Rust on Frame with A/C drain mod fix

After owning it 2 years I finally got around to doing this.

 

Thank you for letting us know. Will perform this asap.

 

Awesome thread!

 

Fluid film? What exactly is that?

 

I'm assuming that Toyota hasn't addressed this on the 2017s? And can anyone confirm it's still an issue on the 2018s before I hook my dad up?

 

Its a lanolin based coating that protects against rust and corrosion. Its amazing. Highly recommended

 

Gotcha. I'm assuming you're up north? I may hold off, the state of Ga has 3 salt trucks...

 

Yes, but it also helps keep bolts ect from seizing up....might help keep heavy mud off from offroading ect. Still never a bad idea

 

Back on topic, I had this uniquely shaped tube laying around. It was actually my PCV tube I took off to add a catch can.



pokes out the engine guard's existing hole

 

Great idea, but up north it I could see it causing a different issue during the cold winter. The longer line increases the chance of water freezing up in the line and plugging it. Then the condensation could overflow the drip tray and leak down onto the carpet while using the defroster, or freeze onto the coils.

 

Possible I suppose...there is a giant exhaust pipe right there adjacent to the line.

 

.. Here's one type of application of Fluid Film in whole underbody..
https://youtu.be/SQrqqt8qq2s
Or you get in a spray can for small area you want to protect.. good product

 

But would be dropping water in the winter time ? Or is it only when you’re using the AC to cool the truck down? Im not sure if it drops water when you’re using the heater

 

The defroster besides heating up the windshield, also removes moisture from inside the cab by use of the A/C. The air is first cooled which causes the moisture to condensate on the cold coils then the air is heated to provide warmth.

 

Awesome! thanks for the knowledge, I live in the desert,I’ve never seen my cars/truck drop water in the winter but then again I’m not looking that hard..

 

My take on this fix.
PARTS
- 3/8" x 3/8" Barb Hose Splicer
- 3/8" x 1/4" IN Barb Adapter
- 1/4" IN Pipe Cap
- 3/16" x 7/16" x 9/32" x 5/16" Rubber Grommet (Lowes# 884624)
- faucet screen
- 1/4" to 5/8" stainless hose clamps.
- 2 feet of 3/8" ID Hose (Advanced Auto only had gas line)

1) Let the truck cool down - haha
2) Put the grommet inside the pipe cap and screwed the barb Adapter into the cap so the grommet cannot move. Then drilled straight through the assembly. Take apart and make the hole in the grommet and cap a little bit bigger.
3) Hand cut the screen to to the diameter of the grommet, which fits perfectly inside the cap.
4) Cut the grommet in half (this makes it like a rubber washer now)
5) Put the screen in the cap, then put the Grommet/washer in and tighten down the barb Adapter on top.
6) Connect the rest and zip tie like everyone has done.
Thanks for the idea guys!!

 

Good point and a good reason to use clear hose. At least you'd be able to see if it froze up.

 

Gonna tackle this today. Anybody have any issues with the heat off the exhaust there being so close to the hose? Or is that a non issue when using the heater hose?

 

non issue