Toyota Oil Filter (Made in Thailand) vs. the competition........

It is easy to draw conclusions based on visual appearance within spin on filters however "seeing can be deceiving". A few points
The media pack. What material is being used (brand and quality) and how are you measuring its performance. You can product that that filters out 99.9% of contaminants as small as 5 microns but hits capacity in 500 miles. At this point the filter is useless and you as the owner have no idea it isn't filtering anymore. The critical elements of the media pack are the media, the sealing methods of the media pack and the overall construction of the media pack. Many failures occur because the center tube is cutting the media or the plastisol used to bond either the endcaps or the media is installed incorrectly.
What PSI is the bypass valve set to vs. the vehicle spec (OE sample). Do you know that by cutting it open? This is specifically important as vehicle engines are being downsized and manufactures are using forced induction. All of these changes are impacting the filters bypass capability.

The industry doesn't use 1 standard. Toyota doesn't manufacture filters and they source from various suppliers in countries around the world. To really know you need to be able to perform an ISO 4548-12 multi pass efficiency test using a consistent set up process and defined standards. Like XX flow rate with XX micron debris range for XX period of time before hitting XX psi pressure against an OE sample specification.

Another thing to think about would be "who" makes the filter. Mobil doesn't make filters, nor does Toyota and Fram while they do manufacture also contract out to many suppliers around the world and that is consistent across all suppliers alike.

 

I have a bit over 200000 on a 2006 v6. I have always used whatever is on sale at autozone. I am planning on keeping my truck for my more miles. After seeing this I am switching to toy filters.

 

Good info. Think I'm going to switch to Toyota oil filters on my next oil change.

 

So which filter should i use?

















Lol

 

This is not how the bypass works. It's a differential pressure not absolute, meaning the bypass only opens when the pressure across the filter exceeds the set point. The filters that cross to OEM 90915-YZZD3 usually have a bypass valve in the 8 to 11 psi range.

The 1GR-FE at idle is supposed to have 4.3 psi or more and at 3,000 RPM the range is specified as 43-to-85 psi. The 2TR-FE at idle is supposed to have 4.2 psi or more and at 3,000 RPM the range is specified as 23 to 75 psi. The upper number only comes into play with the relief valve setting.

If you search there's an Amsoil TSB about this, their EaO57 filters caused issues in Toyotas and it's generally thought this is due to the 20 psi bypass in it being too high for the interval they suggested. The bypass should only come into play when the filter media is clogged. When this happens the valve opens to prevent oil starvation. There's been at least one Internet anecdote ( ) of that Amsoil filter causing an engine failure.

You want the bypass to be matched to the filter medium's capability for pressure and efficiency and the oiling system pressures. This is not randomly thrown together. Toyota designed an engine and specified a Denso filter for it. I'm not saying there aren't deficiencies in the D1 and D3 filters and better alternatives don't exist, after all Toyota and Denso are balancing cost and performance.

But the OE part is the starting point to figure out the criteria and deviating from it needs to be logical. The OE filters are really pretty decent and the cost is easy to take. You can certainly do much worse even at higher prices. Personally, I haven't seen enough reason to switch from the Thailand Denso/Toyota at 5K intervals but there are things that I do agree can be improved upon. The anti-drain back design, having a standpipe (on the 1GR anyway) perhaps.

 

I'm fairly certain this has been addressed since 2010.

 

I don't know what Amsoil does, I only referenced it because I happened across it recently. The point isn't what filter model they say to use, the fundamental criteria didn't suddenly change. IOW, spinning on another brand or model with similar filter media and a 20 psi bypass then leaving it there for a year is likely going to result in the same outcome.

In my estimation the oil filter is really your last defense, so if the engine isn't eating itself, running well and the air filter is working the oil shouldn't be getting dirty very quick and given a choice of circulating dirty oil past a clogged filter or none at all I think I'm more comfortable with the first option.

 

Agreed! That's just crazy about the 20psi bypass valve. You've peaked my interest in digging into this more as an Amsoil user for over 20 years. Thank you for posting that link!

