geekhouse23's "LIFE'S WAITING TO BEGIN" Overland & Home build and all the Adventures in between!

Will do man! I will have to talk with @G.T. to see if his schedule would allow Austin to make a template.

 

Caitlyn is home safe and sound from surgery!

 

About time! What took you so long? Just kidding man it looks awesome.

 

I know right???

I wasn't asking the right people..that's what the problem was

 

Update on the rear bumper:

Called the powdercoater this morning as they told me it would take a week and it's been two and a half weeks as of today. No issues. The shop that does the powdercoating for their bigger items should be coming by today or tomorrow to pick up the bumper for blasting. After that, coating takes one day according to the PC'er. I guess that's pretty quick?

I just want the bumper back now after the front is finished up and looking great. Kind of upset that it's not the one week I was promised, but I guess it's the busy season for them and I understand.

Anywho, pacifiers anyone??

 

We are having a mod day at my place this Saturday, I’ll let him know so he can come over if he’s free to make one for you.

 

Cool man thanks! Let me know

 

So, much like my DIY CO2 setup thread, I figured I would put together a list of everything needed if you are buying/installing a Pelfreybilt bumper either new or second hand. Some are optional and not entirely needed, however, they are, what I feel, will make the installation go smoothly (TBD).

Here is the list and links:

- Replacement hardware set from Pelfreybilt (optional) - not necessary if buying new, but this was needed for second-hand purchase; just email Satin

- Flip up license plate bracket - I think these come with a new bumper

Pilot FLP001 License Plate Flip Kit For Roll Pan

LINK

- Reverse lights - Mine came with the purchase of the bumper second-hand (Rigid SR-M diffused flush mount)

- Stainless hardware for the Bushwackers (optional) - I will be drilling new holes in the beside in order to attach the Bushwackers securely after the installation LINK - 50 is needed for full front and rear Bushwackers

- Weather stripping adhesive for the bedside after you hack up the rear in order for the bumper to fit - both are NOT necessary, but, I will be doing a comparison of the two LINK1 LINK2

- Toyota trailer harness (optional) - since my stock one was hacked up to relocate to my stock bumper, I needed a new one. I think the other option is a Ridgeline harness that is cheaper, but needs to be spliced in no link, but here is a link for the Toyota harness. Pricing seems to fluctuate (I paid $135 shipped) but this will give you the part number to do a little searching for yourself to find a better price LINK

- Skil Laser level (optional) - I plan on using the following install method to make sure that everything fits well and properly:

Installation LINK
Skil Laser level LINK

- Bedside edge trim (Price Pending) - Trail Toys has this for sale in their store, but if you have a super cool TW friend like I do, they can send you the same thing for free (hence 'Price Pending') LINK

Miscellaneous:

- Drop Trailer ball hitch (optional) - price depends on what your budget is and there are cheaper options. I went with a drop 10" because of the shackle flip and potentially going to 35" but if you have 33's and no shackle flip, go with an 8" drop

Andersen Hitches 10in Alumistinger Ball Mount (10" Drop, 9" Rise)

LINK

- Rigid harness extension (optional) - I purchased this because I needed the female connectors for the flush mount lights LINK

- Gorilla wheel locks - I just wanted a clean way of securing the spare tire

$18 Gorilla Automotive 71631NBC Acorn Black Chrome Wheel Locks (12mm x 1.50 Thread Size) Pack of 4

LINK

-Bitches be trippin' - the wife

 

He was out of town all weekend, I’ll swing by after dialysis today.

 

Anyone local wanna do me a favor?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bedslide-for-5ft-bed-nashville-tn.536397/#post-17259469

I would pay a reasonable delivery fee..

St. Patrick's day is soon @ChandlerDOOM (totally kidding)

 

Still just waiting for the powdercoater to get back to me getting pretty annoyed at this point:

1) lead time was one week; it's been 3-4 weeks
2) pricing changed twice now since I dropped it off.

Getting worried that it will be shit quality and might have to be redone. I guess we will find out. Not getting my hopes up.

Started a science experiment last night:





So far:

CA thick - strong hold; white residue a little like that of super glue. Wipes off with a damp rag.

3M - okay hold; maluable and didn't seem to set that well?

It's been 24 hours only. Biggest concerns about the CA thick is the paint. I want to see how it affects that. So far, no issues. I might have to read the directions again on the 3M stuff. Not sure why that isn't setting.

 

What about some RTV? That 3M looks like almost the same stuff, or supposed to be.

Permatex Ultra Black Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker is sweet

 

I've used that moulding several times without adhesive. Just tap it in place with a rubber mallet. It has always stayed in place. If it comes loose it could always be glued later.

 

The 3m is like a rubber or contact cement, it will never get rock solid it will remain somewhat plyable but holds really well.

With the 3m if a piece of trim gets damaged you can replace it without damaging the metal.

 

ANy issues on the highway? I.e. higher speeds is the concern

Valid point.

 

I used it on three different projects.

1 was edging cut fenderson a Jeep Xj belonging to a friend. It's been above 80mph (that I witnessed) No issues.

2 was on fenders of a trailer I owned. 5 years + towing at highway speeds. Never a problem.

3 is around a tool box lid on my old. DODGE pick up...200k miles...never an issue.

To be honest, this is the only time I have ever heard gluing referenced regarding use of this product. It may be as simple as simply trying it without glue...with the option of doing so later if there is a problem.

 

Sounds good. I did some testing without gluing/cement and it does hold very well on its own. Great stuff to be honest.

 

Once it's seated, it can be rather difficult to remove even without use of glue. I tap it in place with a rubber mallet once it's fit and installed.

 

What’s up y’all. Awesome build @geekhouse23 Is this molding specifically shaped for this thickness metal/plastic? And you’re putting it on the cut bedsides right?