Catch Can nay sayers

Yeah it would be nice, but i understand them not paying. Totally worth it though. I've got a 3 year old boy too and did the same when he was born lol.

 

Update, another 5k and this is the crap it has stopped from going in my motor. No coffee for this turd,

 

Ai. I wish people would stop with this scare tactic. All you’re “catching” is stuff your oil protects anyway. Any recorded engine failures because of no catch can? No? Ok thanks.

 

With all due respect to the OP... so what.

This mod does not hurt (unless you screw up the install) nor does it help, even with longevity.
I trust not only Toyota engineers, but Dodge, GM, Ford, Nissan, Honda, Porsche, Subaru, BMW, Mercedes and all the other OEM vehicle engineers who see no need for a catch can either.

Actually, if my new vehicle NEEDED a catch can I would be suspicious.

 

No recorded engine failures that I know of. My OCD gets the best of me. Not trying to put out any scare tactics, I feel better about having one on my truck. I sleep better at night knowing the sh@t I am emptying out of that can is not going in my motor. If you don't care about it so be it. I posted this so that everyone could see that they do indeed catch stuff. Naysayers say they don't work but I think pictures speak a thousand words and thats what this post speaks to. It doesnt mean you need to have one, it all depends on your own opinion. I feel better about having it and think that for such a cheap mod its cheap insurance.

 

It's not steel wool. Its brill and it was full almost to the top. The brill removes the oil from the air-oil mixture.

 

Same people that are against the oil catch can are the same ones that:
- use

$52 0W-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0W-20 oil
- change oil at 10000 miles
- go to the dealer for free oil change
Nothing wrong with that but some people like to change things around...

 

For the most part correct. I see no need to be running it thru my motor. Wouldnt clean air be better than oil and water, not sure but wouldnt that crap burning thru the motor cause carbon build up on the valves.

 

Crisco has better lubrication than 0W-20.

 

What do you use?

 

put one on my truck , Hoping my cataltic converter will last longer now ????? my 2 cents

 

*sighs...

Oil protection and cooling properties are determined by flow through an engine not pressure.... But I’m sure you’ve hooked up a pressure gauge and talked with the engineer that designed the oiling system and now understand the proper pressure for a given RPM that indicates too little or too much oil flow.

Catch cans...as already stated, good idea on a DI engine to keep the valves clean. Not sure I’d want to do it while in warranty on a port injected engine though

 

My setup for those interested. I've put a catch can on every car I have ever owned. A debatable subject for sure but every time I drain mine I'm like, yeah this was a good idea!

 

That milky oil is being created by your catch can. Water condenses in the can itself, and the can never gets hot enough to drive off the moisture. It’s creating moisture where there should be none, just like any bottle or vessel that is constantly heated and cooled, but never allowed to boil off like the engine itself is.

Most of the water created by your catch can probably ends up eventually getting sucked into your engine, leading to increased wear.

Id get rid of that thing before you join the “55k engine failure” club.

There is no way I could sleep at night knowing water is condensing in my catch can.

 

Black side is clean side of the air filter on the turbo engine on my previous truck.
Don’t worry, our Tacomas are safe.

Hi Yzkiley

I think you could be right about carbon buildup with a gasoline direct injected only engine. It’s a dirty little secret of the auto industry world wide and affects millions of vehicles. I read an article recently where an Audi executive admitted that it is a problem. On many engines the buildup becomes very heavy. On many, it doesn’t seem to be such a big problem, at least in affecting performance.

But, our Tacomas are direct and also port injected so gasoline is also being sprayed at, onto or against the valve stems and backside of the valve surfaces helping to keep them shiny clean in a properly running engine. So, no worries on the Tacoma about carbon build-up on the back of intake valves.

I’m not a mechanic.
Mechanics please chime in. I only know what I believe to possibly be true from what I’ve researched.

Pics are of my first generation twin turbo 2.7 eco boost engine with only direct injection.
Ford added port injection to the new 2017 3.5 liter ecoboost and new 2018 2.7 liter ecoboost engines.

I purchased a cheap bore scope from Harbor Freight and fished it into the disconnected air intake at the top of the engine because I was curious as to what the valves looked like at about 12,500 miles because the engine was occasionally stumbling slightly at idle while at stoplights.
So, I decided to start looking into it. A better borescope would be good for better resolution.

I held open the intake flap with a screwdriver, fished around to various cylinders and took pictures of the borescope screen with my phone. Carbon was building up on the stems, but the back of the valves weren’t too bad at all... yet. The pictures were taken after doing about 20 miles of high rpm freeway driving shifted into lower gears in attempt to remove some of the buildup. I had the motor humming loudly. That didn’t work.

The first oil change had been done at several hundred miles, then at about 5,500 miles and 11,000 miles using Mobil 1 5w-30.

Then, at over 13,000 miles I just happened to look at the back, or cleaner side of the air filter.
It was black.
I purchased a new air filter and decided to trade it in.
It had already been in the shop a couple of times for a couple of weeks.

I’m very happy to have a Tacoma. So far, pretty good.

 

No problem, see you at 55k. Thanks for the heads up. I will be checking the catch can every 2k - no more 5k's and just for reference there was way more oil than water

 

I’m just messing with you. If that can gives you peace of mind, I’m all for it. I’m sure it’s not hurting anything.

 

I’ve been wanting to do this since adding my supercharger. My stock intake manifold was all greasy on the inside when it was removed.

 

From my understanding the brown liquid collected in the catch can, can be processed through finer and finer filters and then mixed 34:1 with ATF and you get pure blinker fluid.

 

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My catch can came with 2 sets of nipples (smaller and larger). Which set did you use? Want to buy everything BEFORE installing the can and removing the original hose. Doing best to avoid another - remove, oh crap need this part instead, put all back and drive to auto shop - scenario.