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Power sliding window mod info thread

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by excorcist, Jan 6, 2017.

  1. Aug 23, 2017 at 11:13 PM
    #161
    7ender

    7ender Well-Known Member

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  2. Nov 25, 2017 at 3:48 PM
    #162
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    Anyone do this in an access cab.
     
  3. Nov 25, 2017 at 4:03 PM
    #163
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    Also, any advice on what to look for in a motor besides cable operation.?
     
  4. Nov 28, 2017 at 9:21 PM
    #164
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    Just ordered a Sienna switch, razzers to the two others who were caught looking. I think I can braze/drill/tap some 1/8" x 1/2" metal(brass or steel) to make the brackets(need one for the shell as well). I might see about mounting the actuator for the shell window above the opening. Anyone put the switch in the armrest with the other window controls?
     
    excorcist[OP] likes this.
  5. Nov 28, 2017 at 10:09 PM
    #165
    excorcist

    excorcist [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Your going to do two separate motors / brackets for your rear slider and your shell slider?

    Interesting idea about using the armrest for a mounting point for the switch, I have a double cab so I don't believe there is anymore room for switches.
     
  6. Nov 29, 2017 at 9:15 AM
    #166
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    That's the idea anyway. Still early in the design stage so several options are on the table. I'm looking for 3 particular features in a regulator assembly, 2 rollers(some have just one with a fixed curved guide at the other end), dual spring cable stops(again some only have them on one of the cable housing stops), and lastly, wires terminating in a plug rather than an integrated plug so I can provide my own plug disconnect. The first feature is probably the least important.

    Since the windows already slide in a track the one that comes with the regulator is somewhat redundant, all that's really needed are the pulleys and even they can be eliminated if the cable housings are routed with a large enough bend radius. Eliminating the track is a big part of making this more feasible for an AC since there's less space between the sheet metal exterior and the plastic panel. Long enough cables/housings to mount the motor down at the level of the under seat cubbies is another. Doing that might require the use of Teflon coated cables and Teflon housing sleeves to minimize drag in the longer runs.

    I still have some studying to do on switch wiring to see what motors are most compatible with the sienna switch as well but using a relay should provide ample current to drive two motors.
     
    excorcist[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  7. Nov 29, 2017 at 9:06 PM
    #167
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    Fwiw if this can be done in an AC you could probably swap in a DC master window switch control panel and use the rear window switches for the cab and shell sliders. I just checked and since the AC has just the front row window switches, lock, and passenger controls lock there's room for a switch behind them. When it arrives I'll see if the Sienna switch can be mounted there cleanly otherwise I'll use one of the 5 empty spots left of the steering wheel. One advantage to having nothing is there's plenty of room for more shit.
     
  8. Feb 18, 2018 at 2:03 PM
    #168
    atebit

    atebit What's all this, then?

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    So, is there a DIY for this? Seems complicated enough to justify vs trying to price it together across ~170 messages in the thread
     
  9. Feb 18, 2018 at 2:08 PM
    #169
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 ToyotaHubs

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    Rear Sliding Window

    84810-0C090


    82998-24290 JPN



    82998-12790 JPN


     
    bobsuruncle, stvhwrd, lo2hi and 2 others like this.
  10. Feb 18, 2018 at 9:14 PM
    #170
    atebit

    atebit What's all this, then?

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    Thanks for the parts list. Maybe their’ll be a DIY someday...
     
  11. Feb 18, 2018 at 10:46 PM
    #171
    duckytw

    duckytw Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have tips on how to connect the cables up to the track? Seems they are always too short on o e side or another. I think maybe 2 people... one to toggle the switch and the other to yank out some cable?
     
  12. Feb 19, 2018 at 4:30 AM
    #172
    JdevTac

    JdevTac Well-Known Member

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    I know in my case I actually ran the cables to the window track, and then screwed them tight to the bracket while it was out of the channel. Once I got both sides mounted I then stuck it in the channel. Took a good bit of struggling to do it as a one man show. And this was after I had trimmed the cables to “just” make it to the bracket.
     
  13. Feb 19, 2018 at 2:03 PM
    #173
    duckytw

    duckytw Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I may just do that because I have no idea how the winding mechanism manages to make both ends shorter no matter what I do.
     
  14. Feb 19, 2018 at 5:23 PM
    #174
    JdevTac

    JdevTac Well-Known Member

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    Yeah it’s sort of a crap shoot when there isn’t good tension on the cable ends and your trying to secure it. I had to supplement my setup with 2 cable tensioner like you find on bike brake lines to really dial it in. It will also help with taking out any minor slack down the line as the system breaks in.
     
    Skynet Surfer likes this.
  15. Feb 23, 2018 at 4:14 AM
    #175
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Likely one end is jammed. Probably have to open the spool to fix it and might need to replace the cable if it got kinked as that might make it hinky.
     
  16. Apr 18, 2018 at 12:28 PM
    #176
    bwawuz02

    bwawuz02 Well-Known Member

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    Any idea if these will fit a 2nd gen?
     
  17. Apr 18, 2018 at 1:46 PM
    #177
    ajsabra

    ajsabra Fully locked 3rd gen

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    they will, but you will need to either remove the plastic bins or find 2016 bins
     
  18. May 2, 2018 at 7:24 PM
    #178
    Skynet Surfer

    Skynet Surfer Well-Known Member

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    The 2015 and the 2016 bins are the same.
     
  19. Jul 4, 2018 at 6:45 PM
    #179
    thisnameisnowmine

    thisnameisnowmine Active Member

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    Little confused, I want to do this to my truck. Can you post pics and the part number of the assembly? Is that all you had to purchase to accomplish this?
     
  20. Jan 12, 2020 at 2:01 PM
    #180
    xMaverickx

    xMaverickx Well-Known Member

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    Got a question if someone can answer it. I’m wondering if pin’s 85 and 87 off of the relays can be connected to the same 30A fused battery source, and if 87 needs to be on constant power or if it can be on a switched circuit as well.
     
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