Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

I hear ya, I just don't want to crank my radio all the time, and have it sound like a window is open when I'm not.

 

Any of those mats does not reduce noise, only vibrations. Go with whatever is cheaper, Noico is good for that. You really need to do a foam/ccf (noico is cheap here as well) over the tiles and then a MLV for at least the rear wall

 

I did the mlv on the back wall in addition to a dampening material in my last tacoma, worked pretty well. Just trying to find a cost effective way to do it, lol. Thanks for the info.

 

CLD:

Noico 50 mil 21.5 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deaden...ie=UTF8&qid=1519505131&sr=8-11&keywords=noico

CCF:

NOICO WP 150 mil 36 sqft car Waterproof Insulation Heat and Cool Liner, Closed Cell PE Foam CCF Self-Adhesive Sound Deadening Material (1/6'' Thick Sound Deadener)

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-waterp...pID=518hOFmf7iL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

MLV - https://www.tmsoundproofing.com/clearance-mass-loaded-vinyl-4x10-1LB.html

Velcro for MLV: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/velcro®-strips

More than enough to do 4 doors and back wall. While you are in there, seal up the edges of the rear vents with silicone or butyl rope. Put some foam (anything you got such as https://www.amazon.com/SOOMJ-Acoust...TF8&qid=1519505611&sr=1-7&keywords=sound+foam) over the vent itself and it well be held in by your MLV or even the factory shit MLV if you leave it in. Exhaust vent will still function, but vehicle will be quieter.

Sound will be reduced and you will actually save money over dynamat which does nothing but control vibrations and make you feel like your car is quieter (due to the 200 dollars spent)

 

That’s what I’ll be doing also. Don’t need no more drama haha

 

What drama are people having with the door locks?

 

Check before you shut and you are good.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/i-cant-open-my-rear-door.534031/

 

OK, yeah if you don't get them clipped back in properly they could probably pop out, or you could put them in backwards also.

 

Just did this install today and although I forgot to take pictures of the install, this speaker upgrade was worth it. The adapters seem cheap but they served their purpose.

 

Doing the tweeter's first, when doing the passenger side pillar with the grab handle, is it different to remove than the drivers side. Video seems to only show the driver side.

 

You don't have to remove the pillars. I know some of the videos show it but I did it without removing them, it's no problem.

 

I removed the driver side pillar but I didn’t remove the passenger side. Worked just fine

 

Completely wrong. There are many posts of people that left the pillars on and have snapped clips on the tweeter panel. Removing the pillar takes 30 seconds and is a much cleaner and safer way of doing it. Disconnect your negative battery terminal, pop the caps on the pillar and its 1 or 2 10mm bolts depending on the side. Not worth the risk when its an extra couple minutes to do it the right way.

 

Removing the A pillars are incredibly easy...and extra minute (or two max) for each side. It is literally 2 bolts on one side, and 1 bolt on the other (plus the plastic tabs that all trim pieces have).

I would imagine you are not saving yourself much time by trying to squeeze out the tweeter cover without breaking any tabs.

 

I don't know about "completely wrong".There are post about not removing the pillars and having no problems. That's where I learned about it because I was set to remove the pillars before I read you didn't have to. I and many others have done it and it was very simple.

 

I went with the Kicker KS series (supposed to be one level higher than CS and costs more) instead of the CS series because when I listened to them in the store, the KS had less fatiguing highs (silk tweeter) and clearer mids; however, when I installed it in my truck (off the factory deck) there was no bass at all. I panned back and forth and the factory speakers had more bass. This seems odd since they have the same sensitivity as the CS series. Based on all the glowing reviews of the CS series in this thread saying the CS series has some bass, I am perplexed. I am not expecting subwoofer like bass, but I have owned aftermarket 6x9's before and was expecting at least a little. At the moment I am wondering if the Entune Plus deck has less power than the Entune Premium and therefore cannot push the speakers enough to get any bass out of them or if it is just the speakers. I am going to try the CS ones as well and see if there is any difference. I did notice one odd thing. The passenger side has much less bass output than the driver's side regardless of whether the speakers are factory or the Kicker KS even with the balance centered so I am not sure how much that is affecting things

The tweeters on the other hand were a worthy upgrade and easy to install so thanks to OP!

 

Which speakers did you install (front, rear and tweeter)?

 

I noticed the lack of bass as well. The factory head unit does not have enough power. The doors and tweeters are wired in parrallel as well, so there is power loss there as well. Really need an AMP. After a week or so of break in, I did notice more bass, but still need an amp.

 

@muddywater most people seem disappointed with speakers that don't have entune system that comes on trd trims. There's a note in the OP that suggest it, your experience seems to validate that thought.

Excuse to get a subwoofer

 

They also show that these 6 3/4 fit (Kicker 43CSC674, 6-3/4" 2-way car speakers).