, but should I get a new seal or will it be ok? Also what would be the correct name for this seal? Axle seal? Will other seals of a different brand work for this? If so I may just get a national or oem seal. Advise?

 

I will let the experts make the call but I think that would be ok if you bend it back. It’s not an oil seal it’s a grease seal

 

I agree it will be fine but let's tag a pro @nj636

 

@BamaToy1997 I will tag the other pro

 

Thanks for the quick replies, guys. And looking forward to seeing what nj and bama say! I would think it’d be fine too but I like making sure before I bold on new parts

 

This may be a dumb question but I’ve never replaced wheel bearings before. Where exactly does that grease seal go? I know the o ring goes over the assembly where my finger is pointing but where does the seal go? Over the top of that? Kind of a press fit type situation?

 

That seal goes into the back side of the bore in the spindle and seals to the body of the CV joint.

 

So to install that seal, do you have to detach the spindle in order to get to the backside to install that seal? Ive seen vidoes of people installing new hub assemblies and they just unbolt the old one and then bolt on the new one with just the o ring on. I didnt see them put this new seal on. Just confused.

 

you can see the seal goes behind the spindle
I guess you don't have to replace it but your already there
The seal is why I had to replace my bearings. the seal goes bad and lets in water/mud and ruins the bearings quick

If you replace it make sure the little spring doesn't come out. those springs can be a pain

 

First you remove the wheel bearing assembly. That is done by removing the wheel, rotor, and caliper. Then removing the dustcap, cotter pin, and retainer. Then using a 35mm socket and breaker bar, remove the CV axle nut. Once that part is done you can loosen the 4 mounting bolts for the bearing and remove the bearing assembly.

Once that is done, getting to the seal is pretty simple. Remove the two lower bolts holding the lower ball joint assembly to the spindle. This allows you to pull the spindle out slightly and slip the CV axle out of the back of the spindle. Now you will be able to see the seal where the CV axle came out. Simply pop that seal out, and carefully, using a small block of wood or piece of plastic, tap in the new seal. It will take very little force to get the new seal in. Then reverse the process!

As for that seal itself, the slight amount of damage is up away from where the CV axle seal rides, so you will be fine once it is installed. I would install the seal first, then gently tap on the edge of that seal with a small rubber faced hammer until it is straight.

Hope this helped!

 

This has been the most helpful info I’ve recieved yet! Thanks so much! Will I need an alignment after this is done since I’m un bolting the lower ball joint? Or no since I’m not really touching any of the alignment cams on the lca? Also, I may just buy a new seal just for piece of mind. By chance do you have the part number? And what is the exact name of that seal? Thanks again for answering my question thoroughly!

 

Thanks for the diagram! Can actually visualize how this is all coming together now.

 

The Timken part number is 710573. Toyota calls it simply a dust seal. Most people and aftermarket companies call it the inner wheel bearing seal, since it is what protects the back side of the wheel bearing from water and other contaminants.

As for an alignment, typically you don't need to do it, however if there was a chance a recent alignment was done with a bad bearing, not knowing about it, then it would be a good idea to have it checked.

 

No you will not need a alignment

This seal was a pain in the ass to install on The truck. Much easier if you remove it and do it on a work bench.

 

Thanks for the part numbers. And I believe the last alignment was done with the bad bearing.. I don’t know how they didn’t catch that since they do an inspection of all components before aligning. Maybe my plan of attack will be to see if the seal is bad enough to replace and go from there.. although either way the alignment was done with the bad bearing, so maybe I’ll just get it checked.

 

Great info BamaToy...

While we're on the subject of bearings, do you suggest buying a complete assembly when replacing instead having to press them in etc?

I'm at 157,000 miles and on my originals. I'm starting to hear a growling sound in the driver side front end when turning to the right at speed...thinking I need to replace them.

Your thoughts?

 

I Have access to a shop with a press and everything I needed to press mine off and on so I did it myself.
It is a pain. I will be buying from bamatoy next time I have to do it

I agree with bamatoy the bearings do not come packed with enough grease and the only way to properly pack them is before you press on the hub. So complete assembly's you buy elsewhere other than TW are lacking proper grease

If yours is growling I would replace it sooner rather than later

 

If you can take off the spindle and do it on a bench that is much better. I managed to mangle one seal installing them in place with the spindles hanging from the upper ball joint. My regular seal/race driver kit doesn't have anything that large. So I made my own. When to the hardware store and just walked around looking for something that would work. This cast iron flange fit perfectly. Some time with a file and wire wheel to make it smooth and bingo, no more gnarled seals.

 

These are high quality but if you get in a pinch and can't find one locally after messing one of your only two up (see earlier post) alternate part numbers are Toyota 90316-A0001 or SKF 28739. Most places want to sell you a National, the quality of which didn't impress me, so I would shell out the bucks for an OEM part if Timken or SKF aren't available. My dealer happened to have some on the shelf on a Saturday.

 

Great idea, I’ll have to give that a try. I guess even taking the spindle completely out wouldn’t warrant the need to get an alignment? Also, to take the spindle completely off do you have to use a jack to compress the lca against the coil over, take the two bolts out of the ball joint, decompress and then detach uca and sway bar link?