Tail light mod (both lights used as brake and signals)?

Of course, soldering is always best, especially for wires that are exposed to the elements...but I don't always do that. Honestly, I have never had any issues with the butt or spade connectors that were wrapped well (shrink wrapped or just e-taped really good). I did the latter (but I also siliconed the TT module and all the butt connectors before I wrapped it all) because I thought I would still need to mess with it some more.

So far, no issues...even with a few decent downpours here.

Has anyone looked behind the tail lights after a good downpour to see how wet it gets back there? I haven't had the chance...

 

I've doubled checked mine and they look fairly dry and hardly and debris in there. And this is after offroading a couple times in snow too.

 

@ToyoDrew I have only been working on the driver side tail only. DD 510 lumens red LED. Reverse DD. DD TT module. No change to front lights.

Interesting you say too much resistance... I’m experiencing the 1 flash then nothing with the 5 Ohm resistor and yet I’m hoping the 8 Ohm resistor will work? Unless you are saying the OEM halogen bulb plus the 5ohm resistor was too much resistance.

I was hoping people can share how they “sealed” the DD TT module. The opening is fairly large for the size of wires used. The circuit board is also not secured in the case and flops around. Is silicone the best option? Does this case need to “breathe” at all? Was not certain if it mattered if silicone got on the circuit board at all. Any pics of how others sealed?

 

@toyomaniac71, I found the same thing as you with the DD tail as turn modules. So I took them apart and filled them up with black JB weld RTV silicone then put them back together. (I think the electronic term for that is called potting.) Much more solid.

I've done this on many electronic components over the years and never had any problems. I love that stuff and have used a lot of it on my truck.

I hooked mine up on the drivers side and everything worked fine. But after testing it I decided I would like to move the turn signal to the reverse light so that's what I did and ended up not using the DD modules.

 

So are you basically filling that inner cavity with that stuff? One tube enough?

 

I just squirted silicon sealant in both ends until the hole was completely filled, doesn’t take much to seal both ends.

 

Yes, that's what I did. I think a tube would be enough; I buy the big tubes to use with a caulk gun.

 

@mesojdm - I know that you are considering a plug and play for moving signal to reverse location, but is it possible to provide any type of schematics if we wanted to do that ourselves?

 

Yes, I saying too much resistance with the OEM halogen with the 5 ohm resistor and TT module installed. I'm confused, are saying is that it's working with the TT module, but it doesn't when you put in a resistor? If it's working without the resistor, then don't worry about putting one in!

 

JB black RTV FTMFW. Love that stuff.

I don't have any diagrams as it's all in my head. What do you want a drawing of?

 

Seems like this thread has branched into two different configurations:
1. horseshoe as turn signal
2. turn signal + reverse in lower bucket

...with configuration #2 having significantly less interest/information. Someone that's got this setup, would you be able to create a separate DIY and/or best practices thread?

 

I think making horseshoe both brakes is pretty easy, it's making the reverse and signal into one switchback that I am not sure of, as well as easiest way to enlarge the reverse socket to accommodate new larger bulbs

 

I am considering making the full horseshoe running and brakes, reverse bucket becomes blinker, and relocate reverse lights to pod(s) on, in, or under the bumper. I would likely move to a full LED bulb layout, which as we all know will require some measure of resistor (likely about 6-9 Ohm).

I would prefer that someone, <cough> @mesojdm <cough>, with more talent than I have make a PnP kit using a switchback in the reverse bucket.

If I do this the goal is to make a PnP harness that relocates and extends the wiring as needed, yet allows me to return to stock easily should I have some sort of failure or decide to trade in for a newer 3rd in the future.

This will require sourcing either OEM style plugs so the harness goes between the current factory harness and socket configuration, or socket pigtails and male "bulb" plugs to go from the current socket to a new socket.

For me the part sourcing will/would be the most challenging.

 

I was able to get the part numbers for the plugs that connect to the harness and that connects to bulb socket for the turn and brake, but i'm sure we can find reverse plug pretty easy. The cost to do both was approx $100 which isn't bad and I have considered going that route even for the turn as tail module.

If I had my way, I would have the horseshoe as brake, reverse left alone and signal in that little red section next to horseshoe that is currently the reflector - that's what I would do if possible

 

Ahh simple solution to complex issue. May have to go that route. The hyper flashing just gets a little annoying. Honestly, I could get used to it but I'm determined to try and figure this thing out!

 

UHHH>. $100 for the male and female connectors?!

 

If I did my math right, you would need 4 of

$9 90980-11020 Wiring And Clamp Connector F Housing

90980-11020 for the harness side (2 per light per side) at $10.27 ea and 4 90980-11016 for the socket side at $12.99 ea according to ebay. I was going off oem parts to start so that comes out to around $93 before any shipping and tax if any. I'm sure there is cheaper ones that work out there as well.

 

I would be interested in this. Btw found T10 switchbacks https://www.theretrofitsource.com/t10-194-morimoto-xb-led-2-0.html

 

Negative. Either white or amber. Not both.
The problem with T10 socket is there is *usually* only 2 contacts *(ground, and power) so in order to be a SB, it would need 3 contacts. Which are readily available on T20 style bulbs.

 

I remember hearing/seeing each OEM connector being about $10. So 6 per side (3M&3F) that comes to roughly 120 before any LED, wire, resistor, etc.

All in, if using OEM plugs & sockets, is likely to be twice that depending on brand/quality of LED, etc.

After market pre-wired sockets and plugs can be had cheaper but quality may be questionable. Ideally, sourcing OEM or OEM quality connectors from a manufacturer would be cheaper. With that there will likely be minimums and production time delays.