front diff drain plug stuck and now hex key won't fit

I was doing the front diff drain and fill. Both plates came off, and the fill plug came loose. But I had a hard time with the drain plug. I think I used too much leverage on my wrench without the key staying square in the plug. Now the key does not fit into the plug properly.

I did remove the fill plug and check the oil. It's in good condition, but at 90,000 miles it should be replaced. I put the fill plug back in, so that I can still drive the truck.

I'm doing this operation in my driveway without the advantage of a lift or even power tools.

Anyone have any suggestions as to how to get it out now, or should I just take it to a pro?

Thanks.

 

I would use the next size up if you have bunged up the edges, and use a breaker bar with the socket version of a hex key

 

Mine is a 10mm but most people only have 3/8 and it is close enough. It's just a little smaller. I would get a 10mm, line it up and use a hammer to drive it in. The hex nut hole is probably boogered up. Use a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter with a long 1/2 or breaker bar.

 

how about just sucking out the old stuff thru the filler hole.?

 

Use this

 

STOP.

before you try to torque on it again get a can of AeroKroil and spray the plug down, give it a day, spray it again, and wait another day. Then go at it with a proper sized hex bit that has been properly seated into the hole.

 

I'm the person who installed the plug last time it was removed. I don't have air tools, so it should not be so tight.

I went to sears to attempt to get a better socket for the job so I could use a bigger wrench. I was using a 3/8 ratchet and I don't have a 3/8 breaker bar. I then put a closed end wrench on the end of the wrench when I attempted to move it, and everything slipped all over the place except for the plug. Sears did not have a 1/2 to 10mm hex thing. They did have a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. Also, while there I figured out the socket I have is 2 parts, a 10mm magnetic socket with a 10mm hex thing about a half inch long. So my new thought was to grab the 1/2 inch long thing with a 10mm socket that fits my bigger wrench. But the smallest socket for the bigger wrench I have is 12mm. I did buy the adapter.

Current plan is this - I am dropping a friend off at the Boston airport in the morning. When I get back it should be warmer than today. I'm going to park the truck on ramps so I have more room under the truck. Then hammer in the 10mm hex thing. Grab it with the bigger wrench and try to get it to move. If I just mess up the plug move, then time to find a pro with a lift and more tools than I.

I did get a new plug at the dealer today. 10.49, so no big loss there. Also, the truck worked just fine with the 2 plates removed.

 

You could have someone weld a nut onto the plug, that wouldn’t cost much, and it would be easy to remove with a wrench and breaker bar.

 

You gotta break the chemical bond that has formed. After hammering on that 10mm hex thing it might come out. Better yet pick up a 3/8 impact driver and go to town with that. It works like a pneumatic impact gun but instead of needing an air compressor you just use a hammer.

 

This would be my suggestion as well. BUT don't hammer the piss out of it. Be patient and use medium blows. The constant shocking should finally loosen it.

 

If all else fails and you have stripped the hell out of the plug just weld a nut to the plug. Weld the threaded part of the nut to drain plug. You might have to build up some weld first so you can have enough material to weld the nut on.

 

Where you at OP? If your in the Houston Texas area I can get that drain plug loose

 

Your best bet is to tap the plug with a hammer with medium blows. You are trying to crush the sealing washer just enough to take the pressure of the threads and break any chemical bond. A lot of little taps are better than a few big ones. Make sure you tap all the way around the top of the plug several times , to crush the washer evenly. Then employ a 10 mm Allen socket with a breaker bar to turn it out. While you are tapping the plug, stop every few taps and make sure the Allen will fit in the plug. As you tap with the hammer, it can peen the metal over and start to reduce the size of the Allen hole in the plug. You can use that to your advantage to help repair the hole so the Allen fits snug.

 

I had to chisel mine out. Used a 10mm hex and pounded in it and it still rounded. Chisel, small sledge, got it to break free and spin. Highly suggest you go get a new plug before ya break it free. They are like 10 bucks at the dealer. Use some anti seize, torque is 48 lb if I remember correctly.

 

this is what my dad had to do with his Tundra. same setup. Allen head strips out. He ground a notch in the face and pounded it free with a chisel.

 

36 ft/pd

 

This is a little unorthodox but it worked for me on my manual trans drain plug when the plug started stripping. While the trans was still pretty warm, I sprayed WD40 on the plug, let it sit a few minutes, then used a cheap can of compressed air (the kind for cleaning electronics) holding it upside down so it it sprays the propellent and got the plug cold. After a few tries with this method it came out. I was thinking that if the plug was substantially colder than the casing it will shrink it the tiniest bit enough to loosen it.

Like I said it is unorthodox but seemed to work for me. Might want try it if all the above suggestions don't work for you.

 

I live in New Hampshire. After driving in Boston I was in no mood to deal with this today. I did stop at Sears to check their collection of Impact drivers or electric impact wrenches. The guy had just sold his last impact driver that you hit with a hammer. The electric ones were all to spendy and did not look like they would fit in the small space. I did pick up a 10mm socket that would fit my big wrench.

I don't weld.

MayKevin5 - I like the mod in the picture. I will admit Toyotas selection of this style plug is not very handyman friendly - seems geared towards technicians with better tools and a lift. If that plug is magnetic than I would think its perfect for both plugs.

I may have some time for this tomorrow. Snow is moving in again and I'm doing this in a driveway. If the second attempt fails I'll swallow my pride and find some professional help - It won't be the first time.

 

With the help of the suggestions here and the warm weather today I was able to get the drain plug loose. I used the ramps which gave me a lot more room to work with. I then hammered in the hex key. I tried to grab it with my big ratchet handle, but there was not enough clearance without using an extensions. But my big breaker bar fit just fine. After that it came loose. The rest of the drain and fill went by the book, with the exception that I put a new plug in.