Trailer Build BS+

You should be able to change the hubs to hubs that have the right 6 X 5.5 bolt pattern. Check out e-trailer.com

 

I'm eventually going to do a Lowes 3.5'x5' carry-on utility trailer set up. This thread should come in quite handy.
I watched a youtube vid where an older gent do one on this platform. He wasn't hauling it with a taco so he did nothing related to height.
I'll flip the axles and convert the hubs to a 6 lug taco pattern. I looked at some '16 taco factory rims but the offset would not work without the inside of the rim rubbing on the trailer body. @ $10 ea it's worth looking to the adapter plates instead of the hub switch out but I don't know if roughly 2" will help on the offset. At least I think. I figure the 2k payload on the trailer will be enough for the gear and an eventual RTT.

I want a "modular" trailer I can load Thursday, park at work Friday and leave right out after work for the w/e.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Carry-On-Trailer-3-5-ft-x-5-ft-Wire-Mesh-Utility-Trailer/3680952

 

Do you have a build thread?

 

It’s a bit out dated...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-d00kie-build-and-a-dingleberry.413952/

 

Am I retarded or is something wrong with my brake and hub kit? This is my first time putting a trailer together, sure, but the hub really should just slide on according to all the videos I've seen. Both the brake are hub are 12" diameter and I've researched online that people use these exact parts together fine. The hub lip is hitting the brake shoe instead of going over it.

 

Brakes may just need to be adjusted "in"

 

Something in not seated in right and hung up. Make sure the adjuster is screwed all the way in. Here is mine, drums slide right on.

 

I figured it out. Apparently these brakes get knocked around a lot during shipping and some parts get shifted. There's a notch that holds the rear shoe in place that got dislodged. I had to use a hammer to knock it back in. I scratched up a few areas in doing so so I did a quick coat of black paint on them, too.

 

So I’m gonna revive this thread a bit. I just bought an ‘86 truck bed trailer with some long travel suspension. It’s got a rack (which needs to be shortened) and is basically built, but im wanting to start adding accessories and making it more useful. I’ve already got a water tank. Im just curious what things you all have found are essential to your build?

 

gixxerphil's Tacoma bed camping trailer #concretelander | Tacoma World

 

I've been thinking about building a trailer for awhile now, and the desire to move to an XL size roof top tent finally pushed me over the edge.

I picked up a 4x6 Carry On trailer (Lowes brand) used off FB Marketplace. It was a little rougher than I wanted, but the price fit and it came with the Certificate of Origin, which made registering it much easier.

I welded on new spring seats for a spring over axle lift, upgraded to 205/75/15 tires, sanded and painted the whole thing, and then bought an 800lbs ladder rack from Amazon that I modified to fit the the small trailer size. (Way more work than I initially planned. Wish I had just bought a new trailer to skip the sanding and painting.)

I'm currently looking for a decent way to mount my CVT awning, and some gear (molle?) panels to mount traction boards on one side and a WaterPORT on the other.

Any have a good suggestion for gear attachment panels I can bolt or weld to the two rack uprights on the sides?

I'm also looking for an awning bracket than can mount to a 2" round pipe, as the rack has approximately 6" of a stub I can attach to. I looked at the Compact Trailers adjustable awning rack, but it uses 1.75" square tubing, so I might end up keeping it low with just enough height to sit under for shade.

 

Very nice. How did you connect the lumber rack to the trailer? Brackets or weld?
Also, I would say just get on Amazon and look for a long Molle panel.

 

Kinda what I'm thinking. Just two 40" long molle panels or any gear mount panel would do. They are crazy expensive for what they are though it seems like.

Each tower is just bolted with three grade 8 bolts to the top angle iron of the trailer to keep it removable. This is just build V1 to make sure I liked pulling a trailer behind me every time I camp, so I wanted it to come off easy. Hopefully I can sell it to someone else looking to build something similar when I redo the trailer again. The end goal is to build a locking, water-tight box with slide outs, then a rack for the tent on that, so I tried to keep this test build fairly simple.

The rack towers are sitting over the vertical pieces of angle iron to support the added weight, and I fully welded them to the top rail for some added piece of mind and rigidity. Then the adjoining rack towers both have a smaller diameter pipe inside the two halves to sister them together and then fully welded all the way around so they are super solid.

Corner stabilizing jacks are coming next so I can drop the trailer and leave it setup and use it without being hooked to the truck.

 

I've put in some more hours in the trailer build and have been using it over the last few weekends. Being able to setup camp, be off the ground, and still drive away when needed is a game changer.

This is still V1, but it's proven that I want to invest the time/money to build it better over winter or next year. I built a diesel heater a few months ago, so I'm looking forward to some fall camping!

Stabilizing jacks on all four corners
8ft awning with adjustable mounts (lower than the tent at ride height, over my head at 6'3 when deployed)
47" Prinsu Load Panels that I found used on FB Marketplace