Tire size on a 3 inch lift?

If you want the tires to stick out a little, you need some wheels with a little bit less backspacing, or wheels with a more negative offset. This will push the wheel/tire outwards.

 

That or run some wheel spacers, but a new wheel with some 4" or 3.75" backspacing would be ideal!

 

Yep. But he said he didn't want spacers. I had 3.5" BS on my old 15x8 wheels and they stuck out quite a bit compared to stock - 3.75" would be about perfect for a little better stance.

 

Great thanks, ill look for something with a negative offset

 

I'm running 15x8 with 3.25bs and a 33 12.5 15 with no lift or controll arms but pinch weld and bushwhacker cutout 3" button flairs. I also had to move washer tank and bumper.

It fills right to the edge of the flairs and rubs the frame at full lock. Right now I rub on the body but should be able to clear for 90% of wheeling with a 3" ET lift. It has some serious stance and the pic is before flairs

 

thats a beaut. alright, thanks for all of the measurements. i definitely will get 33's later. i like the width too

 

Np. Finding the rims is the worst part. 15 = PITA.. 16 = lots of options. The flairs kinda make it complete.



I need new photos because there is a lot more done since then. If you dont mind a little extra width go with less back spacing (wider). True it's more wear on components but I like the look. I'm looking for floatation as well with 12.5"... in many applications a 33 10.5 16 or 15 will work better and than 12.5. You can choose rims to match the tire. 12.5 requires a 3.75 bs or less to clear the upper controll arm. Most wheels at 8" x 15 or 16 with BS at either 3.75, or 3.25 will work... stealies and some aluminum don't work in 15"because of caliper clearance. You have picked your poison when going with 12.5 wide by 15 ... 16" wheels are much easier to fit because of the dish on the rim clearing the caliper.

It's up to you.. I don't have a lift in either of the photos and it's not wheelable at all. Without the cost of the lift this is the most expensive and limiting way to go in tire sizes without going lifted, MT, LT or SAS before .

 

i will put the lift kit and tires all on once i get everything. But i have 16" rims so i was going to get some pro comp 69 16x8, inexpensive and i think they would look good. my truck also has the factory fender flairs, the wide flairs. they have no bolt patterns on them but they are better then just the metal So finding the rim for me is easy. just have to find the tire with the backspacing... I definitely want 33's when i get the lift though, and like your tires, stick out a little bit but not too much. Not sure if I want quite as much backspace but i definitely plan to head in your direction. Thanks again

 

I think you have it backwards... the wheels provide the backspacing, not the tires

 

oh... right and i just need to find tires to fit the rim... i want some pro comp 69 16x8. Not sure if that helps any but those are the ones i would like. Thank you very much for the clarification

 

No worries

I had those wheels in a 15x8 and they were great.

 

oh great!! Did they look ok? I like the look and the price. the hardest part is finding a good tire for 16in rims that aren't too expensive. I also dont want them to be to wide, but to stick out a little bit. Not sure how to know that when buying the rims and tires... I'm o=very new at this because this is my first truck, and my first vehicle so...

 

Yep, I loved the stance they gave! They gave the tires a little poke, but not too much. This was with 31/10.5/15 General Grabber AT2's.





Let me know if you have any questions!

 

ill just put in those measurments with some 33's and 16" rims. thank you for your help! and yeah that is a pretty truck with those rims.

 

Thanks!! Yours will look great.

 

What BS are those wheels? There is a link that gives wheel specs and fitment for 1st gen' s mostly for 15".
http://web.archive.org/web/20081007213703/http://www.ttora.com/wiki/index.php/Tire_and_Wheel_Fitment

 

I had 3.5" BS written down, but when I checked just now I'm seeing 3.75" BS. Either way, only .25" difference.

They're 15x8, -19mm offset

 

Nice looking truck. When you mention a small amount of poke (wheel outside the fender well) that is what causes mud and rocks down the side of your vehicle. You can see in the second pic how the mud has collected on the mirror. Not saying there is anything wrong with this just mentioning it for others that may not think of it. I will stand by for the assault

 

Mus is fine. It's when you smash your own mirror off...

 

did you guys re-calibrate your speedometer? Because when you are going 65 you are actually at 70. So i am wondering you guys are fixing that or just remembering it.