How to Change a CV Axle on an 01-04 ADD Tacoma

jmmanahan · May 4, 2014

Thanks for this great step by step process. I changed out my CV axle yesterday with no problems. Popped out of the diff just fine and snapped back in with one hammer blow. All good and no more ugly scraping noises from the front end.

jgb8743 · Sep 3, 2014

If one were to damage that thin metal lip that meets up to the oil seal in the process of prying out the shaft, is there a place or part number to replace it? I managed to mangle mine, and now the seal won't stop leaking no matter what. The only way I've found to replace it is to get a whole new shaft.

Trowbocop · Mar 20, 2016

Sub'd, looking to do this soon. Nice write up!

c_mcnally · Aug 13, 2016

Great write up. I have a few "dumb" questions as I'm kind of a newb. I have everything taken apart and the new axels for both driver and passenger side.

Is there a difference between the axels? I can't see one, but I don't want to make a mistake.

When putting the axels back in, is there a proper position (top vs bottom) when putting them back in? My factory ones were round and the new ones are more of a triangle. I'm guessing no diff on this, but wanted to ask.

Should I put some axel grease on both ends of the axels when putting them back, or just the differential side?

My seals look good, but I feel like I should replace them just to be safe. There is a seal on the differential and on the wheel side right? Does anyone have the part numbers or suggestions on what to buy?

If I'm taking the seals out should I just replace the bearings too?

I follow directions well, I just don't have a ton experience to know what's right. Thanks for the help.

wilcam47 · Aug 23, 2016

jmmanahan said: ↑

Thanks for this great step by step process. I changed out my CV axle yesterday with no problems. Popped out of the diff just fine and snapped back in with one hammer blow. All good and no more ugly scraping noises from the front end.
Click to expand...

I wonder if this is whats wrong with my truck? So in reference to the 4 bolts that hold the hub piece to the lower control arm. I should be able to take that apart without messing with the struts?

quetzal · Oct 12, 2016

.

DustStorm4x4 · Jan 19, 2017

This write up is much appreciated. Just swapped the passenger side with a friend.

Not sure why but the 12mm socket for the screws under the spindle were 14mm for my truck. Same with the 36mm for the cotter pin nut was a 35mm.

jaunty · Jan 21, 2017

yeah mine are 14mm. . doing a cv shaft today.

anybody notice that none of the aftermarket cv axles (autzone duralast and napa) have wheel bearing dust shields (abs ring)? Is the only way to get a proper replacement by paying for toyota OEM parts? ($173 vs 55)

as it turns out the napa new part has the shield, the remanufactured part does not.

hortona · Feb 10, 2017

Nice write up first of all how did you guys put in the new axle seal,I got a seal installing kit but it didn't seem like it worked for that type of seal..Second after replacing my CV axle I realized when rotating the tire there's a sticky spot where the tire seems to be harder to turn could this be due to my 3 inch lift.. thanks

BThorson · Jun 18, 2017

Nice write up just did this today very easy to do following this.

flatblack · Aug 18, 2017

those who've had the issue of the swaybar not allowing you room to remove the axle: was it as easy as removing the sway bar? my sway bar mount on the LCA looks like it'd get in the way, even with the bar gone.
saw a youtube video of a fella doing this on a manual hub 98; he ended up unbolting the shock to get his out. is this necessary?

BThorson · Aug 22, 2017

flatblack said: ↑

those who've had the issue of the swaybar not allowing you room to remove the axle: was it as easy as removing the sway bar? my sway bar mount on the LCA looks like it'd get in the way, even with the bar gone.
saw a youtube video of a fella doing this on a manual hub 98; he ended up unbolting the shock to get his out. is this necessary?
Click to expand...

I got the swaybar disconnected on the driver side but the passenger side the link would not loosen the nut was froze onto it. I ended up keeping it on when I changed it. It was a tight fit but doable

04Burk · Feb 6, 2018

Excellent write up. Will be changing mine on my 04 4x4 next month. Will come back and post results.

Cid · Jun 17, 2018

A few years late but thanks for the write up. Blown CV boot so I'm just gonna replace the axle then maybe throw a new boot on the old one for a backup.

MAX TACO · Aug 5, 2018

GOT MINE OE 345.00 EACH......... TOYOTA

Tacoman100 · Oct 2, 2019

JimBeam[OP] initial post: ↑

Here’s my little writeup on how to change a CV axle on a 01-04 ADD Tacoma

Tools required:
36mm Socket
Breaker bar or Air-gun
Small chisel or sharp strong screwdriver
Rubber mallet
Metric socket set
Jack
Jackstands
Small or needlenose pliers

Step 1
Jack up the front side of the truck where you’ll be changing the axle. Be sure to NOT jack on the control arm as you’ll need that to have a smidge of play in it later

Step 2
Remove tire/wheel/skid plate

Trust me on the skidplate – ESPECIALLY if you have aftermarket skids

Usually I like to place the tire underneath the front of the truck so that God-forbid the jack/jackstands fail the truck doesn’t crash completely to earth. I chose NOT to do this during this axle change. I also did not use jackstands as I was unable to locate mine. I did however use 2 jacks for that just-in-case factor

