Bed bolt issue!

Nice!

I need some swivel!

 

Anyone know the bolt size for these? Wondering if this would work:

$15 DC Cargo V-Ring Tie-Down Anchors |4 Pack | 2" Diameter Steel Bolt-on D-Rings for Cargo on Trucks, Pickups, Trailers |Flush Mount Tie-Down Anchor, Replacement for D-Ring Tie-Down w/Plastic Pan Fitting

https://www.amazon.com/DC-Cargo-Mall-Replacement-Warehouses/dp/B01CGXSNC0/

Way cheaper than the $40 for the 4 you would need from Toyota.

 

These are the ones that I used:
http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/hardware/tie-downs/military-issue-vehicle-cargo-tie-down.html

The fastener hole is countersunk, but is heavy duty and works great.

Recommended here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-tie-downs.521184/page-4#post-16609300

I believe the bed bolts are M12.

 

Bed bolts are threaded M12 X 1.25 pitch. I just finished installing tie-down D rings in my '16, using of course the same OEM style D rings from Amazon. I wanted mine to swivel easily, so found the right size steel bushing and ground it so it would press-fit thru the bolt hole in the D ring (removed the plastic isolator thing) and the original bed bolt would just have clearance thru the bushing. Of course, I made it just long enough so the bolt would tighten down on the bushing/washer allowing me to properly torque the bolt and still have easy swiveling. The washer tended to dimple inwards though, so I put a grade 8 washer under the original washer, against the bed floor which allowed me to tighten the bolt without deforming the washer. Since the Bolt head is so broad, I clearanced the D ring mount tab so the head would not interfere against it which would have also prevented swiveling. Final results looks like it was meant to be there from the factory.
PB blaster penetrating fluid from below the bed on the exposed bolt threads prior to removal, and grease on the threads before reinstallation. Likely one at a time I would have removed all the bed bolts and greased them, but it was too hot and sunny to work outside. Hey, it's Hawaii.

 

The threads on the bolt are rolled on after the washer is in place. Rolled threads are easy to spot. They are a larger diameter than the bolt shank, and are much stronger than cut threads because there are no stress risers from the threads being cut INTO the bolt body.

Slit the washer with a hacksaw or Dremel tool and twist the ends in opposite directions until it comes free. Forcing it over the threads wrecks the threads.

 

No.... tchek this video ... you need a socket and hammer
https://youtu.be/7JnO1I8hNs8