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New Guy, Old Toyota 2nd Head Gasket

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Hogwaller, Feb 24, 2018.

  1. Feb 24, 2018 at 7:11 AM
    #1
    Hogwaller

    Hogwaller [OP] Member

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    Hi all just like the title says. 97 Tacoma 2wd 2.4 head gasket blew again . 1st time was around 150,000 now almost 200,000.i had a trusted local shop do it the 1st time but I think I may do it this time.
    I have found some info on here but nothing with specs for putting it all back together I'm missing somewhere I guess. any tips or tricks will certainly be appreciated.
     
    JayRolla likes this.
  2. Feb 24, 2018 at 7:13 AM
    #2
    JayRolla

    JayRolla Well-Known Member

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    Colorado Springs
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    Trd stickers for 10whp 32s on MK6 17s
    My input will be use only oem Toyota parts when do the replacement. Most likely why the other failed prematurely.
     
  3. Feb 24, 2018 at 7:27 AM
    #3
    Hogwaller

    Hogwaller [OP] Member

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    I bought Toyota gaskets and head bolts the 1st time,head was resurfaced to.
     
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  4. Feb 24, 2018 at 7:43 AM
    #4
    JayRolla

    JayRolla Well-Known Member

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    Trd stickers for 10whp 32s on MK6 17s
    Damn. Can't do any better than that.
     
  5. Feb 24, 2018 at 7:59 AM
    #5
    Hogwaller

    Hogwaller [OP] Member

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    lol That's what I thought. May be a head this time trying to stay positive.
     
  6. Feb 24, 2018 at 6:39 PM
    #6
    Markcal

    Markcal Well-Known Member

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    Have you had it tested to make sure it's the head gasket that is bad?
     
  7. Feb 24, 2018 at 7:23 PM
    #7
    stefanlg55

    stefanlg55 Toyota Master Technician

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    If i remember the those Tacoma's have timing chains and you cannot resurface the cylinder heads because it will cause the timing chain to have slack in it and throw the timing off slightly, causing issues for long term durability. sounds like a head gasket job again with a new cylinder head. when you shave the cylinder heads on a chain motor you increase cylinder pressures which the heads and gaskets are not designed for.
     
  8. Feb 25, 2018 at 5:42 AM
    #8
    Hogwaller

    Hogwaller [OP] Member

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    No I haven't had it tested may try to pull it today. it does have a timing chain but I didn't have the head shaved just resurfaced I don't think that would raise the compression that much don't know for sure.
     
  9. Feb 26, 2018 at 2:33 AM
    #9
    lvs2rock

    lvs2rock Well-Known Member

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    N. Cali
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    I have a few thoughts on your situation that might be relevant... (I am currently in the last stages of a long, drawn-out head replacement etc on my 96 4cyl :the valves were so far out of spec I pulled the head & took it to the machine shop to have it rebuilt-problem was, valves/guts were good but head had hairline cracks in cylinders). If it's not too late (if you haven't pulled the head) do a compression check FIRST. The results will give you a better idea of what's going on in your engine than any other thing you can easily do....
    If you've already started a tear-down you might want to consider getting a new (OEM!) 'timing kit', including timing cover gaskets, tensioner, front crank oil seal, chain, crank and cam sprockets (gears) and (x2) chain guides. At 200000 miles chances are yours are fairly worn. -my odo reads 205k, actual mileage probably closer to 225k. My chain had at least 1/2" stretch and gears had noticeable wear, this will make a difference in long-term results along the lines of what stefanlg55 was saying in post #7, above. Oh yeah, get a kit that includes a water pump. IIRC when I priced them the ones that included a w.p. were about $30 more than the kits without. But retail prices for a 'cheapie' aftermarket non-oem water pump start at around $80 locally-kicking myself _hard_ for not taking that option.
    And you will probably need new fuel injector 'cups' ( brittle plastic spacers that sit inside the cyl head that the fuel injectors nest inside) -they're not included in 'valve grind' gasket kits and are seldom re-usable.
    ...and, if you do go the new timing kit route, be aware that you'll need to remove the crank pulley/bolt so will need to make, buy, or borrow a specialised tool to do it-removal is 'doable' (or so it is said) without the tool but re-assembly requires just under 200 ft-lbs of torque and is not something you want to play around with 'close enough'.
    man, I could go on (and on, and ....) but better not. There are many smarter, more experienced people here who could do a better job helping you than I can. I've definitely benefited, and am grateful, for their help! That being said, pm me if there's something you think I could help you with. And good luck.
     
  10. Feb 27, 2018 at 3:55 PM
    #10
    Hogwaller

    Hogwaller [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the replys. I didn't get to start on it yet sat was a bust and I had my plate full sun. maybe this weekend.
     
  11. Feb 27, 2018 at 4:03 PM
    #11
    Hogwaller

    Hogwaller [OP] Member

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    If the head is good or cleans up good how could I tell if I need a different head gasket other than OEM.
     

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