Step 3
Once you’ve removed the wheel, you’ll see a black metal cap at the center of the hub
You’ll want to remove this carefully so as not to booger up the edge too badly because we’re going to reuse this. The best way to remove it is with a chisel or sharp screwdriver. I used a small chisel and a rubber mallet and it popped right off

Step 4
Once you’ve removed the black dust cap from the hub assembly, you’ll see a large nut and a cotter pit and quite possibly a cotter pin lock? Im actually not sure what you call it but it’s the green thing in my picture

Remove the cotter pin and cotter pin lock and then using a 36mm socket and a breaker bar or air gun (what I prefer) remove the large nut. This can get a bit tricky as the hub will want to spin while you unscrew the nut. It’s handy to have a 2nd pair of hands to help you but I wasn’t so fortunate today. I angled a screwdriver between 2 of the studs and braced the hub from spinning while removing the nut with the air gun.

Step 5
Once you’ve removed the cotter pin and nut, move around to the backside of the hub assembly and disconnect the 4 screws holding the spindle to the lower ball joint. There are 2 at the front and 2 at the back. IIRC this is a 12mm socket.

In my picture, I’ve already removed the bolts but the arrows are pointing to where they were.

Step 6
Pull the spindle out and separate it from the cv axle. It should slide out fairly easily but you may have to bump it slightly to get it to separate. Swing the spindle around to the backside towards the cab of the truck.

Step 7
Remove CV from diff. This is probably the most difficult and time consuming part of the change. You’ll need a prybar (preferably a skinny one). There is a lip on the CV next to the diff that you can use to pop the CV out. Use the prybar to pop the CV loose. You’ll know when it pops free. It’s held in there by a little c-ring around the end of the axle (denoted by the GREEN arrow in the picture below, with the lip marked with RED arrow).

Now that you’ve successfully pried the CV out of the diff, you’ll probably lose a little bit of gear oil…no biggie…it shouldn’t be that much. If you lose a lot be sure to add some.

Step 8
Now you’re ready to slide the new CV in. This can also be tricky because you have to line up the splines, but just keep trying and turning it till it slides part of the way in. It will more than likely stop before going all the way in. Using the prybar and rubber mallet, gently tap it all the way into the diff. The c-ring will lock it in once it gets in there good.

Step 9
Bring the spindle/hub assembly back around to where it should be and push the end of the CV thru it. Once again be sure to line up the splines as you don’t want to booger those up in any way. This should slide most of the way thru with no problems.

Step 10
Button up the spindle to the lower ball joint/control arm with the 4 bolts you removed previously

Step 11
Put the large nut onto the CV axle and tighten down. Place cotter pin lock onto the CV axle and then push cotter pin thru the hole to finish locking the CV in. Check the backside of the hub where the CV joint meets the hub to make sure it’s seated properly. There’s a gasket and lip there that should meet flush with the hub assembly.

Step 12
Using the rubber mallet, gently tap the dust cap back into place. Replace skid plates, tire/wheel. Lower jacks. Recheck lugs on the wheel. Take her for a test drive!

[FONT=&quot]That’s it. Pretty easy DIY. It took me about 2 hours including gathering my tools and putting them away.[/FONT]
Click to expand...

Sorry to wake up an old thread, but are there any pieces that I’ll need to re-use for the new assembly? I’m only buying the barebones CVs with no extra accessories.

Also anyone recommend any good branded CV axles and where to buy ’em?

2001 Tacoma

Trowbocop · Oct 3, 2019

Tacoman100 said: ↑

Sorry to wake up an old thread, but are there any pieces that I’ll need to re-use for the new assembly? I’m only buying the barebones CVs with no extra accessories.

Also anyone recommend any good branded CV axles and where to buy ’em?

2001 Tacoma
Click to expand...

Every part goes back where it came from on re-install, except the cv axle itself- you re-use everything.

I replaced mine with Toyota remanufactured cvs 4 years ago & have done plenty of wheeling since then, & they've held up great. They'll give you $ for your blown cvs so they can rebuild and sell them afterward.

Good luck!

Tacoman100 · Oct 3, 2019

Trowbocop said: ↑

Every part goes back where it came from on re-install, except the cv axle itself- you re-use everything.

I replaced mine with Toyota remanufactured cvs 4 years ago & have done plenty of wheeling since then, & they've held up great. They'll give you $ for your blown cvs so they can rebuild and sell them afterward.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

what’s a good place to pick up these reman CVs? Would they give me money for CVs that are not OEMs?
Thinking of grabbing the autozone versions

Trowbocop · Oct 3, 2019

Tacoman100 said: ↑

what’s a good place to pick up these reman CVs? Would they give me money for CVs that are not OEMs?
Thinking of grabbing the autozone versions
Click to expand...

Any Toyota dealership should have them, but call around, as prices differ. Mine were original on the truck, so, I'm not sure about non-toyota parts

SemperInMotu · Jul 22, 2020

Great writeup- mine are popping every time I turn the corner, so that's on the list of stuff to fix.

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