Differential Gear Oil Change, DINO

Had my front driver needle bearing replaced with a bushing thanks @glorifiedwelder , running Lucas 85w140 as recommended by ECGS. Going to run the same in the rear diff as well. So what is a "typical" maint cycle for gearoil changes using dino? Can't seem to find any info via google. Is there another reputable company making that oddball 75w for the transfer case? Seems Toyota is the only one currently.

 

if you ask toyota they will tell you its based on inspection.
I asked the very thing and they said they inspect it first and see how the fluid is before changing. No actual milage saying when to do it.

But the off road shop I go to told me pretty simple. Since I wheel do it yearly just to be safe even with breathers. Whats the fluid cost vs a faulty locker or diff because you were too cheap to do it?

Its the same with the transmission which is stupid on Toyota's part. If you tow every 100 000km if not? good for forever. I get towing will make it wear more and need to be serviced sooner but how do you go from never needs to be replaced to every 100 000km just because you tow? With that said for the $250 it cost to have a trans fluid change done through the dealer I'll just do it every 100 000km. I did 25k km in one year so every four years who cares.


If you plan on keeping your truck 10+ years till it dies why not do it to help it last longer?

 

good point, screw it once a year. Although the dealership can flush the tranny, I'm not touching that sucker. I read the proceedure, hell no. Diffs/Transfer case, easy.

 

yep basically why I'll let the dealer do the transmission for me every few years.

 

sometimes a good slap in the face to point out the obvious....is a good thing. That and oil changes are cheap...thanks.

 

RAVENOL J1C1003 SAE 75W Gear Oil - MTF-3 Full Synthetic (1 Liter)

https://www.amazon.com/RAVENOL-J1C1003-Manual-Transmission-Fluid/dp/B00QPCL7ZE?th=1

I have it in my transfer case now. I wanted to flush all fluids after break in period, so I got this stuff. It's about $14 now. It was around $11 when I first got it. Still cheaper than $60. Hell you can change it 1once a year and it would still be cheaper than toyota LF. I figure I can't go wrong. There's people running 75W-85 with no failure issues. Shifts into 4hi from RWD are smooth with no issues noted since the change. Not better, just not different. If you get the ravenol, get two bottles. The bottle is great for pouring from top down, not so great from bottom/horizontal. There's a little straw pull out thing that will drip.

I forget which synthetic is safe for yellow metals found in t-case: mobil 1 75w80 or valvoline? maybe both? I remember reading on one of their sites they are yellow metal safe. So I guess you can use them as well? I just remember there was no sulphur smell in the t-case when I opened it up so went with something that didn't have sulphur smell to replace it.

Rear diff, I think I did first at 5k using dino valvoline to flush. Then, 10K flush. then going 30K with synthetic. only planned on doing the 10k flush because the 5k flush was so shiny and sparkly.

front diff, I did after 5k. maybe 7k? i forget. it looked clean without a lot of metal bits so didn't feel the need for second flush and I put in synthetic with plans to go 30k on that as well.
I'm sure I could have gone synthetic on the rear at 5k and went 30k with no problems but it just looked shiny. I mean, I went without changing rear diff at all on a 91 grand marquie and 2003 miata. I'm probably going overkill but I also didn't run those cars through as harsh an environment so....

 

I think GL5 will attack yellow metals, GL4 is safe. I read about the Ravenol here and there. I have also hear that dino dissipates heat better than synthetic. Yet to see any scientific proof on that point to date.

 

side note: just changed the rear diff gear oil to Lucas, I used Mobile 1 around 10-15k. Came out pretty black, I'm at 46k now.

 

Good time to remind folks to upgrade their fill and drain plugs the LARGE magnet type that was once common in Toyota axles.

 

I change mine every 30K, 85W140 Lucas, per ECGS

 

part. numbers for. reference?

 

These can be used everywhere but the front diff drain. Install the large magnet in any location that they will fit w/o bottoming out. More and larger magnets, more sparkly particles captured.

10mm internal hex short magnet
90341-18021

10mm internal hex long magnet
90341-18035

24mm bolt short magnet
90341-18057

24mm bolt long magnet
90341-18040

As for the front diff drain, the 10mm hex is frequently stuck. This causes the 10 mm internal hex to round out (not a problem on the smaller 10mm plugs listed above) This is due to the massive perimeter and M24 thread engagement. Anyway, replace that part with Lexus part number 90341-24016, same plug, but has a 14mm nut for removal and install.

 

Question: Where can these magnets be used? Everywhere where?
looking into doing my diffs and transfer case oil change.


10mm internal hex short magnet
90341-18021

10mm internal hex long magnet
90341-18035

24mm bolt short magnet
90341-18057

24mm bolt long magnet
90341-18040

 

The 18021 can be used anywhere. The longer magnets will require inspection to see if there is enough depth. Generally, the rear diff drain will accept the longer unit.