How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

Where do the washers go? What order? I see 2 thin and 1 thick.....

 

Hb26

 

You know where the washers go?

 

Not sure which washers ur referring to?

 

Csb should only have lockwasher for mounting bolts I believe

 

I don't recall seeing those thin washers, but I believe the thick one was for the staked nut, I would imagine by the looks of them that they were on either side of the bearing itself. Don't go off what I say though id look into it more

 

Think I got it figured. They go on pretty much one way for it to work. Thank you though man

 

You can see how bad it was , took me only 6 hrs but end result so worth it runs so much smoother . Now I really can feel my balls joints that I been putting off . My truck is lifted 6 inches plus body lift I think I’m purchasing a shim kit for my rear and to help mke the carrier bearing last longer and it don’t help when I’m always loading the shit of it

 

I know I'm replying to an old post but I am facing the issue right now. I had the center bearing replaced by a driveline shop about 45,000 miles ago and it completely disintegrated (see pic). When I took it apart to do a DIY replacement there were NO WASHERS between the flange and the bearing race. I have to assume there is supposed to be at least one in there, maybe two as depicted in the parts diagram. Maybe this is why it failed so quickly? The shop did NOT use an OEM replacement, evidenced by the fact that the bearing has two hangers on it and the OEM does not. Has anyone else found less than two spacers between the flange and bearing? Just curious.

 

Does anyone know the correct part numbers for the 3 (or are there 4?) u joints for a extended cab pre-runner?

I am replacing the carrier bearing soon and figured that I might as well replace all the u-joints!

 

Hey Zebra there are 4 u-joints, one at the trans, one at the diff, and then two that make up that double cardan joint. Anyone else looking to replace this bearing, buy OEM. Consider the load; this has to be quality. I replaced mine some time ago and honestly can't remember what washers, if any, are there. Just call or go into a Taco dealer and ask. The guys at Olathe Toyota in Kansas are real helpful and competitive. Not a plug, just my experience. Also if you have a problem removing that stake nut search my earlier posts in this thread sometime in March/April '17. Now that's a plug. Good luck.

 

Thanks. I looked under today when I was greasing the u joints and noticed that. Does the cardan joint come with the u-joints if i were to replace that part as a whole?

Also do you know if the front and rear u-joint share the same part #?

 

Don't get the stock pre-runner u joints, get the 4x4 u joints. Pre-runners do not have grease zerks. I got the spicer greaseable when I replaced mine.

 

Happy New Year! From what I was told that double cardan can be a bit tricky to work on. I think there is some sort of ball and spring set up in the middle. I'm not sure if you can buy one preassembled or not. Mine was still good so I just replaced the one at the trans as the one at diff had been done recently by PO. Not sure of part #'s but like I said before the guys on the phone at Olathe Toyota Parts are very accommodating and will ferret out those #'s for you with your specs.

 

Also check Rock Auto for the OEM Dana/Spicer carrier bearing - it actually has Toyota's part number on it! And the price was less than half what a dealer gets in most cases. But only for RWD versions. They have SKF for 4WD Tacomas.
For RWD: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6365691&cc=1431544&jsn=10481 ($50 & only shows up for 2005 for some odd reason)
For 4WD: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1841600&cc=1431544&jsn=10480 ($48 for SKF)

I just had the Spicer CB installed on my DCLB Prerunner and it worked perfectly - no vibes at all. Also, I filled it with GE silicone rubber before using it - takes several days to cure. This 'mod' supposedly makes it much stiffer like the polyurethane Ford bearing. I did replace all 3 U-joints at the same time as the one at the diff was going bad.

 

Tell me more about packing the bearing with silicone. I have an aftermarket CB on my work bench just waiting to go in. What is the actual procedure for filling it with silicone?

 

I used a typical caulking gun with a tube of GE silicone in it. I cut the spout off square about 3/4 inch down so it was almost fully open and then put that in the round hole in the top of the carrier housing as far as possible (the nozzle will nearly fill the round hole) with it slanted to first one side then the other. I pumped the silicone into each 'side' until it flooded out the oblong hole on the bottom of the housing. I also put a piece of duct tape over the second oblong hole and held my thumb over it so the second 'fill' also filled the space between the two oblong holes at the bottom of the housing. (you'll need to have a piece scrap cardboard under it while you're working to catch the excess silicone - use alcohol for cleanup)
After letting it cure for a couple hours I put it in a small convection oven set to about 175 degrees to speed up the curing process (once again on a piece of cardboard). I used the oven for four 12 hour sessions over a period of a week. You could use any normal oven but I already had the convection one for another project. Seems to have worked well. It takes a long time to completely cure because most of the silicone is deep inside the housing but I suspect you could go ahead and install the CB after a few days of curing and it would finish curing after installation.

 

What kind of jaw pullers are you guys using to get the old bearing off. I'll be doing mine soon.

 

A 3 jaw would work best