How to Fluid Film your 3rd Gen

I would recommend dropping the spare before applying fluid film. Many more places you can spray plus you can treat the crank itself so it doesn't seize up.

 

LOL! Yes, definitely drop the spare first. That salt crap gets all up under that area, fluid film will keep it from rusting and the ff will keep your chain from seizing up.

 

I take a shop rag and tie it around the neck of the sprayer above the vent hole. incase you kink the tube or if you have tube that sprays straight and clog the end it will also come out the vent hole

 

I also do the hood. not the entire thing but spray inside the front part. other parts in the engine bay. door edges. I also take out the plastic storage boxes so I can spray the inside of the bed fender. behind the plastic fender things on the front fenders.
I use about a gallon for the truck and it takes me about an hour to hour and half.

 

Is it possible to apply fluid film with a brush? Or wiping it on with a rag?

Asking for a friend...

 

^^Yes Tell your friend you can brush it on.
I have a shop rag with some FF on it to wipe the hidden side of the drive shaft

 

I did a quick video of me spraying part of the truck using the Fluid Film Pro gun. This was worth the price paid, as I am happy with the way it worked and is a less expensive option over the long run vs. the aerosol spray can method.

FWIW...


https://youtu.be/_IiMRGK-EWo

 

I put a plastic bag over the rotors to keep overspray off of them.

 

I agree that gun works well. I think I have put 100 gallons thru it this year alone and have had no issues. the accessories for it work well too.

 

Agreed! Using the gun makes it so much more enjoyable and predictable, almost felt like a pro spraying away.

 

Does it make sense to "work" fluid film onto the metal where you can? Like a frame massage LOL?

The reason why I ask is this is how you "season" cast iron cook ware. Seems like the same principle could/should apply here.

Here's what I'm referring to:

http://www.southernliving.com/food/how-to/how-t0-season-a-cast-iron-skillet

Except I wouldn't be applying heat. Just working it onto the surface.

I'm hoping someone on TW has has figured out what is best...wipe on vs. spray on.

 

I spray. I do 6 to 7 vehicles a day. It would take to much time to wipe. also I can spray way farther in to the frame then wiping. I only do this from late Sept to Mid Dec. if you spray when it is hot the FF will run. the Dec is because of snow. if the vehicle has snow and ice the FF will not stick. then you must reschedule that takes time......yata yata yata.

 

I got my truck brand new about two years ago, I've taken good care of it but there is some rusting happening on bolts and such. As long as I clean the crap out of the undercarriage and let it dry well, this won't worsen already rusted parts for some reason will it?

 

This may have been covered, but do you have to wipe the FF off in the spring. I thought I read that somewhere but I may be mistaken. Are there any parts you should NOT spray?

Thanks!

 

I just "power wash" the crap out of the undercarriage before each application (once in the spring, once in the winter); let dry completely before beginning. I'm not sure how effective or necessary it is. Honestly there's no real way you're going to get it all clean if you did a good job applying it to begin with. I legit spray everything down there, focusing on the frame, suspension, and components attached to them. Anywhere I see a bolt gets it too (so factory skids and cross member braces). Anything you get on the exhaust, cat, or something that will heat up a ton is just going to burn off so technically it's wasted product. Fumes probably aren't good for you either, but at this point I kind of like the smell.

I'm just about to do this and grease my driveshaft zerks today!

OA

 

If you live with lots of winter salt, I would recommend fluid film anyways. Salt works it’s way into areas you can’t see, like the inside of your frame, and eat away. Power wash really well, after drying out, you can spray some rust reformer on the rusted areas, it will stop any more rust. Then fluid film.

No, you can just leave it. Power wash all salt residue away, or if you want to remove it, hot water and or simple green will help remove it. Then reapply. I just try to remove all crud build up, then reapply. Constant coating only helps protect year round.

 

Will the fluid film damage any of the plastic or rubber on the truck if there is any overspray or drippage? I obviously want my truck to last a long time, but don't want to cause damage to bushings or plastic on the body..

 

No, it is safe for all plastics and rubbers.

 

Haven't washed my truck since last October- been really busy and Spring arrived late in these parts.

Started with the engine bay and noticed some rust that I addressed with the aerosol can- here are a few picts- not all- posting fyi, fwiw.



Plan on changing the oil, rotating the tires, and applying fluid film on the entire underbody in the next week- it's a good few hours to do everything.

And also "bump", because this is a good thread- cheers

 

FYI, for you guys without a good air compressor, a Wagner sprayer from Lowes is what I used the last time. My air compressor is getting weak, and I was worried about it, so I used my wagner. It worked great.https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wagner-Control-Spray-250-Handheld-HVLP-Paint-Sprayer/1000177053