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Sound Deadener Recommendations

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by TXTaco13, Feb 21, 2018.

  1. Feb 21, 2018 at 10:38 PM
    #1
    TXTaco13

    TXTaco13 [OP] Taco/T4R Enthusiast

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    Looking to use sound deadening for a speaker upgrade, possibly a sub, and most importantly to reduce road noise. I have used Dynamat and Second Skin audio products in the past, and am considering Fat Mat this go round. Will be doing the back wall, below seat area, all doors, and eventually the roof. Also wasn't sure if any group buys are going on, I didn't see any though. Thanks for your input.
     
    marinemonkey likes this.
  2. Feb 22, 2018 at 5:53 AM
    #2
    jv_74

    jv_74 Well-Known Member

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  3. Feb 22, 2018 at 8:13 AM
    #3
    TXTaco13

    TXTaco13 [OP] Taco/T4R Enthusiast

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    Yea, dynamat is pricey. I had to use some on my 2nd Gen when I didn't have enough of the stuff from Second Skin Audio. How'd it cut down on road noise?
     
  4. Feb 22, 2018 at 8:15 AM
    #4
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP hates you.

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    DrFunker and TXTaco13[OP] like this.
  5. Feb 22, 2018 at 8:15 AM
    #5
    inwood customs

    inwood customs Roaming potato

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    Used this too.

    Zero smell to it on hot days.

    I suggest using a small space heater to warm each cut panel before installing. Makes it MUCH easier. A heat gun may work too, but my ocilating space heater did a great job.
     
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  6. Feb 22, 2018 at 12:39 PM
    #6
    jv_74

    jv_74 Well-Known Member

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    Well I have KO2's rumbling around, so road noise is always there for me :D

    I will say just doing the 4 doors and rear, when I crank the music and shut all the doors you certainly can't hear much from outside the truck.
     
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  7. Feb 22, 2018 at 8:27 PM
    #7
    RedEmpire

    RedEmpire Well-Known Member

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    In addition to the noico CLD panels, they sell a roll of foam 315 mil on Amazon which will help even more and provide insulation as well. You can do less of the 50 mil inside door skin and against panel as well, then cut out an entire sheet of the foam and lay it over the whole door panel with cutouts for speaker/wire.
     
  8. Feb 22, 2018 at 8:56 PM
    #8
    spread5150

    spread5150 Well-Known Member

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    Just unboxed it. Much to come.
    I went with Stinger Expert Mat. Did the doors and back wall. 100 bucks for the bulk kit on Ebay. No complaints.
     
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    #8
    JKU3000 likes this.
  9. Feb 25, 2018 at 9:50 AM
    #9
    ovrlndkull

    ovrlndkull STUKASFK - HC4LIFE

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    @BravesTaco95 this might be a better place to find your answer.
     
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  10. Feb 25, 2018 at 9:59 AM
    #10
    BravesRunner

    BravesRunner “Exploration is curiosity put into action”

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    How much would I need for just the panel behind the rear seats? Installing a Molle panel in place of the bins.
     
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  11. Feb 25, 2018 at 1:58 PM
    #11
    nway2deep

    nway2deep Well-Known Member

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    Sound Skins FTW
     
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  12. Feb 25, 2018 at 2:05 PM
    #12
    spread5150

    spread5150 Well-Known Member

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    Just unboxed it. Much to come.
    sound skin is good stuff. Just pricy. Stinger mat does the trick. The Bulk kit was more than enough to do the front doors and back wall.
     
  13. Feb 26, 2018 at 9:53 PM
    #13
    RedEmpire

    RedEmpire Well-Known Member

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    All of these products everyone is mentioning are not for controlling sound. They are used to control vibrations (which does control sound to some extremely limited extent, like 1-2 db). You really only need limited coverage with one of these. You can buy enough MLV to do the areas you listed for ~$100 shipped. Keep it in place with velcro after laying down a layer of foam (doors in 3rd gens can just use the plastic and factory stuff as those two will stop the MLV from resonating by itself).

    For the rear wall the CLD tiles and foam can just go over the middle section (between central bar) with MLV also over that section. It will appear flush with bar after install.

    You really can't get any better than that and if you price out products right it will run you 150-200 and sound way better than wasting your time on so called sound deadeners (if you look on some of those links people provided the product itself calls itself vibration dampening material).
     
  14. Feb 27, 2018 at 4:07 AM
    #14
    rob feature

    rob feature Tacos!

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  15. Feb 27, 2018 at 11:31 AM
    #15
    DaMaDo

    DaMaDo Well-Known Member

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  16. Feb 27, 2018 at 11:43 AM
    #16
    TXTaco13

    TXTaco13 [OP] Taco/T4R Enthusiast

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    Check out noico videos on YouTube, I saw some good how to's. I think you put the 50 mil down, and then the foam on top, it should have an adhesive backing. That combo would probably work well for the wall behind your back seats, where most of the road noise comes from.
     
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  17. Feb 27, 2018 at 2:08 PM
    #17
    vietjdmboi

    vietjdmboi Well-Known Member

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  18. Feb 27, 2018 at 3:46 PM
    #18
    RedEmpire

    RedEmpire Well-Known Member

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    Yes put the 50 mil on the inside of the exterior door skin (have to access through cutouts) and cover with foam, When you get to behind the speaker, don't put too much of the foam in that area, aim for an 8X8 inch square. Cover the speaker cutout area on the inside with the 50 mil as well. Put some of the 50 mil on that side of the door as well, aim for around 25 percent coverage and then if you have enough, cover the whole shebang with foam (you can take out or leave the vapor barrier, I left mine in).
     
  19. Feb 28, 2018 at 5:09 AM
    #19
    DaMaDo

    DaMaDo Well-Known Member

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    Thanks RedEmpire

    Is this what you mean?
    deadening.jpg
     
  20. Feb 28, 2018 at 5:20 AM
    #20
    rob feature

    rob feature Tacos!

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    For the most part, closed cell foam is used as a decoupler and thermal insulator. Putting it inside the door cavity won't do much for you. For a full treatment here, you'd wanna use mass loaded vinyl on the entire door panel with the foam over it as a decoupling device. It will also provide thermal insulation. What it won't do is block a lot of noise. It will block some high frequencies, but blocking noise is the job of MLV mostly. If I were gonna use the foam without MLV I'd put it between the door card and inner door skin to help eliminate rattles and get the thermal benefit. The idea here is 100% coverage. And although CCF is compressible, that might be a bit thick for doors. Folks typically use 1/8". I used 1/16", but covered both sides of MLV with that.

    Acoustic foam in the doors is another discussion entirely, but it doesn't seem like that's what we're talking about here. This stuff is closed cell anyway so should be more or less inert other than occupying airspace.
     
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