 

I've never been in favor of the super extended intervals so I have to confess that I don't pay that much attention to Amsoil's suggestions. I don't have a problem with their oil, seems like very good stuff. But all the testing and experimenting to see how long this oil or that filter can go seem a little like Russian roulette to me. I'd prefer to aim for a good enough combination that doesn't make my truck a life cycle margin test bed. IOW, a $25 jug of Mobil1 and a $4 Denso filter every 5K doesn't push the limit or cut too deeply into the beer budget. It returns good analysis numbers, runs fine. I dunno, seems possible to over think it.

 

I too do not buy into their suggestions. Never have! Who in their right mind would go 25k miles without changing the oil and filter? As much as the stuff costs, I still run it for 6k miles then dump it. The contaminants from the combustion process have got to degrade the detergents in the oil somewhat. I rather have piece of mind knowing I'm doing what has been a standard practice for quite some time now.

 

JUST CHANGE DAT OIL.3K CONV. OIL 5K SYN OIL..........BUY A GOOD QUALITY FILTER.......FULL STOP, THEN GO PLAY WITH YO GF.

 

85K is all you could get out of a Honda engine? Maybe that should tell you something about the filter your using.

 

The automakers may not design or manufacture the filters they brand, but they do set a specification for their source to meet, in order partly to ensure consistency of the product from different suppliers, and partly to ensure it meets their standards and performs adequately in their engine/vehicle.

While the Toyota filter may be the best one for their engine, maintenance interval, driving conditions and practices, and the oil brand itself (here we go with specs again), make a difference in the engine's longevity. My wife has an '06 Sienna; we bought it new, and ever since the 36K warranty expired, I've done all the oil and filter changes on the car. I use Valvoline full synthetic, Purolator PUR1 filters both changed at 5K intervals. The van now has 340,000 miles on it, and the oil level drops maybe halfway to the fill mark between changes (one pint of loss, through either/both leakage or burn). I'm not saying that combination of brands is best; it's just what I decided to use based on user reviews and recommendations (also used them on a high performance Miata), and I got great service from them.

Who knows, maybe all that proves is it takes a lot to kill a Toyota, regardless of what you pour in it or screw on it. It's the primary reason I chose a Toyota pickup over any other brand. Not just the Sienna, we've owned 3 Camry's, too, and many years ago I had an FJ40 and a Celica GT.

On the face of it, a ton of filtering surface may seem to be the best, but it also depends on what the limitations of the filtering material is. 500 square yards of cotton gauze might not filter as well as 3 square feet of cotton batting, nor will 250 sq. inches of a basic paper filter material work as well as half that much synthetic if the synthetic can capture smaller particles and not clog over the recommended service interval. The original comparo in this thread was good, I appreciate the OP taking the time and expense to do it; at the very least, we learn that there's a helluva lot more differences inside the filter can that isn't readily apparent from the advertising hype.

 

So what is the mileage life of the OEM made in thailand? I am using full synthetic, but does the filter last that long? No details on the box or filter.

 

Good post. I’ve never had trouble with NAPA filters but I may switch to Toyota after reading this

 

Been rolling with Mobil 1 syn and Napa Gold (Wix) for years. I change it out every 5K. Works for me.

 

75PSI at the stripe,,with a fresh-each-weekend Napa Gold no bypass on a BBC getting trounced with 55wt race oil on a sump system. Never popped, always held. Scattered lifter and Jesel rocker parts a few times and it grabbed the tiny bits just fine. Use to buy Cases of Wix from the Old CR Napa store. They looked and worked good back then. Early 80's I think.

 

Thanks for this write up I am getting Toyota filter next oil change.

I dont know if it was posted yet, got tired of reading arguments but same results with more details

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/tacoma-oil-filter-comparison

 

Can I/ should I use the OEM

$54 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

90915-YZZD3 in the third Gen 2.7 I4?
Thanks,
John

 

Holy shit.... How have I never seen this thread?
I've been buying the expensive Mobil-1 filter along with full synthetic for years.

So, I guess the overly strong consensus.... Here... Is to use a Toyota oil filter. Right? Now that I've been edumacated can someone tell me the part# for my 2011 OR. Edit* After Googling around, my 2011 might need the
Toyota Genuine Parts

$54 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

90915-YZZD3.

I'd be interested in seeing the OP redo some of these tests. You think the Bosch and mobil-1 are the exact same all these years later?