Ask the Electrician

Yeah, I kinda knew that.
<<<HVACR guy

 

So I want to replace my garage hyrdonic heater. I can do the plumbing part. The current thermostat is is plugged into an outlet and then the heater is wired to the thermostat. Fan in heater kicks on based on temp. I'd like to replace it with something similar. I've searched and haven't found anything. Most of what I find invloves wiring a low voltage thermostat back to the boiler. This heater isn't on a zone that's controlled by a circulator pump - it's a straight loop from the boiler so there's always hot water in it and the fan kicks on based on the temp. I don't mind that setup as I've always got a little heat output. Any help is appreciated. Oh - I only run this heater from Nov-April. When it's not used, I simply unplug the unit and shut off the supply & return valve near the boiler.

 

What you're looking for is something along the lines of this:

$25 Stelpro SWT1F Single Pole Electric Heater Wall Thermostat, white

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KRJLX5K which would require a box for the unions to be made within.
This might be a more simple solution if the new unit comes with a cord: http://a.co/b42RGC6 Plug in and go!

 

Great...thank you!

 

For the first one - how would I wire that up?

I like that plug & play.

 

Howdy y'all so I recently got a welder and I'm very rapidly getting into welding/metal fab. My machine has a multi voltage plug for standard 115v or 230v. My garage is only wired for 115v soo I'm sure we all know where this is going, how difficult would it be to run the 230 in the garage. I have some electrical knowledge but mostly automotive related. Am I getting totally in over my head here. Also I went to a tech high school (for plumbing tho) and I've done a few small electrical jobs like replacing a ceiling fan.

 

I'd imagine it would be like this. Usually they come with a wiring diagram. Essentially the thermostat is just a temperature controlled switch. The picture on Amazon only shows a black and red wire so this is my assumption.

 

Where is your electrical distribution panel? AKA breaker box

 

In my basement so I'll have to run it underground to the detached garage

 

What amperage are you looking to have available? I think it is time to call an electrician who knows your local codes.

 

I would think 20A

 

I think at this point it really would be better to talk with a local electrician to make sure you're getting the appropriate information and codes for your intentions. It could be a very simple exchange of outlets and adding a double breaker in your panel box OR it could be much more involved with trenching etc. The local guys will be able to look at your equipment, distribution box, method in which the current conductors are run and the current circuit quantity and sizing in your garage and recommend the appropriate course of action.

 

@jc11taco89 if your going to go through with this you should just put a sub panel in the garage so you’ll be set for future projects

 

Thank you again!

 

Ya see this is why I asked because I really don't know enough about the trade and I definitely appreciate the solid advice, this was my original thought to contact a local electrician and see what his/hers thoughts were, possibly try and do most of the grunt work myself and try and save a little.

 

What is the difference in an induction motor and an A/C motor?

 

Just thought a few of the electricians would appreciate this. Talking to a union electrician this week, who was running a crew to up grade the 4160v to480v transformer and down stream supply. The day before, they had killed all the 480v all the down stream except the feed from tramsformer.(buss bars). As he pulled into the parking lot the next morning, he noticed half of the lights in the building flashing, buy the time he got to the door, the flashing half was dark and he knew this was not going to be a good day. Turns out a pair of addicts thought they could turn those buss bars into a good buzz. They got much more then they bargained for. The tool that they tried to cut the bars with, they shorted between two phases and the resulting arc blast explosion putting both of them in Akron children hospital. A couple hundred bucks of copper is going to cost us a couple million in hospital bills. I am assuming that most addicts don't have good health insurance .

 

Not me only, it will impact everybody that uses health care. I meant to say Akron Childrens burn unit.
I don't know how much you know about arc flash, but here is a short run down.
When a piece of metal touches between two phases of high voltage copper conductors, it creates an arc flash, like an arc welder, only multiplied by 10000. On a welder the electric is controlled , say, 100 amps at 60 volts for as long as you weld or until you change the settings. In an arc flash, its all the voltage and amperage you got until something fails, either a fuse or whatever created the short.
What actually happens in an arc flash is when the copper is shorted, the arc expands the copper into gas and little participles 25000 times its original size in a small fraction of a second. The result is a fireball of about 14000 degrees, blasted out with enough force to knock you several yards backwards.
Any unprotected skin will have the worst third degree burns possible . Inhalation of that 14000 degree blast will burn the inside of you, also. Any man made fabric you are wearing will melt into the remaining skin, if any, creating a whole new set of issues for the burn unit. Blindness is almost a given, and the arms of the person doing the cutting, most likely will be history. Possible concussion and broken bones from impact of landing from blast. And medical issues the rest of their life. Good chance of never working again, and needing constant care the rest of their life.
Just like all mud holes are not the same, all arc flashes aren't the same. But taking a SWAG at what I know about this one, if they live, it will cost millions.