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utroda's Tacoma (LT, Lckd, 35s) & FJ40 Build (In Progress)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by utroda, Jan 25, 2016.

  1. Feb 24, 2018 at 7:33 PM
    #541
    NorthwestCruiser

    NorthwestCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Custom 3 link, 40's etc..
    Going to sand blast the frame and tub or just clean it up?
     
  2. Feb 24, 2018 at 7:35 PM
    #542
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    we'll clean it up and sandblast it. Thinking of using steel-it on the frame instead of powder coating.
     
  3. Feb 24, 2018 at 8:43 PM
    #543
    velillen

    velillen Well-Known Member

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    Man that thing has so many original parts. Unusual to see one in that good of shape and actually having all the pieces lol. And to not have any weird stuff done by previous owners!

    Fastest and easiest way I found for the rivets was to just pop the tops off with a cutting/grinding wheel and either a hammer and punch or a air hammer.
     
  4. Feb 24, 2018 at 8:47 PM
    #544
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    If the original odometer was correct it only had 80k on it. We were shocked of well of shape it was in. Never fully know on the frame because you can't see everything, but once we got it clear it looks good. Hit it from end to end with 8lb sledge and didn't move. Tub looked really nice too only rust spot is on the back by the drive barn door should be a easy fix.
     
  5. Feb 24, 2018 at 8:52 PM
    #545
    velillen

    velillen Well-Known Member

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    Not sure I've ever seen one without some sort of rust on the rear sill. Definitely not one of Toyotas best signs. Thankfully it's also quick and easy to fix too.

    I was surprised on mines frame too. One I started blasting it, I was surprised how much of the original undercoating was still on there though. Seems like as long as you aren't in the salt areas, the undercoating did a good job of protecting things.
     
    utroda[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  6. Feb 24, 2018 at 8:55 PM
    #546
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    For real, I feel so bad for people that have to deal with that. Just watching your investment rot away from under you.

    What's your plans for the cruiser?
     
  7. Feb 24, 2018 at 9:06 PM
    #547
    velillen

    velillen Well-Known Member

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    Right now I feel like the plan is never have time to work on it lol.

    But nothing fancy. Just a pretty simple resto-mod type deal. Keep it somewhat original but add a few things. Power steering, aux fuel tank, itll have a Chevy 283 for the time being. OME ~2" lift leaf springs. Outside of that itll stay pretty original.

    Luckily I have a 76' so it came with front disc brakes or I'd be doing those.

    The tub is almost done. Bit more work on the rear quarters, have to add the fuel tank fill necks and the one for the aux tank, remove a bunch of broken bolts, then just some minor stuff at the dash area. (most noteably straining where the upper dash pad goes)
    full_8ee046fb72e8c61d89a3b19298a04a6b488c5832.jpg
     
  8. Feb 24, 2018 at 9:22 PM
    #548
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Looks like some nice sheet metal work going on. our garage is so cold we've had to wait like 4 months now to start working on it. Ran the propane heater for 20 minutes to get it somewhat warm before we started. You should get a build thread going to we can follow along
     
  9. Feb 24, 2018 at 9:38 PM
    #549
    velillen

    velillen Well-Known Member

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    Don't be fooled they are just replacement panels. No way I have the skill to make them myself (or the tools for that matter). Was kind of a bummer as the old rear quarters were actually in good shape minus the previous owner had cut the opening and added ugly ass rubber fender things.

    The garage heat was my problem last winter too. Was too cold to work. but I added two heaters out there so it actually stays reasonable now. I just need time at this point....once Im off 12's and back on dayshift I should be able to progress it quite a bit.

    I actually have a build thread for it....just lazy at updating it. guess I should do that since work is fing slow tonight
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vels-slow-1976-fj40-restomod.457927/
     
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  10. Feb 25, 2018 at 5:54 PM
    #550
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well today we were able to source the new motor and trans.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Chevy 350 with a TBI out of a 89 Yukon and a TH350 transmission.

    Now on the hunt for axles.
     
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  11. Feb 25, 2018 at 6:09 PM
    #551
    velillen

    velillen Well-Known Member

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    belt driven compressor too?
     
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  12. Feb 25, 2018 at 6:11 PM
    #552
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yeah, has an aux AC unit coverted to air compressor. I was originally going to do that in the tacoma but then got a good deal on an ARB.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2018
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  13. Feb 25, 2018 at 6:14 PM
    #553
    NorthwestCruiser

    NorthwestCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Well shit that was quick!
     
  14. Feb 25, 2018 at 6:41 PM
    #554
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ha yeah, can't pass up a good deal. Going to swap out the TBI for a holley sniper setup.
     
  15. Feb 27, 2018 at 6:05 PM
    #555
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    40 Update - just made a deal on a set of 05 super duty axles. should be here monday-tuesday next week!
     
  16. Mar 3, 2018 at 7:36 PM
    #556
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got to check out the donor truck this morning as it got in from oregon, someone had a bad day. Should have the axles out in a couple of days.

    [​IMG]

    Got the frame up on a box to finishing getting it all stripped down.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Got the rest of the hard lines off, and all the shit unbolted. Started cutting down rivets going to take a couple of days to get them all drilled out. Also picked up a needle scaler this morning which worked great to get all of the big chunks of crap off of the frame. I'll come back and hit it with a wire wheel after everything is cut off and the frame should be good to go to start getting things back together.
     
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  17. Mar 17, 2018 at 7:38 PM
    #557
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    IMG_0397.jpg
    Got the axles today. Took a bit of time to clean up and make some room. Now just have to get axles all stripped down and order a few more parts before we start putting it all together.
     
  18. Jun 11, 2018 at 3:00 PM
    #558
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Small taco update, got my misalignment spacers in from TC, and new FK uni-balls to replace the lowers. Turned out to be a bit of a pain because the tapered part of my spacer broke off and was stuck. Had to modify a sawzall blade to make some cuts and punch the piece out.


    This is the new lower spacer, but just to show the tapered part:
    IMG_0540.jpg

    Cut the blade and knocked it out:
    IMG_0541.jpg IMG_0542.jpg


    After getting this out and the new ones in decided to load up and head on a 6 hour drive over to Idaho for the weekend to check out some area around McCall and Boise.

    IMG_0558.jpg
     
  19. Jun 11, 2018 at 7:38 PM
    #559
    bobsuruncle

    bobsuruncle PhD in voiding warranties

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    ARB bull bumper Warn XD9000 Icon 2.5 EXT Road Armor rear bumper Archive Garage shackle flip FJ/T4R tcase 4.30 gears Dirty5’s T4R rear axle swap w/disc brakes New frame from Toyota under EWP
    Did you put any antiseize on them when reinstalling? Mine where a mofo when I replaced both lower and upper uniballs.

    Did you end up making a press tool?
     
  20. Jun 11, 2018 at 7:54 PM
    #560
    utroda

    utroda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I put antiseize on them when I reinstalled.

    I didn't make a tool, I guess I should have said punched them out, not pressed.

    The end breaking off was kinda of a weird and wasn't excepting that because I was trying to replace them before a road trip. I got the uniballs out really easy just using a ball joint puller until it was tight then just tapping it with a hammer. It would move about 1/4" then you could just easily tap it out. Didn't need to remove the LCA.
     

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